Smelt like something burning? Car wont start now?

[Trevor-DOHC]

Hi guys i think i have a unique problem if you ask me.

OK so last night i went to start my car it was running fine when all the sudden i smelt like a burning or big time short out. Was more like welding smell. But now it will not start it will turn over no engine light? has anybody had the same problem ever? checked the ECU not the prob? Something FRIED?

Any ideas? Thanks sorry if this has been posted already. please get back ASAP

 

[gofer]

Hi guys i think i have a unique problem if you ask me.

OK so last night i went to start my car it was running fine when all the sudden i smelt like a burning or big time short out. Was more like welding smell. But now it will not start it will turn over no engine light? has anybody had the same problem ever? checked the ECU not the prob? Something FRIED?

Any ideas? Thanks sorry if this has been posted already. please get back ASAP

How did you check your ECU, sniff and visual? Check your fuses and treat it like a normal no start... Spark, Fuel, Timing, Compression.

 

[toofast82]

If your key is in the ON position and there is NO cel, you're ecu is fried for a quick check.
If you smelled the burning inside the car and the described smell would be symptoms of a bad ecu
Because you have a 1g, its a pretty definite possibility the ecu's capacitors will leak if not replaced already.
My advice, if you can wait is to send the ecu into "steve" or "jeffo" to have checked for ecu board damage, even if you don't see any obvious damage

 

[Trevor-DOHC]

OK well i checked every known fuse I could with a tester. Toar out the ECU did a basic Sniff & Visual seems to be fine. Was aware of the Capacitors on the 1st Gen checked them and doesn't seem to visually be wrong so??? Just changed Spark plugs new 255 Wbro pump new F/Filter. So? compression was good as well. Something had to have fried or shorted together?? Should i take the ECU n to get tested just to be sure?? Or could it be a ground wire or short from something in the Interior dash wiring harness??

 

[And_44]

MPI/Fuel Pump Relay? Right in same area as ECU. But when my ECU went had a very bad ozone smell, so bad my eye's watered and made every single article of clothing I had smell of ozone.

 

[90moneypit]

Well SOMEthing electrical shorted out if you could smell ozone, the question now is what isn't it. Did you do the CEL test yet? It should come on when you turn the key like toofast82 said. If the light does come on, we can move on to checking things like the fusible links. The fusible links are the big squares with colored sides and a clear top but otherwise do what a normal blade fuse does, just a little slower. There's also a main fusible link for the entire harness located on the positive battery cable (big black rectangle). If all those are still good, I'd recommend taking the dash out (I know, I know) so you can better see the wiring and sensors back there. At this point it seems like overkill to take out the dash but without knowing what caused the short in the first place, anything you do will be a band-aid at best, and gasoline at worst! For all we know, there could be a colony of mice living in the ductwork and surviving off french fries and wire shielding...

 

[Trevor-DOHC]

I have not done the "CEL" test. Forgive me if i don't understand the short terms. Still a new Born just going onto my 2nd year. if the ECU should be a step taken to figure out my problem? Who would i take it to? A basic Electronics Tech somewhere?(for Circuitry)I haven't gotten around to it but i do have all weekend now so i will overlook everything ASAP.

 

[gofer]

I have not done the "CEL" test. Forgive me if i don't understand the short terms. Still a new Born just going onto my 2nd year. if the ECU should be a step taken to figure out my problem? Who would i take it to? A basic Electronics Tech somewhere?(for Circuitry)I haven't gotten around to it but i do have all weekend now so i will overlook everything ASAP.

Take a picture of the circuit board and post it. If its fried I suggest going through Tom and Dave at ecmlink.

 

[90moneypit]

Take a picture of the circuit board and post it. If its fried I suggest going through Tom and Dave at ecmlink.

+1 they're top notch with more experience than anyone else I can think of.

As far as the CEL test goes. CEL stands for Check Engine Light or service soon light. It should light up when you turn the key to the on position but don't try to start the engine. If it does NOT light up, then there is more than likely a problem with the ECU. Even if it does light up, there may still be a problem so it would be best to open it up and take some clear, detailed picture of it.

 

[Trevor-DOHC]

It really kinda makes me mad that for some reason i cant upload a pic onto here. Anyway I did overlook some Pics from ECMlink.com and my ECU looks Very good no signs of corrosion or bad circuitry. The CEL does come on when i turn the key for bout 10 Sec then turns off. Checked all known fuses and they are fine. Except for the Rad fan fuse. have that one pulled because the car was overheating due to what I found is one of the Fans are Toast??

 

[gofer]

It really kinda makes me mad that for some reason i cant upload a pic onto here. Anyway I did overlook some Pics from ECMlink.com and my ECU looks Very good no signs of corrosion or bad circuitry. The CEL does come on when i turn the key for bout 10 Sec then turns off. Checked all known fuses and they are fine. Except for the Rad fan fuse. have that one pulled because the car was overheating due to what I found is one of the Fans are Toast??

