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seafoam works! [merged]

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cranky

Probationary Member
12
2
Nov 15, 2003
I have been using seafoam in heavy equipment engines for years and I have seen it make dramatic differences in performance and idle quality. I recently had a problem with low power from my 91 talon. It felt like the computer was removing timing. Normally what I do is find a secluded spot because you will smoke down your whole neighborhood. Start the engine and let it get up to opperating temp. I remove a vacum hose and put it in the can and rev the engine to about 2500 rpm and suck the can dry. Shut off the engine and let it sit for about 15 minutes. Then start it back up and run it down the road, and run it hard. This will remove a substantial amount of carbon build up from the combustion chambers. :thumb:
 
I tried this stuff last night and it seemed to help a bit, my CEL takes longer to come on and i found out i have a huge exhaust leak in the manifold. i also put some on the tops of the pistons and changed out my plugs, and put some in the gas tank. plus i added this compression restorer to my oil. I hope that stuff works :| .
 
Hmmm.. I'm still having problems with mine. The car sounds like a lawnmower after using the Seafoam and it's hella slow. It will not accelerate at all. Plus, I've been running it for 30 mins and there's still smoke coming out! is this normal?
 
For all you people that got good results with seafoam: what are your driving habits like? Do you go WOT fairly often or do you drive mildly?
 
I am hesitant to try this as I have found that after a while the internal tolerances get loose, as in you need a re-build, but the carbon adn or varnish builds up the surface a bit keeping it sealed up all nice and tight.

case in point, 1971 Mustang with a 351 Cleveland. bought it from an old lady that used it as a grocery getter for about 17 years. motor was all origional, but was highly varnished inside. I used Sea Foam in it and it DID clean it allout, but it also cleaned out what was keeping the tolerances tight and it now ran like DOODOO.

I personally would not recomend this to the guys like me who have bought a car used and do not know the condition of the internals unless you can afford to rebuild it.

Just my two cents....


Mike
 
frigginlazer said:
I am hesitant to try this as I have found that after a while the internal tolerances get loose, as in you need a re-build, but the carbon adn or varnish builds up the surface a bit keeping it sealed up all nice and tight.

case in point, 1971 Mustang with a 351 Cleveland. bought it from an old lady that used it as a grocery getter for about 17 years. motor was all origional, but was highly varnished inside. I used Sea Foam in it and it DID clean it allout, but it also cleaned out what was keeping the tolerances tight and it now ran like DOODOO.

I personally would not recomend this to the guys like me who have bought a car used and do not know the condition of the internals unless you can afford to rebuild it.

Just my two cents....


Mike

thoughts on this guys?
 
Nerfherder said:
Sounds like BS to me.

Why? Makes perfect sense to me. shit accumulates and forms some sort of buildup to make sure no vacuum leak may be possible. when things tend to start getting old and falling apart, and deteriorating, cleaning all that buildup and gunk leaves areas where air may escape.

Seems logical to me.
 
its like switching from normal oil to synthetic at high miles..conventional oil builds up deposits and blocks oil leaks....synthetic has a detergent in it which clean out those deposits, which is good and bad...if those deposits are blocking a potential oil leak...its bad to get rid of them in that case...lots of people say synthetic oil causes oil leaks....it doesnt, it just makes them apparent...same principle with seafoam..if you are hesitant to try it, then dont :D
 
DevilSperm said:
its like switching from normal oil to synthetic at high miles..conventional oil builds up deposits and blocks oil leaks....synthetic has a detergent in it which clean out those deposits, which is good and bad...if those deposits are blocking a potential oil leak...its bad to get rid of them in that case...lots of people say synthetic oil causes oil leaks....it doesnt, it just makes them apparent...same principle with seafoam..if you are hesitant to try it, then dont :D

Also the same principle as why you dont get your oil "flushed" on a high milage car. I found out the hard way 4 years back. :cry: Defintely makes sense.


Seafoam on a rotary? I dunno If I would try that. Anyone one else agree/disagree?
 
on a rotary I would suggest it. there are things called Apex Seals on the points of the rotors. these tend to get filled with carbon and gunk and sometimes will stick down causing a leak. On my 84 RX7 it lost power after a while, so I used ATF in it. pulled the trailing plugs, poured in about a 3rd cup, rotated to the next chamber and added more and did the last chamber on both rotors, let it sit over night and fired it up the next day. smoke cloud from hell, but the motor ran a LOT better. there are a LOT fewer parts in a rotary, I think there are only like 9 moving parts in the motor compared to the 86 or so in 4 cylinder.

Mike
 
ok im about to do this and have a qucik question. do i have to change the oil filter after doing this? im going to change the oil for sure but i just changed the filter a couple weeks ago and its a pain in the ass with a 3 inch exhaust so if i dont need to change the filter that would be great. thanks.
 
if you are planning on putting the seafoam in your oil then yes, you will need to change your filter and oil within a few hundred miles of using it...if you are just running it through the top side, you should be ok
 
anyone ever consider just taking off the intake and cleaning it by hand? or is running seafoam through the TB hose supposed to be better?
 
DSMkid311 said:
anyone ever consider just taking off the intake and cleaning it by hand? or is running seafoam through the TB hose supposed to be better?

It's not a matter of just cleaning the intake manifold. It helps clean the intake manifold, the intake ports on the head, tops of the valves, the combustion chamber, etc.
 
So im assuming you let your car smoke out all the seafoam before you change your oil, and im assuming that i could get to my local shop for them to change my oil after i stop smoking. Before the hardcores jump all over me for not changing my own oil, my car is lowered and its a pain in the ass and messy, and its worth 20$ to me to have it done in a few minutes. (with mobil 1 of course). Anyways, what im getting at is i wanna know if its safe to run fora few miles with the seafoam in my oil, or if i need to smoke it out then change it right away in my driveway.



Dave
 
I go a mile down the road to a shop i have been going to since i was a kid ;) i have a few cases of mobil 1 in my garage that i got from an out of business sale and i use that. the filter + labor is included in the low low price of 20$ :thumb:

Edit: oh and im always in the garage watching him crawl under the beast, so no missing oil for me. i check the dipstick before i leave ;). I often check the air in my tires and just go around checking things out making sure im not leaking fluids etc. pretty cool to have a mechanic to shoot the shit with while he changes the oil. he likes the business, and i like not getting greasy.

Dave
 
i threw some seafoam in my car today, fun shit LOL after pouring 1/3 the bottle into the intake manifold i went to turn the car off and i took the key out and the engine kept running LOL it took like 30seconds to completly die rofl. I let it sit for about 10minutes started car turned over fine than you had smoke everywhere and the 8 year old kids sniffing it LOL, but this shit really does work my throttle response is better and my idle'ing is solid unlike before were it would bounce around. 2 thumbs up for seafoam :thumb: :thumb:
 
just ran a half a bottle in my gas can and after 200 miles, that has worked great. i have noticed a lot more pick up in the lower RPMs. im not sure if i have the balls to run it through my intake though. that and i just changed my oil about 300 miles ago anyway.

i give the stuff a big :thumb:
 
Ok well I stuck a can in and this is what I noticed. It didn't really improve throttle response, but it did do exactly what I was hoping it would. It cleaned out whatever valves in the tb were gungked up. Now my cold idle only only flexes around 1300-1500 rpms when it used to flex 400-1500 rpms. Its pretty much right should be for when the engines cold. Im gonna put one more can in which will hopefully elimanate the fluxuation in idle completely. Now do yourslelf a favor and buy yourself a can because it works.
 
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