SBR Race vs Street FMIC Kit

[neuralracing]

WHat are the differences between the two kits other than core size? WHat are the pros and cons of going with the Steet vs Race Kit and viceversa?

What BOV do you guys recommend I get (I ask since I need to get the proper Flange).

I plan on getting either the AEM EMS (running it in Speed Density) or the GM MAFT with the DSMLink (Venting to the Atmosphere). WIll I need to get some special tubing or will the SBR kit work for that (venting)?

 

[-silencer-]

If you've got a GM MAF & MAFT in a blow-through setup then you don't need to do anything other than cap the inlet on the intake pipe. Venting doesn't require any pipe modifications other than that, but the blow-through GM MAF will require a mod to the upper IC pipe close to the throttle body. Take a look at Dejon Tool's blow through piping to see what I mean. www.dejonpowerhouse.com

 

[project_tsi]

Either way, both are a great kit. The street core will easily support everything a 50 trim (or possibly larger) can throw at it. When I bought my SBR kit, I ordered the street kit, and low and behold in the mail, they sent me the race core kit instead, and I love it. The install wasn't too hard and I actually enjoyed doing it. I'm glad I ended up getting the race kit, its Huge, and It looks awesome! If I ordered it again, I would just order the race kit and be done with it. The race kit will handle about anything turbo wise that you can throw at it. Its Sooo cool how it works. After a hard run I can feel the IC inlet and Its hot, and slide my hand over the IC and feel it getting cooler, and by the time its at the outlet tank, its down to cold again, so I know damn well its working, and its working good!

As for BOV's. Ive heard people having overall great results w/ Greddy Type S. I Have a TurboXS RFL, only because I got it for free, otherwise I would have bought the greddy. I, luckily, have had no problems (yet) w/ my BOV holding 25 psi, but thats not to say it wont leak soon. TurboXS's have a bad reputation leaking at high boost due to the ### ass mounting flange design and seal.

As for piping, both kits are short route piping, and I absolutely love it. Its a little harder to install, but I don't have 5 extra feet of piping and couplers either so Its worth it. Theres quite a bit of cutting of the thin sheet metal that needs to be done for the pipes to fit, and some suppports need to be removed too, but no biggie, its easy to figure out. Also you'll have to pull and slide and wire looms around the IC outlet pipes or it won't fit, you;ll see. I wanted to extend my wires, but its not needed, and it fits fine. I got my kit in blow through setup and all and all it only has 3 pipes. The t-body elbow, 1 pipe w/ BOV flange, and 1 pipe for turbo outlet to IC. Thats it. The rest is nice silicone couplers w/ t bolt clamps that wont come off!

I currently run Maf-T and DSMLink in blow though setup and love it. I feel there is no need to use AEM EMS systems in my setup, its not worth the time or money, link does an awesome job!

Basically, if you want to vent to atmosphere, you need to buy the GM maf and Maf translator kit. Then order your SBR kit in Blow through setup. When installing it goes like this.

T-body elbow to coupler to GM Maf to coupler to BOV flanged IC pipe to coupler to IC, then out the other end its coupler to IC pipe to 90degree coupler to turbo! Thats it, Its soo easy its pathetic.

Well, I hope all this helps you out w/ your decision.

-Dan

 

[neuralracing]

Does the Blow-Through setup also apply if I go the AEM route?

 

[project_tsi]

Honestly I don't know. I don't think so b/c I think theres a way that you don't even need to use a Maf w/ AEM EMS. It uses a MAP system and speed density I think that allows the car to run fine w/out using a MAF or Translator. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me, b/c thats what I thought it was.

 

[neuralracing]

Honestly I don't know. I don't think so b/c I think theres a way that you don't even need to use a Maf w/ AEM EMS. It uses a MAP system and speed density I think that allows the car to run fine w/out using a MAF or Translator. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me, b/c thats what I thought it was.

You are correct... the AEM in speed density mode runs without a MAF... so I am guessing I can ask for the nromal kit just flanged to whatever BOV I want.

 

[neuralracing]

How do I know if I have the Race Core or the Street core?

 

[fsu99gsx]

Im not knocking the dsmlink or anything because many people use it and love it, but by the time you get a eprom ecu, dsmlink, and a blowthrough kit you've spent almost as much money as you would in just getting an aem. I just don't understand it. You use the aem in speed density and no need for a blowthrough kit. Vent to the atmosphere all you want. It doesn't make much sense to me so that's why I went with an aem. The only thing is you have to get someone who really knows tuning to tune with the aem. My car with alot of mods runs and drives just as good or better than stock too. I love the aem.

 

[fsu99gsx]

Oh yeah and I have the Slowboy race core and agree that it is awesome. I have a tial bov and love it too. Works great and sounds good too. I hate rice , but in my opinion there's nothing wrong with getting excited over a good sounding bov as long as the car is fast. And I don't mean fast and furious , I mean fast like Shep.

 

[SlowboyCSE]

AEM in Speed Density - A Bung gets welded in for the AEM AIT (Air Intake Temperature) Sensor. Most folks agree that you weld the AEM AIT sensor in the throttle body elbow.

You mount the AEM MAP (manifold absolute pressure) sensor on the intake manifold. If it's sheet metal, you weld the bung in or MOST (Magnus for sure) come pre tapped and she screws right in. If it's a stocker manifold, you best be ready to drill and tap!

I like speed density because your not sucking or blowing through a MAF. Less restrictions = More power.

These sensors look like the pictures i have attached!

I HEART AEM, even though it costs a little more!

 

[SlowboyCSE]

How do I know if I have the Race Core or the Street core?

Wow this is a tough one.

