Rotor grinding against caliper

[DiamondStarAwd]

well last week i noticed my rotor was hitting my caliper. Last time this happened my wheel bearing had taken a crap on me. So I jacked the car up, grabbed the wheel at 6 and 12 and shook it, I had an enourmous amount of play, so I knew the wheel bearing was shot.

I just replaced that this morning. Went to put the wheel back on and tighten the lug nuts down. Mind you, the car is in the air so the rotor spins when you tighten the lug nuts. When I do this and you turn the rotor about 5 inches it rubs hard against the caliper on the top . Turn it back 5 inches its back to normal, turn it back another 5 inches and it rubs on the bottom of the caliper.

Does this sound more like a installation error or is there something else that would casue play in the rotor like that? Warped rotor?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Warped rotor can cause it or you got the bolts in the wrong places that hold the caliper on. One if a guide, one is for tightening. Also did you put the caliper on backwards somehow. I can't really see it bolting up wrong.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

so should I try switching the bolts that hold the caliper on the knuckle? I dont see how that could get it. But I will try. If that doesnt work I will swap rotors tommorow with the drivers side and see if it works.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

One bolts holds the caliper and one allows it to slide. But you say the rotor is hitting the TOP of the caliper? Did you replace just the bearing of the whole hub? Sounds like you didn't get the bearing pressure in straight.

 

[absolute_DSM]

I think he means its hitting on the top of the pad.

Tighten down the wheel (to spec) and then see if she still "rubs".


(and 95blackGsTurbo, you are all OVER this forum! I go into a post and youve already posted. You must be at work )

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Work? What's that. I work during the day as a technician but work has been slow so I have my laptop at work and play around there for a while. Perks of NOT working at a dealership. That and the huge pay increase .

 

[absolute_DSM]

Perks of NOT working at a dealership. That and the huge pay increase .

x2

Plus, add to that list - the feeling of not wanting to jump off the top of a lift onto your head.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

No it rubs the caliper. Metal on metal contact. I konw it still rubs when the wheel is tightened down b/c I tried to back out and it rubbed hard and stopped teh car in its tracks. I replaced teh whole hub with a wheel bearing already in from the dealership.


and I dont mean its hitting the top and bottom like moving. Its like the rotor is bent and is rubbing against the side of the caliper at the top and bottom. My work is closed today so in about an hour I am giong to switch rotors with the drivers side, if that doesnt work, I might even switch whole hubs to see if the bearing was pressed in straight

 

[91 Turbo Mitsu]

As some ofr the others have said it sounds like your bearing isnt pressed in square of did you by chance use a BMFH to remove the rotor and if yes you may have warped the rotor that way.When you swap the rotors this will tell you where your problem lies be it the rotor or bearing. Keep us posted. Travis

 

[oldman]

Grinding against the caliper or caliper bracket? If bracket, are you rubbing against the inside or outside of the bracket. Did you forget the c-clip when pressing in the new bearing? Did you check to see if the control arm is bent?

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Swapped the rotors today, seems to be that the rotor is in fact warped. Will a 90 awd rotor fit a 95 awd. I have drilled/slotted just sitting on the 90 awd not being used.

Old man, it was grinding against the bracket, on the outside. If you were looking at the rotor/caliper it was rubbing against the side nearest to you.

I kind of got distracted with pulling my 1g motor and tranny but a quick swap of the rotors revealed that they are in fact warped.

fyi I didnt press the bearing, I ordered a new hub from the dealership with it already pressed in

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

90-94 are the same, 95-97 are same and 98-99 are same on AWD DSM's so no.

 

[oldman]

1. 90'-92.5' AWD uses single piston calipers so the rotor is much smaller compared to 92.5' + dual piston caliper rotors.

2. The rotor should be right in the center of the caliper bracket, if it's off center something is wrong.

3. I suspect either your lower control arm is bent (that was my case) throwing off the position of the hub, something is missing in your bearing job or the axle nut wasn't properly torqued.

4. If the problem was just a warpped rotor, it must be really warpped to overcome the 1/4 inch gap on both sides.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Yea I just stuck the bad rotor on and it was grinding, I can visually see the rotor wobbling when I spin it.

I put the good rotor on the passenger side jsut to see if it was the bearing, it spun freely like it should. I put the bad rotor back on and it grinded. I took the bad rotor over to the drivers side and it still grinded. So I am in the market for new rotors.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Well I think I'm just going to get stock replacements. I cant afford to mod it cause christmas is right around the corner and I well, need a car to drive to st. louis with my g/f.

I usually order from the devil aka dealership. They want 75 for each rotor. Advance Auto Parts on the other hand said they carry them for 25. Hmmm anyone bought stock/oem rotors from them?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

You can get stock vented one's from NAPA for 28 each AAP should be fine.

 

[oldman]

What ever make you think drilled rotors is an upgrade anyway? If you're overheating your brakes, the key is in the pads.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Our local NAPA is a joke, its like trying to get warranty work done when you try and order anything from them.

Oldman- would you mind giving me a link explaining drilled/slotted/pads a little more in depth or possibly a quick explanation.

 

[oldman]

Drilled rotors are overrated and mostly for show, not only does it reduces contacting surface area, when improperly done, they're also known to easily warpped and cracked. Slotted on the other hand helps clear dust off the pads at the expense of the life of the pads. In most applications on the street, a set of good pads and a solid rotor it's all is needed.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

this makes no sense what so ever.

the new rotors scrap on BOTH sides. If I take the OLD drivers side rotor, it doesnt scrap on either side. If I take the old passenger side rotor it scraps on both. This is by far the most annoying thing ever. It makes no sense. I think I might have bent a suspenion part.

edit. I stuck a washer between the knuckle and the caliper bracket and it doesnt rub. I put the wheel on and the added weight makes it rub? BAH wtf is this.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

the car is horrible to drive, vibration in the steering wheel like none other. Can a wheel being out of balance casue it to hit like this?

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

No because the rotor and caliper are stationary while driving. If it rubs you most definately have a bent suspension piece like oldman suggested. Out of balance wheel will vibrate and get worse as speed increases but won't make your caliper hit your rotor.

 

[oldman]

Why are you driving the car knowing the rotors are rubbing? I really can't help you further without looking at the car, you should however bring the car back to satan since they did the bearing job.

 

[DiamondStarAwd]

Bah they didnt do the bearing job. I did. I just bought a hub and wheel bearing FROM THEM. I installed both my fronts and now this.

Im taking the car to good year to see if they can pin point what is wrong.

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

So it just started happening when you replaced the hubs? Are you sure you got an AWD hub then? If you have the reciept, call Mitsu. and ask them the part number and see if it matches. I have had parts guys tell me FWD, AWD are the same but they aren't.