The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Sealing the T.B.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

allrice4g63

10+ Year Contributor
176
0
Jun 17, 2008
hager city, Wisconsin
OK so here is my problem, i did a boost leak test and apparantly my throttly body was leaking so i replaced all my gaskets and did a leak test again but it is leaking out of where the shaft actually goes into the throttle body to the butterfly. I took the T.B. off and that shaft has play in it. is there a rebuild kit you can buy for those or what do i have to do to make it stop leaking. i can pressurize the system to 20 psi and it slowly drops back down to 10 within a matter of seconds. So i am guessing this is what is causing my bad gas mileage and lack of power until about 4000k. any responses to this would be awesome thanks.
 
Have fun trying to get the throttle plate screws out, they strip very easily. I recommend getting an impact screw driver from harbor freight. Either that or take a #2 Phillips, I think, and tap the end with a hammer into the screw, then use a ton of force to break the screw lose. I just did this over the summer and it's a PITA, just take your time and you should be fine. I followed this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...3135-1990-throttle-body-seal-replacement.html It helped out a lot.
 
I got my o-rings from the harware store, they've been holding strong for over a year now.
I tried the correct o-rings myself and they leaked just as bad as my original shaft seals. Thats good that it works for some but I have read some posts that verify my findings as well. Its easier to spend $11 and do it once than have to do it twice.
 
My throttle body is also leaking through the shaft seals. This is the first thing I will be doing to my car when I get home. :thumb: Boost leaks are not fun. Thanks for all of the tips guys, they will definitely come in quite handy :rocks:
 
Have fun trying to get the throttle plate screws out, they strip very easily. I recommend getting an impact screw driver from harbor freight. Either that or take a #2 Phillips, I think, and tap the end with a hammer into the screw, then use a ton of force to break the screw lose. I just did this over the summer and it's a PITA, just take your time and you should be fine. I followed this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...3135-1990-throttle-body-seal-replacement.html It helped out a lot.


i used this it worked perfectly.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Phillips, Reed and Prince and Pozidrive are three of the many cross-head screw designs out there. They all work perfectly- with their own proprietary screws. Phillips usually work on them all, unless they were really torqued-in, are into metal that will seize, or if the head is already starting to deform.

A dab of valve grinding compound on the tip of the driver can help, too.

When possible, the usual thread cheats such as heat and lube also can help.

And then there's the good old left-hand twist drill bit and a lot of foul fcuking language.

The ones with heads that require special drivers, or which "can't" (they all can) be unscrewed are usually called "Toilet screws" because they show up on the partitions in public toilets.

Henry F. Phillips - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top