Turbocharger size is what everybody likes to use, but I am not going on record that is the correct way. It's a part of the equation really.

You need an adequate core to chill what you are heating up. The rule of thumb with our 1G front mounts are that if your going to run anything up to say, a nice sized turbo like a 50mm or even as big as a 60-1, you can run our street core. If you are thinking about going bigger, then the race style front mount is more what you need. Now the only problem with thinking this way is the oldest rule of hot rodding... COLD AIR MAKES MORE POWER and COLD AIR DECREASES THE CHANCES OF DETONATION! So if your going to do it, go all out and get the race core, many of my customers run 14B's and my monster front mount cores and they love it because they still have super quick spooling abilities of the stock turbocharger, but the air at their throttle bodies is super cool!

If you are a road racer, then you are not really concerned with 500 all wheel horsepower and a sik shot of nitrous for getting the job done. I see that your mod list states that you have JIC suspension, which we like using for drag racing, but possibly you are just looking for a super fast street car/road race car and this is where the SBR street front mount becomes much more acceptable. If you are building a balanced road racing car, COOLING is a huge issue that your going to run into with our monster race front mount core because you are going to have to build ducting and run some strong fans really when you are out there hot lapping for 15-30 minutes sometimes! This isn't necessary on street cars and drag cars usually because they are not operating at 4500+ rpms to redline for 15-30 minutes with no breaks! Cars that need this type of heat dissipation also need to think about an aluminum rad. The street core on the other hand does not block as much for the radiator, so you do not have to sit down and think about building shrouding for the rad and installing some big CFM pulling fans.

If you guys need more thoughts, let me know, I do not want to hog up the post, sorry for getting off topic a little on the AEM sensors in my post above!

 

[98talonAWD]

i use the SBR monster core that Cragger reccomended for me and on the dyno with a 1 hour lunch break and run after run after run..( with only one fan).. AEM said that my intake temps were never over 75 degrees fahrenheit. yes... fahrenheit. and about 1 month ago when it was 38degrees here in michigan i took the car out for the last drive and recorded 2 different times of 2-5 gear full pulls making only 26psi at the time... intake temps were 38sdegrees, and the intercooler had frost on the cooled side... this isnt a joke post either... i am being very serious! and i called Cragger the same night right after and told him... all he said was.. " i told you so ". thanks Cragger!


badass intercooler... heres a picture of the car a couple of months ago. by the way.. the intercooler goes up under the bumper another 3 inches!!!

Tim

 

[BaddAssGst]

I actually just ordered the street core, which hasn't arrived yet , because I'll be honest, I don't like the looks of an oversized IC in the front bumper that is hacked to all hell and looks like shit. Then you start getting into limited air flow which could send the cost of 829 up to another $350 for a radiator and $150 bucks for fans. Not my cup of tea, but if you think you need it..

I had NEVER heatsoaked my old Buschur IC, which was 7.5-8" tall core, and I'm pretty sure that I won't heatsoak this one either. Like Dan said, it's awesome to have a set of piping that is about 3 peices.

Now damnit SB, just get me my IC.

 

[SlowboyCSE]

BaddAssGst - working on it bud! Thank you for your patientice!

Please note on tim's post (98talonAWD) that he purchased this core, not one of my direct kits because he needed 3" piping.

http://www.slowboyracing.com/more.php?id=3563&

This core isn't for your "first front mount job" if you know what i mean. As you can tell from tim's picture, bumper modifications have to be made and he made his own piping and mounting tabs. But if you want to spin a 42R like tim, you learn how to make things fit

Rock on!

Cragger

 

[JohnTSI]

So the monster core is the race core wth 3" piping? Those are the same dimentions as the race core from I can tell.


Monster core
"These cores are huge! Measuring at 24" long, 12" high and 3.5" wide. We have also stepped up the inlets and outlets and this bad boy, with 3" on both sides! Ohh oh my it's so big, yeah thats what she said."


1G race
"These cores are huge! Measuring at 24" long, 12" high and 3.5" wide. These aren't your average cores. If you are looking for a massive core you came to the right place!"


BTW I run the race core, it works very well.

 

[Black94DSM]

I also have the Race Kit on my car and i love it! I drove around without my bumper one day and when i pulled over i felt the hot side, it was cool to the touch, then reached over and felt the cold side, it had a very cold chill to it.....also condisation on it.

Only thing i have to complain about this kit is when you use it with the blow through maf set up. The TB elbow has to clear the battery so its pushed close to the motor....which makes the GM Maf have a hard time fitting there. Also its got a bad kink from the MAF to the pipe with the bov flange.

But all in all a great Kit! Well worth the money.

What i could suggest is using some of the bubble silicone connectors for the maf to upper pipe, so the angle will be taken up by that coupler.

 

[Black94DSM]

Oh yeah and another thing that i noticed is that in the section on slowboys site it says that you can keep your stock fog lights. I dont see how thats possible as i had to remove my bumper support beam. The fog lights are connected to that.

So maybe somebody from slowboy can help me understand how i can get my fogs back ?

 

[neuralracing]

Do we have to cut the bumper cover? I looked under there and there is a good chunk of the IC covered by the bumper. How do I know its not the street core? How did you clip the bumper... did you have to take it to a body shop afterwards to finish the edges?

 

[Black94DSM]

You do not have to actually trim your bumper cover, you can leave it stock. The only thing is that you will only expose the intercooler as big as the whole is in the bumper cover.

The Race IC is 12 inches high, the Street IC is just about 8 inches high, thats how you tell which one you have.

But you will have to remove your bumper beam.

Here is a pic of my Race core with no modification to the bumper cover (id rather not cut it)

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And here is a pic of the actual Core under it to show you how big the Race Core really is.

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