Runs bad after iridium NGK instal.

[lenny 15]

ok, this morning i installed my NGK iridium plugs, BPR6EIX to be exact. i gapped them to .28 and double checked all of them. the plugs that were in it before were autolites, and were hot plugs. i also cleaned the plug wires, and put them back on starting with 1 one, (that is the shortest one right?) and then 2, 3, and 4. i then started up the car and it started fine, but started idling at 1k RPMs, it was set at 750, so im like, wow, these plugs give a way better spark! i go inside for a little bit to let it warm up and come back out and its at like 740 RPMs and is sounding like a subaru or volkswagon. i rev it and it sounds just like a WRX with and exhaust... so i turn it off and push on all the wires to make sure that they are on, but it didnt do anything. is it anything to do with the plugs? it has been running without a boost controller for about two weeks, but im installing one tommorow, and i drive it easy so the boost doesnt get to high. recently the motor has started making a poping sound, not a backfire, just a pop, and the motor would pull harder for 1/4 of a second, that was before changing the plugs.

Thanks guys, i've never had anything like this happen, and it scares me since im getting ready for MOD on saturday

Hunter

 

[quattro527]

No problem always like to help, I just dont know why no one would of brought that up

No one brings these things up because it's sometimes the SIMPLIEST things that we always easily overlook that cause us the biggest headaches.

Luckily this is a an easy fix... try forgetting to put in a new crank seal after pulling out the new one because it's 5am and you've been up all night... Then when the timing belt is all done and the car is leaking oil like no other...

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[lenny 15]

yea, i need to go get a manual, it wouldnt have taken so long to figure out if i had one.

 

[Hardin]

I have irdiums on my vr-4...maybe you need to gap them...i donlt know

 

[GSTBlack95]

a little late, already got it figured out.

 

[quattro527]

The general rule of thumb for running Iridiums, is that you need one heat range colder just to equal the heat dissipating aspects of a copper plug. The #6 heat range plug you are using is TOO HOT, and you would need at least a #7 (colder) to compare the heat dissipating effects of a #6 copper. If you are running high boost or 16G and bigger, I would go with the #8 (BKR8EIX).

The "popping" sound you are hearing right now is pinging and slight preignition, from the plugs' lack of ability to pull heat away fast enough from the combustion chamber. This is happening due to two reasons: iridium is not as good as a heat carrier/conductor compared to copper, and the surface area of the "fine wire" iridium on the center electrode is much smaller than that of the a copper plug, meaning it will heat up faster, and cool down slower. This is why for every 1 step colder in a copper, go 2 steps colder in an iridium. If you follow this, these plugs will work very well and for a long time.

Those #6 plugs you have now...you basically went a heat range HOTTER than stock, which is why it runs like crap.

 

[turbotemper]

what do you mean? do you mean by puting the plug wires on wrong? on the distributor, i put 1 on first, then 2, then 3, and 4. with 1 being in the back towards the firewall. i put the autolites back on and gapped them to .32 and the problem is still there... im thinking i ruined the wires with the engine degreaser... please help

It has never happened to me when i use gunk foamy engine bright.

 

[chico904]

Wow, this was 3 years ago.

 

[turbotemper]

I didnt even look at the first post date

 

[quattro527]

I didn't look at the post date either, but for some reason it was listed on the TOP of my subscribed threads. I didn't catch it til after I posted...oh well.

Sorry guys. []

 

[B005T3D_1]

i didnt think you were supposed to "gap" irridium plugs, something to do with them being really sensative and possibly contaminating/breaking the tip off. im not assuming, just asking can anyone elaborate on this??