Got your PM Trevor, sorry its taken so long to get back and post up I've just been busy with the girl doin weekend stuff since I'm so busy working during the week.

Start with the basics since its a no start. Key in the ON position should give you a check engine light for 5 seconds, then disappear. That checks to see if the ECU is functioning.

Pull your spark plugs out one by one, connect it to the spark plug wire it came off of and then ground it to the valve cover. While someones cranking the car check for spark between the electrodes on the tip of it.

If sparks good, pull the fuel line coming into the fuel rail from the fuel filter. Hold it in a big cup (that you dont mind throwing away) and have someone crank the car. If fuels coming up to the fuel rail your fuel pump/MFI relay is working. Theres also a fuel injector resistor pack, it sits on the firewall just behind your intake manifold in a silver looking rectangle shaped box. Pull your CAS (cam angle sensor) off the side of the intake cam, pay close attention to how it was installed before you take it off because it needs to go back on the SAME WAY! Then pull it out and spin it using your finger with the key in the ON position, you should hear your injectors firing or clicking whatever you want to call it.

If all the above checks good, which it shouldn't since you smelt something electrical burning, the only thing left to check for your no start is timing and compression. Get to this point and post up your results and we'll go from there. My guess is you'll be missing spark on 2 cylinders for whatever reason... Have you done ANYTHING to your car as far as electrical goes since you've owned it? Seen any shody tapped up wires? ANYTHING? Usually this stuff doesn't just happen, you sure you haven't installed anything electrical?

 

[Trevor-DOHC]

Ok so what i have done so far is.... I Have checked the Plugs they are all good, Firing FINE. Not sure how to check if it was my Fuel injector resistor pack so thats still a wonder. Have not checked or attempted to look at the CAS either. But there is one thing that i noticed.

After pulling off the return line and cranked it over there was no gas going threw it at all. So I am not getting gas to the motor which explains why its not starting. But it doesn't explain where the burning wire smell would have came from or FIX the problem. tried replacing the MPI with another no change. was just a hunch. Put the old one back on FYI.
I have replaced the fuel pump and filter lately that is all and some minor fuses for the heater and interior cluster gauges. I just checked the fuel pump after reconnecting the ground terminal and it does not sound like the pump is working at all. ?????

 

[gofer]

Ok so what i have done so far is.... I Have checked the Plugs they are all good, Firing FINE. Not sure how to check if it was my Fuel injector resistor pack so thats still a wonder. Have not checked or attempted to look at the CAS either. But there is one thing that i noticed.

After pulling off the return line and cranked it over there was no gas going threw it at all. So I am not getting gas to the motor which explains why its not starting. But it doesn't explain where the burning wire smell would have came from or FIX the problem. tried replacing the MPI with another no change. was just a hunch. Put the old one back on FYI.
I have replaced the fuel pump and filter lately that is all and some minor fuses for the heater and interior cluster gauges. I just checked the fuel pump after reconnecting the ground terminal and it does not sound like the pump is working at all. ?????

You don't need to check the injectors, your pump isn't getting fuel to the rail. Party on because you found something, now you know where to start looking and not awhole lot can cause this. Did you have your fuel pump rewired? Theres a fuse on that wire if you did the rewire like you were supposed too, theres also a relay that can short as well on the rewire. You need to get out a DMM (digital multimeter) and start checking voltages and tracing wires.

 

[Trevor-DOHC]

I replaced the Stock pump with a 255 Walbro. I did not know that I needed to rewire stuff and put in an extra FUSE on the line. I just wired the pump up from the wires that were there from the stock one. So it could be that my pump motor fried, or more a less because I smelt the burning from inside the car, a fuse somewhere or wire fried/fused. Could it be that I shorted a relay out or something?

wondering where should i start now?

 

[90moneypit]

This is the 'easy' part. Check the voltage at the positive and negative wires on the pump for voltage (with ignition on obviously) and work your way back to the MPI fuse until you find voltage ~12v. Once you find it, go to the next point closer to the pump and check again, replace if handy, and try again at the pump until you have ~12v there as well. You know what happens then right? Problem solved. If you trace all the way back past the fuses and still don't have voltage, you have problems but this should at least let you find out if it's something easier.

basically this:

battery----MPI relay----fuse----------pump. There may be some other points to check and I may have the fuse and relay mixed up but you get the idea right?

 

[gofer]

Heres an excuse to do your rewire since it sounds like you possibly burnt up a wire but you've got to troubleshoot a bit to find out for sure.

Buy a digital multimeter (DMM) from a car parts place, $20 is all you need to spend on one that reads voltage, resistance, & includes 2 meter leads.

