rod knock question

[jddelrosso]

Hello, my car is currently out of commision and im not sure if my issue is rod knock. I have been reading about rod knock and from what ive heard it should not really effect idle. My car will start up but it will not idle currectly, but it also sounds like crap when its running, sort of like knocking but not exactly. Any ideas would be great. thanks

Jeremy

 

[turborebel]

Check the oil and oil filter for bearing shavings. To open the filter without special tools I use a 3/4 inch chisel, a pair of meatal shears and a hammer. Let it drain twice into a towl or oil bucket. Drain once before opening and once after. Remove filter, let it drain. Open the filter on the side with the chisel and hammer. Let it drain. Use the metal shears to cut it apart. There will be alot of metal in there if your rod bearing has gone out.


brent

 

[Defiant]

Jumped timing.

 

[dsm-onster]

I second the motion: jumped timing.

 

[jddelrosso]

thanks guys, i am praying that it isnt the bearing so ill have to check the timing.

 

[blackgst256]

I was at the track and when i was going down about half way through the quarter my car started bucking and lost power and ran like garbage. The symptoms you said earlier are whats happening to me to it will start but wont keep running. If i leave the clutch pedal in it idles better but as soon as i let off it, it stalls i have no idea whats wrong with mine but it definitly sounds like what your going through to

 

[jddelrosso]

So the weather is finally nice enough to work on my car. ive got it off the ground and i started to line up the timing marks. first question is should the engine move freely around in its revolutions? when i was turning mine over it was easy to turn then hard, then easy and so on. also where is the timing mark for the crank pully. i cant find it.

thanks
Jeremy

 

[dieseltech]

Well you will come to a point where you fight compression pressures in the cylinder, which is a good thing. There is a notch on the crank pully, it's pretty small so keep your eye peeld. If you can, mark it with a paint pen so you can locate it easier next time.

 

[dsm-onster]

I use whiteout but what ever works.

 

[jddelrosso]

Well 1 day gone... I got some stuff done that i wanted to do, removed the charcoal canister, blocked off the egr valve, cleaned the intercooler and so on. I still have the problem, my timing seems to be fine, everything seemed to line up and the belt is tight as hell, but my car still runs crappy. I played with the CAS to see if that would help at all and it did make things run a little smoother but the car still doesnt want to idle. Whats odd is that now it will idle rough but at least idle and then every few seconds it will die a little and then come back. I pulled the spark plugs one by one and the car pretty much ran the same on 3 cyclinders as it did on 4. Im confused now as to what this could be. Oh yeah, and i drained my oil and there was no metal in it, but my car does now seem to be burning a little oil and im not sure if bad rings could make my idle go this crazy.

 

[dsm-onster]

I wouldn't monkey w/ the cas w/out a timing light and the timing terminal gounded. . . Did you checked your cam timing when combing over the engine bay?

 

[jddelrosso]

im not sure how to check the cam timing, ill have to look that up and check it on monday.

 

[jddelrosso]

PROGRESS!!! well not really, got the car running alright, went in to grab the datalogger and when i went to start it again it ran shittier then before. Because of this I start to play with MMCD and do the injector tests. I turn off injector one and the car falls on its face, when all of the other injectors turn off the car just dies a little. Im not sure if that means that injector one is bad or not? Also before all of this I checked the spark and was only getting good spark on 2 cyclinders, 4 and 2 i believe. I took out the coil pack and cleaned the insides out pretty good and now i have good spark on all 4 cyclinders. I have one question about the timing, after I hit TDC I hear a little gurgle, Im not sure if this has anything to do with the injector or not but i thought it was odd. Lastly when the car runs now you have to rev it to keep it alive, and when its coming down in the rpms it makes a funny grinding noise, not real bad but bad enough for me not to want to run the car anymore. Oh and lastly the MMCD sees the speed as rapidly changing when Im sitting still, not sure why that is or if it has anything to due with anything else. Any help with these probs would be great bc Im ready to dump the car off a cliff. Sorry about the randomness and Thanks


Jeremy

 

[dsm-onster]

PROGRESS!!! well not really, got the car running alright, went in to grab the datalogger and when i went to start it again it ran shittier then before. Because of this I start to play with MMCD and do the injector tests. I turn off injector one and the car falls on its face, when all of the other injectors turn off the car just dies a little. Im not sure if that means that injector one is bad or not?

