Show me your clean engine bays

[Paintballaa5]

Just finished putting mine together!

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[twicks69]

Here is the BEFORE:

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Here is the AFTER Completed:

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[Paintballaa5]

Here's the one I am working on.

Wow, got some really nice parts on that thing!
Interesting catch can, never seen one with a filter like that

 

[twicks69]

It's a one-off; I made the design and had Fathouse make it for me.

 

[Gsx-Dude]

Wow those are some really clean ones.

I'm also working on cleaning up my engine bay..

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[keltalon]

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Here's the one I am working on.

Very nice tim I like the uniqueness, and attention to details.

 

[keltalon]

Just finished putting mine together!

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Super clean!!

 

[dsmcrzy]

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[ohsofast122]

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[Chumpaumpalumpa]

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How many horsepower does the chair add?

 

[keltalon]

How many horsepower does the chair add?

One hunard!

 

[GST with PSI]

Just added a JMF COP plate.

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[idkiliketurbos]

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[gofer]

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Looking good!

 

[Smilinjay]

Glad to see this thread is still going! Mine's not on the same level as a lot of these but here it is so far.

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[gofer]

I like seeing all these bays, the attention to detail and time some of you guys spend on them with wire tucks is awesome. This is my most recent with the Zaklee gear cover, BC cam gears, modified water pipe and t-stat housing, and the custom VIN plate. HOPEFULLY I can catch up to you guys with the fusebox relos, tucks, P/S deletes this summer and clean it up some more.

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[JDT]

I like seeing all these bays, the attention to detail and time some of you guys spend on them with wire tucks is awesome. This is my most recent with the Zaklee gear cover, BC cam gears, modified water pipe and t-stat housing, and the custom VIN plate. HOPEFULLY I can catch up to you guys with the fusebox relos, tucks, P/S deletes this summer and clean it up some more.

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I want your car, wow.



I envy all you guys with your nice strut towers.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Nice bays I hope to pull my engine and paint the bay ater this year and remove power steering.

 

[keltalon]

I like seeing all these bays, the attention to detail and time some of you guys spend on them with wire tucks is awesome. This is my most recent with the Zaklee gear cover, BC cam gears, modified water pipe and t-stat housing, and the custom VIN plate. HOPEFULLY I can catch up to you guys with the fusebox relos, tucks, P/S deletes this summer and clean it up some more.

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Nice looking engine you have there good job!

 

[Paintballaa5]

I like the VIN tag gofer, where did you get that made? Also the radiator tucked inside the core support is really cool. Bet that clears up a good bit of space. Any sign of slightly cooler coolant temps with it further from the exhaust?

 

[gofer]

I like the VIN tag gofer, where did you get that made? Also the radiator tucked inside the core support is really cool. Bet that clears up a good bit of space. Any sign of slightly cooler coolant temps with it further from the exhaust?

First of all, your engine bay looks awesome.

The long answer...
Tucking the radiator does free up a lot of space and cleans up the bay, it's hard to say if moving it forward helped with CT's though because it wasn't a apples to apples comparison. When I upgraded to the AFCO Scirocco radiator I also installed a Mishimoto 143* t-stat as well as a smaller and thinner radiator push fan. Cruising I'm bumping 160* but idle eventually gets to 180* if I let it sit or I'm in traffic/at a stop light, then it drops back down to 160's once I've been at cruising speeds for a few minutes. So, for low load/cruise speeds I think that it helps having it further out of the bay away from the heat. Now, WOT is a different story. The water pipe is routed in what's probably one of the the hottest places in the bay at WOT and it isn't wrapped. My CT's jump from 170* before the beginning of a 1/4 mile pass and are almost 200*'s after the end of the run and I think the heat is getting absorbed into the coolant from the water pipe and the smaller radiator doesn't have enough surface area to pull it out. I don't have any ducting between it and the FMIC either, so that could have something to do with it but it's fine at cruising speeds.
TL;DR...
I noticed an improvement at idle/cruise but WOT coolant temps creep up fast, probably wouldn't be able to road race/autox until I wrapped the water pipe and ducted the radiator.