You need to check for 12v at the pump, and turning the key in the "ON" position won't do it. Someone needs to be in the car trying to start it while your in the back checking the DMM for the voltages.
The circled black wire with white stripe is the 12v supply wire going to the fuel pump. Set your DMM to DCV and stab through the wire isulation with the red meter lead, touch the nut/bolt with the black meter lead for a ground. (also pictured) Have someone crank the car and see if the DMM is reading 12v.

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Post your results and we'll continue troubleshooting.

 

[Trevor-DOHC]

OK OK Well hears the scoop. Since I figured it wasn't getting fuel I took it out and hooked it up to a battery to make sure it was wasn't the pump. pump was working fine. Long story Short forgetting to mention, When I replaced the stock pump with the 255 Walbro I managed to completely break one of the smaller screws being the POWER!! Go figure I know too much force was involved. So what I did was Drilled into it and replaced what I broke off with a screw. Found out that it went to far and wasnt grounding right.

So today I cut off one of the smaller black NIBS if you will ran a wire threw that for POWER so it wouldn't ground out. Used a fuse butt to do it. PROBLEM SOLVED. But: It still doesn't explain to me what or where the burning smell came from in the car?? You get what I Mean??

 

[gofer]

No, I have no idea what your talking about actually. But who cares, did you get your car to start?

 

[Trevor-DOHC]

Ok before i did change my stock pump with a 255 Walbro. When i was installing the 255 i broke off the screw that connects the Power line inside on like the mount bracket that holds the pump in place before you connect it in the trunk area. (RED WIRE) Inside the Tank on the Pump. Anyways that wire wasnt connected properly. So I rewired it myself.

You were Mentioning something about a fuse on the pump? So I do need one? But other wise yes I did get it going. Thanks so much for the advice.

 

[Afroclipse]

the 2g has a fuse for the ecu, if that fuse is blown develop symptoms like you are having. I stayed for 3 days diagnosing before I checked that 20amp fuse, check it bro you will be pissed.

 

[gofer]

Ok before i did change my stock pump with a 255 Walbro. When i was installing the 255 i broke off the screw that connects the Power line inside on like the mount bracket that holds the pump in place before you connect it in the trunk area. (RED WIRE) Inside the Tank on the Pump. Anyways that wire wasnt connected properly. So I rewired it myself.

You were Mentioning something about a fuse on the pump? So I do need one? But other wise yes I did get it going. Thanks so much for the advice.

I was assuming that since you had a 255 installed you did the rewire as well. Doing the rewire you throw an inline fuse on the power wire going to the pump, I was asking if you had checked it. Since you haven't done the rewire I suggest you do it before you get lazy...

A good friend of mine has a 91 AWD talon that he rewired using this write-up 1g AWD fp rewire. The point of rewiring your fp is so its getting a constant voltage it needs to supply fuel to the motor during WOT. He wired it to the battery and was getting 13.3 to 12.8v during a WOT pull. Then he wired it directly to the side of his alternator and was getting a solid 13.5v to the pump all the way to redline. Since you haven't done the rewire yet, just use the above write up for it but instead of wiring to the battery wire directly to your alternator.

 

[lepo_qq]

OK OK Well hears the scoop. Since I figured it wasn't getting fuel I took it out and hooked it up to a battery to make sure it was wasn't the pump. pump was working fine. Long story Short forgetting to mention, When I replaced the stock pump with the 255 Walbro I managed to completely break one of the smaller screws being the POWER!! Go figure I know too much force was involved. So what I did was Drilled into it and replaced what I broke off with a screw. Found out that it went to far and wasnt grounding right.
So today I cut off one of the smaller black NIBS if you will ran a wire threw that for POWER so it wouldn't ground out. Used a fuse butt to do it. PROBLEM SOLVED. But: It still doesn't explain to me what or where the burning smell came from in the car?? You get what I Mean??

I'm pretty sure when you have loose wires not correctly tightened, fireworks like to come and play. like say youre negative battery cable is loose on your car, you start your car but it takes a little while longer. look at the ground cable and touch it. it would be pretty hot. im sure since the cables on your FP werent correctly tightened, this exact scenario played out next to the gas tank! Thats purely my opinion however. since you asked where the smell came from!

 

[90moneypit]

^^ Brings up a good point. I had a similar problem with my pump and didn't have a couple hundred extra bucks to buy a dual pump hanger... Long story short, use some Seal-All (Total Motorcycle reviews. Seal-All Glue, all-purpose contact adhesive & sealant.) to seal up the hole around the wires. It is THE only thing I've found that can seal something that sees regular exposure to gasoline. You can find it at some different auto parts stores but not all of them carry it. It'll seal and keep you from sparking all at the same time.