That would mean that this cylinder is doing fine. It is firing properly if you unplug it and it doesn't want to run. This seams to endicate that the OTHER cylinders are running poorly.

Also before all of this I checked the spark and was only getting good spark on 2 cyclinders, 4 and 2 i believe. I took out the coil pack and cleaned the insides out pretty good and now i have good spark on all 4 cyclinders.

Good you found this. Now's the time to clean up every potential dilema.

I have one question about the timing, after I hit TDC I hear a little gurgle, Im not sure if this has anything to do with the injector or not but i thought it was odd.

Do you hear the same "knocking" that you heard before? gurgling indicates that pressure is going somewhere wet. Like a blown headgasket is releaseing air into the oil or into the coolant. . . You may have jumped your timing AND have ablown head gasket .

So what is the verdict on the cam timing. Have you jumped timing?

Lastly when the car runs now you have to rev it to keep it alive, and when its coming down in the rpms it makes a funny grinding noise, not real bad but bad enough for me not to want to run the car anymore.

Does it still miss when keeping her running?

Oh and lastly the MMCD sees the speed as rapidly changing when Im sitting still, not sure why that is or if it has anything to due with anything else. Any help with these probs would be great bc Im ready to dump the car off a cliff. Sorry about the randomness and Thanks


Jeremy

I don't know what to say about this one... never happened to me.

 

[jddelrosso]

Personally my belief also was that the other cyclinders were doing poorly, I guess new injectors are on the way?

Yeah, timing is dead on, i dont believe i blew the head gasket bc when i drained my oil just the other day it look like oil, nothing else, no milk no sparkles.

yeah, misses no matter what.

 

[dsm-onster]

Personally my belief also was that the other cyclinders were doing poorly,

Bent valves are suggested when all cylinders are acting poorly. . .

I guess new injectors are on the way?

Injector RARELY break. Perhaps a good cleaning. . . unless you're attempting to legitimize an upgrade .

Yeah, timing is dead on, i dont believe i blew the head gasket bc when i drained my oil just the other day it look like oil, nothing else, no milk no sparkles.

I've blown my gasket between cylinders where there was no oil or water passages. . . The only way to tell if it is a head gasket leak is to run a leakd down test and find out where the air is going (if there is a loss of compression). In the case i've mentioned you'll have to know where the cylinders are on their strokes to know what's going on. . .

A leak down test is what I ultimately recommend... Be sure to note exactly where the air is going, if there is a loss.

 

[jddelrosso]

I have another question, my car will only run if there is no mpi fuse in which i thought was weird. When i first bought the car I noticed this and replaced the fuse and when i would start the car I could take the key out and it would stay running, not sure if this has anything to do with anything.

 

[Turboeagletalon]

no mpi fuse. WHAT THAY DEFIES ARE ELECTRICAL... WELL EVERYTHING ABOUT THEASE CARS.

 

[dsm-onster]

I have another question, my car will only run if there is no mpi fuse in which i thought was weird. When i first bought the car I noticed this and replaced the fuse and when i would start the car I could take the key out and it would stay running, not sure if this has anything to do with anything.

Someone's monkied w/ your wiring harness!!!

 

[jddelrosso]

The previous owner jerry-rigged the rad fan to run all the time, but i thought that was all. Hows do i go about fixing the harness. Like what is the easiest way to find where it was changed?

 

[dsm-onster]

sucks to be you . I 'd just get a good volt/ammeter and go to town. . .

 

[jddelrosso]

you have any idea how the wiring could have changed to have this effect. I guess i would have to find an electronics wiz...

 

[jddelrosso]

So the wonderful results of the compression test are: 150 - 0 - 150 - 150

Cyclinder number 2 has NO compression... Wonderful.

One question I have is could this be caused by an injector leak? If not what could cause no compresstion outside of a headgasket? How big of a leak would it have to be to got 0 compression?

So a headgasket, timing belt, waterpump job is in the works I guess, hope that takes care of my problems non electrical.


Thanks

 

[jddelrosso]

I got another stupid question, when I was doing the compression test when the tool was in cyl #2 and I cranked the engine, it sounded different, not sure if that matters or if that is because of the lack of compression? thanks

Jeremy

 

[Turboeagletalon]

it sounded diffrent becayse you were putting a load on that cylinder. chanceds are thats your problem cylinder