should a stock t-25 turbo be boosting past 20lbs?

[GofaST4life]

Ive tried searching but i couldnt come up with anything that really answered my questions. I still new at this (DSM), but im learning quickly and im loving it more and more...

Here's my isssue, im running pretty much a stock GST at the moment, stock turbo, exhaust, everything, im collecting all the parts and doing things on my own time...but anyway, back to my issue, i do have an after market boost gauge that came already installed in the car...here's where i think something is not right, should a stock t-25 turbo be boosting past 20lbs??? Wouldn't it be acting more like a heating pump? hahahaha I have a turbo temp gauge as well, how hot should my turbo be getting??? and isnt 20 plus lbs on a stock turbo DANGEROUS!?!?!

Ive been reading enough on this site and others to be concerned.

This is the only turbo charged car ive driven, so i cant really compare to like another car with less boost to see if there is like a difference or what not, but the car picks up its balls and f*cking goes when i want it to...im just trying to give as much info so you guys who know these cars well can help out a new comer...

Questions
1. Should a stock turbo be boosting that much?

2. Is there anyway i can possibly turn the turbo down, like with a manual boost controller or something of the sort?


-Aaron

 

[GofaST4life]

yeah ill get a pic asap for ya...i never thought about that actually..."wret" i see what your saying, but why would the uwner nefore go through the trouble of installign a turbo temo gauge in the car if its truly not needed, now that you mention i havent really seen one in another eclipse...

 

[wret]

Maybe he was anal about shutting the engine down with a hot turbo. Many intall a turbo timer to keep the car idling a few minutes before shutting down. Not really necessary with a T25.

 

[GofaST4life]

i guess that would make sense...

 

[kenamond]

I think a turbo timer is a good idea on any turbo. Included in this is the manual turbo timer (idle the car for a minute before shutting down). The hotside can get really hot under full load, so if you shut the car down right after getting on it, the oil in the turbo can get cooked by the heat conducting out of the turbine housing and turbine wheel. That can exceed the oil's thermal breakdown temperature which turns the oil into "coke". The coke builds up and blocks oil flow resulting in "coked up bearings" and turbo failure.

Coking can effectively be decreased by more frequent oil changes, running synthetic oil (higher thermal breakdown temperature) and idling the car after a hard pull before shutdown (to keep oil and coolant circulating in the center section to draw the heat out of the hotside and keep oil from lingering and overheating).

There was plenty of coke in my T25 when it went at 78k miles. I did 3k oil changes with Mobil1 synth, but I didn't always let the car idle.

 

[DSMunknown]

Don't let these guys make fun about the size of your turbo. There's a LOT of fun to be had with the fast spooling T25.

Tell that to Bruce. He keeps making fun of me because I've got T28 plans.

 

[GofaST4life]

Can you get a pic of the turbo with the intake off?....reason I ask is because my friend bought a talon tsi not too long ago and it was also "stock". He was boosting at around 15-20 psi also and holding it to redline, which I thought was very weird for a t25. So I checked the fins of the "t25" and sure enough it was a t28

while i was home i took off my intake and looked at the turbo, the inside looks brand spanking new, shiny and all, looks great and there is barely any, IF ANY AT ALL side to side or in and out movment and it spins freely with my fingers...so maybe it isnt stock but then again i wouldnt really know, i took some pics and will have them on here asap.

 

[project95gsx]

I'm also boosting up to 20 pounds on the T25. The car started going to 20 (from 15) after I installed the N1 turbo-back. Could that have anything to do with it? I'm going to take off the WGA and put compressor air to it and see if it is really opening at all.
Thanks for this thread.

 

[kenamond]

I'm also boosting up to 20 pounds on the T25. The car started going to 20 (from 15) after I installed the N1 turbo-back. Could that have anything to do with it? I'm going to take off the WGA and put compressor air to it and see if it is really opening at all.
Thanks for this thread.

I'm not sure how much pressure the diaphragm in the WGA can take. If you have a regulator on the compressor, I'd set it to 20psi to be safe. Or maybe you're talking about doing a boost leak test but just looking at the WGA behavior in which case, you'd definitely be keeping the pressure down so you don't blow other seals (right? ).

 

[kenamond]

while i was home i took off my intake and looked at the turbo, the inside looks brand spanking new, shiny and all, looks great and there is barely any, IF ANY AT ALL side to side or in and out movment and it spins freely with my fingers...so maybe it isnt stock but then again i wouldnt really know, i took some pics and will have them on here asap.

If you have a stock boost controller, it shouldn't boost to 20psi even if it's a T28.

You should trace the vaccuum lines off the compressor housing and WGA and see where they go. If they go to a T fitting and then to a black thingy bolted to the passenger frame rail under the coolant overflow bottle, then another line goes to the intake pipe (between air filter and turbo), that's the stock BCS (boost control solenoid). The BCS will also have a plug and wires coming out of it, too. If it does something else, take some pics and post them.

