Reverse lights repair n quick how too on soldering

[-Boosty-]

So I smoke my reverse and corner lights the other day, and discovered my reverse lights didnt work at all. So today i set out to find out why. I used the search bar and a thread to find where the reverse sensor was after i bought new lights and seen it wasnt them. I found the clip was completely missing and one connector was ruined. I rummaged threw my electrical drawer and found a fitting, then went to repair.

First thing i did was prep the wire, and connector for solder.

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THE CONNECTOR

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Take both wires and dip em in some flux, solder isnt gonna stick to it if you dont.

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I like to hold my wires vertical so the solder follows the flux and runs under the wire insulator

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Both wires prepped

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I shrink tube EVERYTHING, its a cheap way to ensure the connection will last and hold up to abuse, dont forget to put it on first, and keep it as far enough away from the solder joint to not shrink it.

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Then simply solder the two parts together, check all sides of the joint to make sure u got a cleanly soldered joint.

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Time to heat the tape.

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Finished product

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I plugged her in, and slapped some tape around it for some security, it wasnt the best tape job but it was tight quarters in there.

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AND VOILA

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Took me about 20 mins including taking the pics, and it should hold as long as i need it too. Any time you solder something i would advise these techniques, thanks for looking, go fix something.

 

[92AWDHX40]

Not bad, ive rewired my dsm pita but i learned a lot.

 

[-Boosty-]

Not bad, ive rewired my dsm pita but i learned a lot.

Nice, when i bought this i had to completely rewire the safc, and the avcr BACK into the car, he wired em, and when he ''blew it up'' which was actually a bad valve, he ripped em out to sell em, and by ripped i mean exactly that. I had 20 different wires and connectors and just everything i had to yank out, solder all back together, yadda yadda yadda. It was a nightmare and i have probably 20 hrs easy into doing it. Then rechecking everything else after seeing the trash under the dash. I mess with r/c's a lot so i have soldered just about anything u can imagine and it still sucked doing all that.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Looks functional enough. Certainly works and I can approve, but the joint is relying on the solder alone. I like to group the wires together and solder for a single joint instead of soldering them side by side. It looks much neater, anyhow.

 

[steve]

Make sure your using Rosin flux and not the Acid flux used for plumbing.

Like Keiya was getting at you want to first make a mechanical bond by twisting the wires together in a splice and then solder rather then just depending on the solder for the joint. If I get a chance I'll post some pictures.

 

[-Boosty-]

Make sure your using Rosin flux and not the Acid flux used for plumbing.

Like Keiya was getting at you want to first make a mechanical bond by twisting the wires together in a splice and then solder rather then just depending on the solder for the joint. If I get a chance I'll post some pictures.

I disagree with the neatness, and ive never had a solder joint fail when done correctly, chances are if your putting enough stress to make it fail, your wires will fail before the solder does. I like to make the bare wire as minimal as i can while still maintaining a good bond. If i twisted these together id have to have a bit more wire showing. But i am def open to opinions and learning, or seeing a different way has never hurt me before, please feel free to post pics, and constructive criticism is definitely welcome also.

+1 on the rosin this was a quick how too, so i wasnt gonna go into detail about what solder/flux combo to use.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

Heheh. We all have different techniques. I've practiced getting good bonds without flux. It's a little patience involved but once the copper is warm enough it'll accept the bond. What I like to do is fray the wire a bit and then loosely twist the wire. This allows the solder to not just coat the outside but also harden and bond with it between the individual threads so it becomes more like a solid joint. And with a steady hand you can coat the entirety of the wire and not just a little area.

We're not saying it's a bad thing you did! Just saying that you can increase the strength and reliability even more with a slightly different method.

 

[bryanwheat]

I haven't used flux in years, that stuff is bad on your lungs. If you just heat up the wire well the solder will stick to it just fine. Also as for this type of repair. You can solder the wires directly to the pins in the plug so that it looks like part of the factory harness.

 

[XiKeiyaZI]

+1.

Very true. Now using flux to remove solder makes a considerable difference. Hah.

 

[Blurred Talon]

I haven't used flux in years, that stuff is bad on your lungs. If you just heat up the wire well the solder will stick to it just fine. Also as for this type of repair. You can solder the wires directly to the pins in the plug so that it looks like part of the factory harness.

Same here, I only use flux on PCB soldering.

For connecting wires I usually twist them together, heat the wires with the iron and then touch the solder to the wire so it flows in (don't use too much of course).

I'd also recommend using Dual Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink, after using it now I'll never go back to the regular stuff, it's so much better and it's added security that the joint is water tight.

Plus owning a good iron is a HUGE plus. I love my Wellers!

