Rear Rotor Grinding on Caliper Bracket

[92AndAHalf]

Just over the past couple of weeks I started to notice a grinding noise coming from my rear driver's side wheel. On closer inspection it seems as though the inside edge and top of the rotor is grinding against the caliper bracket.

Originally I thought I had a seized caliper, but the caliper piston moves freely and the slider bolts seem to move in and out properly.

Could this be a rear wheel bearing that's shot? Thanks.

 

[chaclark83]

Could be wheel bearing, but most likely its the brakes. You didnt say what the pads looked like. PULL THE CALIPER. It mite look ok from outside but still have rivets in the rotors.

 

[mjboehm]

most likely you need to changes your brake pads. how does th rotor look like any grooves?

 

[92AndAHalf]

I replaced the rotors and the pads today, and the old pads looked fine, but the old rotor was seriously warped and ground down on the back side. The other side of the car looks fine, as the caliper has enough clearance and the space between the caliper and the rotor is equal on both sides.

I've also noticed a bit of vibration now at higher speeds since it got bad. Also, I've taken note that on a right hand turn or under braking the noise goes away. On a left hand turn, the grinding noise does worsen a bit.

I'll take some pictures of the rotor and caliper to give a visual idea of what I'm talking about along with a comparison of the clearance on both sides.

 

[92AndAHalf]

Here are the pictures. You can see the gap difference between the Passenger Side Rear and the Driver's Side Rear.

Thanks guys!

 

[chaclark83]

Caliper bridge bolts. Or wheel bearing. Those are the only thing that can cause the caliper bridge to touch like that. Either way the wheel bearing is bad if its roaring at speed and going away when turning one direction and not the other.

 

[92AndAHalf]

I just noticed as well that the camber on the affected wheel is pushed in further than the unaffected side. Would this change the diagnosis at all?

Example: //--o--||

 

[chaclark83]

No. camber has nothing to do with it. Camber changes the angle of the entire assembly

 

[TALONTRAX]

In the first picture, that new rotor looks like the overall diameter is too big, like the outer rim of the rotor is contacting the caliper bracket ? ? ?

 

[92AndAHalf]

That's why I posted the picture. The rotor is making contact with the caliper bridge. The new rotor is the same as the old. I checked the diameter. I'm starting to lean towards a new rear wheel bearing... The only problem is I have to drive this car back and forth to work 20 miles each way for another week until I have the money.

 

[chaclark83]

Better replace that wheel bearing that aint no fun if they come off

 

[TALONTRAX]

That sucks man . . . Judging by the picture, it seems to be the outer edge of the rotor making contact. If you had a wheel bearing issue, the rotor would make contact on the side faces along the sides of the bracket. It looks to me like no matter where that rotor rides, it will rub at the outer edge (at the top)

 

[TALONTRAX]

Edit :

That rotor is brand new. Did this problem happen only after installing the new rotor ? It REALLY looks to me like the diameter is too large

 

[92AndAHalf]

No, the problem was there before the new rotor went in place. I replaced it under the assumption that the caliper was seized, however, it appears not to be the case now. I'm really wondering about the off camber on the affected wheel, and really wonder if this is because of a bad wheel bearing, because I know the wheel does move a bit when I take my hands to it.

Hrm. Thanks for the ideas guys, and if you have anymore I'd love to hear it. Trying to cover all bases, and get this stupid problem fixed. I'd take it to a shop around here, but I really don't trust anyone in the area.

 

[wret]

If it's a wheel bearing, you will most likely hear it more when cornering. This would cause the rotor to lean into the bracket.

 

[Big Woo]

Many times you can feel a bad wheel bearing, {(but not all)}.

Have you tried jacking up the rear of the car and leaving the rear tires and rims in place. Then grasp the tire and try to move it up and down and then side to side. If you feel any slop here you most likely have a bad wheel bearing.

If the wheel bearing is bad it can lead to an increase in negitive camber when the car is sitting on the ground any way.

 

[92AndAHalf]

Yep, there is play in all directions on the wheel. Also, when the car is jacked up and load is taken off the suspension and bearings, the rotor sits in it's proper place and does not make contact with the caliper bridge. I guess I'm gonna be replacing that wheel bearing!

Thanks for the info guys!

 

[luvmygst]

Untill you can get the wheel bearing replaced, tighten up the spindle nut. That will take some of the play out of it. Not a permanent fix, but it should last a couple of weeks. It will be better than a rubbing rotor. Be sure not to over tighten it it will make it go out faster, jst tighten it up enough to get some of the play out of it.

 

[Big Woo]

Of course if he keeps driving it (un-fixed) he may then need a new hub/spindle too.

 

[chaclark83]

Okay. Last time. WEEL BEARING IS BAD I PROMISE. I have been doing alignments and suspension for eight years. And yes it will rub on the top not the sides. Theres more foom on the sides.

 

[92AndAHalf]

Yep. Wheel bearing was absolutely trashed. Managed to get it into the shop this afternoon and had the bearings and oil seal replaced. Drives smooth as butter, camber is correct and the rotor now sits in there properly.

The state of the bearings when it all came out was horrifying.

I got everything done including parts, labor and tax for just over $200. Pretty sweet deal! Now I can go to work again

 

[chaclark83]

Just imagine what could have happend if you kept driving. Its never fun to see your wheel roll past you driving down the road