The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Rough idle after TB shaft seals

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

GSLENK

10+ Year Contributor
1,416
53
May 25, 2011
DC, Maryland
I Just did the TB shaft seals. I used the mil.spec variety, and with new gaskets. Everything went smooth. except of course i snapped a Butterfly screw, 30 mins and some cursing later I had it retapped to an american, common, thread size of 8-32.

I know you arent supposed to clean all of that grey gunk off (Butterfly seal) but i had to smudge at least half of it. I can see a little light through the TB edges but barely. and there is still some grey stuff there (i had to clean it along with some metal shavings from retapping...)

Anyways, my idle is not as smooth as before. Also i got way les vac. IIRC the factory boost gauge should be completely at rest (14 in) and my boost gauge should be around 19-20 (where it used to be before). Not the factory needle rests around 7-8 in and my gauge reads about 13-15. Is there anything I can adjust or do i have to muck up my TB a bit?
 
Last edited:
Who mentioned you're not supposed to clean off the throttle body? When I rebuild mine, I make them look better than new.

Are you positive you installed the new seals in the proper direction, as well as made sure they were fully seated in the recess?

Seeing a very tiny bit of light in the throttle body bore around the plate is normal.

Did you touch anything other than removing the springs, plate, and shaft, and reinstalling?
 
I havent done the leak test yet, that is next when it stops raining. however, the idle is rough at low, closed loop idle (7-800 rpm). During cold open loop, (1100+ maybe a little more) the idle is smooth and vac is 20 in. During closed loop if i hold the throttle to 1k rpm, still smooth and factory needle is at rest, boost gauge is at 20 in.
Also, my old TB seals were leaking ad I still got correct vac, and smooth idle
Still indicates a boost/vac leak?

(1)Who mentioned you're not supposed to clean off the throttle body? When I rebuild mine, I make them look better than new.

(2) Are you positive you installed the new seals in the proper direction, as well as made sure they were fully seated in the recess?

(3) Seeing a very tiny bit of light in the throttle body bore around the plate is normal.

(4) Did you touch anything other than removing the springs, plate, and shaft, and reinstalling?

1 I read in evonm forums while looking up seals. I always countered with, they dont come like that from the aftermarket, ( I think factory does use a grey film like material because my intake has very little black soot, and axhaust sure isnt grey, its black)

2 Yes here are the seals
MIL.SPEC HIGH Pressure Throttle Shaft Seals/100 Cell Cats are available - evolutionm.net
I sintalled them like any seal, rubber inside, metal outside. I used a wood block to set them flush, and then a nice 10mm socket to get them in the rest of the way. I used a rubber mallet and soctet 'til they went no further.

3 I was hoping so, the alternative could cause sticky plates i imagine.

4 I removed TPS, Springs, Plate, Shaft, Seals, Screws (snapped a screw removing it, drilled and retapped to another thread etc... no metal flakes either.)
I used marker to be sure the springs are wound correctly and the tps is aligned correct.

This was done immediately after a WBo2 install (innovate lc1, NB signal to ecu pin 4) and Hallman pro MBC, after the first 2 installs, car ran pretty well (im having a hell of a time with fuel cut and Adjusting boost without pulling my hair out, but thats another thread...) After the TB job, funky idle, it just alittle rough, reminds me of a plug out of gap, but it goes away at any rpm over idle.

This leads my to think its not a leak, or bad instal. But one or more of:
-TPS not set perfect (its damn close as far as my eyes and i took a million marks to line up)
-IAC valve (if we have something like that)
-BISS (i read something about this, could adjusting this fix it? I dont want a high idle though)
-Plate doesnt seal tight enough (think we ruled this out)

Also,
The AFR at idle is around 4.9-5.2 per WB. Smells really sulfuric. If i keep it pegged at 1k, the sulfur smell goes away and AFR is closer to 14.5 and lower.

I was also very liberal with silicone dielectric grease. I may have created my own TB plate seal which would cause less air than normal, and with the previous fuel trims at idle, there would be less air with same fuel causing a rich and rougher idle?

Just adjusted the TPS, .63 @ 0%, 4.97 @100%... and now my idle went from ok (a little rough) to fuccking horrendous. 500 to 2.5k surging. !#$@%$%@$%

Well after resetting the TPS, I half assed the the reinstall, and only tightened 1 bolt of the TB down. air was leaking past that hence the surge. Heck, the initial surge might have only been the fault of a simi loose TB (i doubt it bc i did tourque them all down after the TB seals install, just not after trying to reset the TPS recently)

So morale of the story, when testing the results of your work, you should reinstall 100%.

Idle is beautiful now

Thanks for the guidance although i did most of the troubleshooting my self, i did get some direction that kinda helped guide my research.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top