The VIN plate I designed using Photoshop and after creating it I just submitted the design to a company that does custom badges and they did the rest, the stock VIN tag was faded almost completely and had grease stains on it so it was needing a overhaul. If you want one look up Jason Drew on Facebook, he makes them for DSM's and they're reasonably priced. Knowing what I know now with pricing, etc. I would have gone with one of his.

 

[Paintballaa5]

First of all, your engine bay looks awesome.

The long answer...
Tucking the radiator does free up a lot of space and cleans up the bay, it's hard to say if moving it forward helped with CT's though because it wasn't a apples to apples comparison. When I upgraded to the AFCO Scirocco radiator I also installed a Mishimoto 143* t-stat as well as a smaller and thinner radiator push fan. Cruising I'm bumping 160* but idle eventually gets to 180* if I let it sit or I'm in traffic/at a stop light, then it drops back down to 160's once I've been at cruising speeds for a few minutes. So, for low load/cruise speeds I think that it helps having it further out of the bay away from the heat. Now, WOT is a different story. The water pipe is routed in what's probably one of the the hottest places in the bay at WOT and it isn't wrapped. My CT's jump from 170* before the beginning of a 1/4 mile pass and are almost 200*'s after the end of the run and I think the heat is getting absorbed into the coolant from the water pipe and the smaller radiator doesn't have enough surface area to pull it out. I don't have any ducting between it and the FMIC either, so that could have something to do with it but it's fine at cruising speeds.
TL;DR...
I noticed an improvement at idle/cruise but WOT coolant temps creep up fast, probably wouldn't be able to road race/autox until I wrapped the water pipe and ducted the radiator.

The VIN plate I designed using Photoshop and after creating it I just submitted the design to a company that does custom badges and they did the rest, the stock VIN tag was faded almost completely and had grease stains on it so it was needing a overhaul. If you want one look up Jason Drew on Facebook, he makes them for DSM's and they're reasonably priced. Knowing what I know now with pricing, etc. I would have gone with one of his.

Hey thanks man, I really appreciate it. I literally just got it started, and I'm absolutely stoked about how everything came out. There are definitely a few things I had to do that I wish I could have done differently, (like the ebay manifold..) but I'm almost done with school and decided it was best to quit my real job and do my powder coating on the side until I graduate. So my funds became extremely limited, and the final parts I needed came from trades for powder coating work.

But yea I agree, wrapping the water pipe should give you a fairly significant decrease in temps during WOT. It's sandwiched between a ~1400* hunk of metal, and a engine block! Not the most ideal place.. for anything really.
I envy those cruising temps though. My old 2g always sat at a fairly consistent ~205*. Do those low temps not cause issues with closed loop operation? I can't remember precisely what point it is, but don't CT's need to be at a certain temp to enter closed loop?

 

[gofer]

I envy those cruising temps though. My old 2g always sat at a fairly consistent ~205*. Do those low temps not cause issues with closed loop operation? I can't remember precisely what point it is, but don't CT's need to be at a certain temp to enter closed loop?

The car stay's in OL with coolant temps <51F or 228F<, anything in between as far as coolant temps go it will operate in CL just fine. You're thinking of "learn mode" where the ECU takes the learned STFT adjustments and makes them LTFT adjustments. Learn mode is CT's <180F (along with some other variables) and to get around it I use ECMLink's coolant offset adjustment so the ECU "thinks" I'm over 180F.

In the winter when I drive the car and it's 40F out CT's never get above 140*'s.

 

[Paintballaa5]

Learn mode is CT's <180F (along with some other variables) and to get around it I use ECMLink's coolant offset adjustment so the ECU "thinks" I'm over 180F.

Ooh okay, my bad. I could have sworn it was closed loop. So it uses the coolant offset feature to make it think it's higher than what it is. Interesting, I'll have to keep that in mind if by some miracle I actually have low coolant temps!

 

[PlanZero]

Gofer, what's up with that black DSM badge on your firewall?