Might not hurt to take a picture of your exhaust, too (downpipe, cat, muffler). If you have a bigger exhaust, that might be causing it, too. I didn't mention it, because you said the exhaust was stock...but maybe it's not.

We can go from there.

 

[GofaST4life]

im pretty sure the exhaust is stock, ive been under the car and it really did look stock, there was nuttin special to it, surface rust and what not, but ill get right on some pictures asap...

 

[kenamond]

im pretty sure the exhaust is stock, ive been under the car and it really did look stock, there was nuttin special to it, surface rust and what not, but ill get right on some pictures asap...

I'd worry first about finding out the status of the boost controller. The non-stock exhaust is a bit of a long shot.

 

[project95gsx]

I did a boost leak test and found out the Greddy-S didn't have any RTV on either side of the gasket. I RTV'ed it and replaced my lower injector seals (which were so old they were plastic). This helped a lot. I've found another boost leak under the TPS somewhere. It's actually coming out of the bottom seal against the throttle body and the TPS. I guess it's the TPS O-Ring

 

[16g-2ndgen]

yea i blew my head gasket becouse my freind wanted to do something on my car for me and he put on the boost controller improperly, the WGA was going crazy, spiking at like 22 psi!! on a stock 14b!

 

[GofaST4life]

hey guys, sorry it took so long been budy with school and what not, but i finally got a pick up of the turbo. Like ct78155 asked. Let me know what ya think.

 

[meliketoball]

GofaST4life- Did you try to wiggle the blade that here picture you took?

To talk about turning the T-25 into a T-28, where do you do so? How much are we looking at?

 

[meliketoball]

Man this sounds like a crumby deal but overall an easy fix. Haha if it makes you feel any better I have it a little worse but similar problems. I worked all last summer and all this summer to get my 99 GSX which i had to pay about 2000 dollars more then what it was worth because the dumb lady selling it wouldnt budge. i got to drive it two days before the turbo went out. Then I hopped on ebay got a big evo III 16g, stainless steel downpipe, and an external dump. I got that almost put in then i snapped an oil line that took forever to get. Then when that was all good i got to drive my car two weeks before my parents were flipping out about it being loud with just the downpipe. I bought a catback that was not made for an aftermarket downpipe and i had a two inch gap where the reducer is supposed to go. I had a local exhaust shop check it out and they hacked up my downpipe and made it longer. i got all that figured out and then my turbo was surging up to like 20 lbs. I ordered a manual boost controller and the day it got here my clutch started slipping. No way to set it with that going on. not but three days later and my car was completely undrivable. For the last two weeks ive spent every free moment working on getting the transmission out of my car which i did. I even did everything right and ordered all the stuff before taking my transmission out but when i got it out the flywheel bolts dodge gave me for a talon turned out to be for a 420a. So ive spent about a half a week waiting on those and my bolt snapped off inside my lower control arm. I air hammered it for hours with no results so i eventually had to take a sawsall to it and went to buy a 35 dollar control arm and new front cv joints because my current ones have rips in the boots and the control arm ended up being 98 dollars leaving me with not enough money to swing the cv joints. My flywheel bolts are supposed to be here tommorow. Hopefully i can get it running even without the new cv axles. Maybe tomorrow i will get to drive my 10,000 dollar eclipse. NOTE: i'm only sixteen and have been doing all of this on 9 dollars an hour

Damn man, you are a tropper (with bad luck), DSM for life.

 

[GofaST4life]

Can you get a pic of the turbo with the intake off?....reason I ask is because my friend bought a talon tsi not too long ago and it was also "stock". He was boosting at around 15-20 psi also and holding it to redline, which I thought was very weird for a t25. So I checked the fins of the "t25" and sure enough it was a t28

i never thought of the t28 thing untill this post, so i took a pic, i was never trying to turn it into a t28 but to answer the rest of your questions meliketoball yeah i tried wiggling it in and out, back and forth and nutting happened, and its not hard to spin by hand at all (im thinking thats good). Hope that helps.

-Aaron

 

[kenamond]

It doesn't look like a FP Big28, but I don't know about a T28. The wall thickness of the compressor inlet is too thick for an FP B28.

And you're not going to be able to do a proper boost leak test without a gauge of some sort to tell you how much you're pressurizing the intake. Some boost leak tester designs have a gauge built into them, but most of us just use our aftermarket boost gauges. You don't want to overpressurize the intake.

 

[GofaST4life]

noted kenamond, and thank you for the guidence...as soon as in back home for our month of break, ill be spending nite and day in the garage...hell i may just sleep in the thing...

but once again, thank you everyone for your advice...

-Aaron

 

[Skip01]

Didnt know if i was late but 20psi is past the t25's peak efficency..