 

[-Boosty-]

Heheh. We all have different techniques. I've practiced getting good bonds without flux. It's a little patience involved but once the copper is warm enough it'll accept the bond. What I like to do is fray the wire a bit and then loosely twist the wire. This allows the solder to not just coat the outside but also harden and bond with it between the individual threads so it becomes more like a solid joint. And with a steady hand you can coat the entirety of the wire and not just a little area.

We're not saying it's a bad thing you did! Just saying that you can increase the strength and reliability even more with a slightly different method.

using flux draws the solder into the wire and into the spaces in between each individual thread of wire, ive cut wire after soldering it and it looks like once solid piece of silver wire, since your not using flux tho i see how you would need to do that, and i know its not a bad thing, ive been doin it this way for 15+ years and have had great results. (thas why i still do it like this).

I haven't used flux in years, that stuff is bad on your lungs. If you just heat up the wire well the solder will stick to it just fine. Also as for this type of repair. You can solder the wires directly to the pins in the plug so that it looks like part of the factory harness.

I would LOVE to see you get the wire soldered to those pins, without removing anything but the air filter like i did. You do realize how far down inside the connector housing those tabs are right?

I'd also recommend using Dual Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink, after using it now I'll never go back to the regular stuff, it's so much better and it's added security that the joint is water tight.

Plus owning a good iron is a HUGE plus. I love my Wellers!

Ill have to look into that shrink tube, as for my iron, its and Edsyn and i can tune heat between 400 and 800 degrees, i love my iron.

thanks for the comments and advice guys

 

[bryanwheat]

using flux draws the solder into the wire and into the spaces in between each individual thread of wire, ive cut wire after soldering it and it looks like once solid piece of silver wire, since your not using flux tho i see how you would need to do that, and i know its not a bad thing, ive been doin it this way for 15+ years and have had great results. (thas why i still do it like this).



I would LOVE to see you get the wire soldered to those pins, without removing anything but the air filter like i did. You do realize how far down inside the connector housing those tabs are right?



Ill have to look into that shrink tube, as for my iron, its and Edsyn and i can tune heat between 400 and 800 degrees, i love my iron.

thanks for the comments and advice guys

It's easy, you take a pick and pop the pins out of the plug. Leave enough wire on the terminal to solder your wire to it. Solder it. Put some heat shrink on it than slide it back into the plug.

 

[ramsack]

I don't really understand why people use flux anymore for electronics. I've never used it once in my life and have never had a bad joint. It's called rosin-core solder. Flux is for stuff that takes forever to heat up. Larger, mechanical parts. If a piece of wire is so dirty that it needs flux, it's going to be so thin afterwards that it's just a bad piece of wire anymore, which is every wire under the hood of a DSM after 10-20 years. The wire will just be a brittle mess from then on.

 

[-Boosty-]

I don't really understand why people use flux anymore for electronics. I've never used it once in my life and have never had a bad joint. It's called rosin-core solder. Flux is for stuff that takes forever to heat up. Larger, mechanical parts. If a piece of wire is so dirty that it needs flux, it's going to be so thin afterwards that it's just a bad piece of wire anymore, which is every wire under the hood of a DSM after 10-20 years. The wire will just be a brittle mess from then on.

i use flux on all my stuff, and it works great, whats wrong with drawing the solder into the wire a little more, and why the #### are people so against it? Is there like a giant coalition of people proposing a ban on flux? You use your rosin-core solder, im alright with that, so be alright with me using my flux. Thanks.

 

[4g63tc]

Same here, I only use flux on PCB soldering.

For connecting wires I usually twist them together, heat the wires with the iron and then touch the solder to the wire so it flows in (don't use too much of course).

I'd also recommend using Dual Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink, after using it now I'll never go back to the regular stuff, it's so much better and it's added security that the joint is water tight.

Plus owning a good iron is a HUGE plus. I love my Wellers!

exactly how I do it, I too Own a Weller soldering, and de-soldering station.

I love that heat shrink, have a link on where to get it?


Weller EC2002M ESD safe too!

 

[bryanwheat]

You realize that the rosin is flux right? Any rosin core solder already has the right amount of flux built into it. This is why fresh solder flows so much better than old solder joints. For fresh wire flux isn't really even needed because there is little oxide on the surface of the wire. As the wire gets older the surface becomes covered with a copper oxide which solder doesn't stick to well. The flux just cleans the oxides from the surface than boils off of the solder.

 

[-Boosty-]

You realize that the rosin is flux right? Any rosin core solder already has the right amount of flux built into it. This is why fresh solder flows so much better than old solder joints. For fresh wire flux isn't really even needed because there is little oxide on the surface of the wire. As the wire gets older the surface becomes covered with a copper oxide which solder doesn't stick to well. The flux just cleans the oxides from the surface than boils off of the solder.

yes i know what rosin is, as for the rest of the crap u said, i didnt know, when i heat the flux it melts down inside the rubber insulator which then draws the solder further down the wire, that way the wire doesnt just bend at the end of the insulator possibly breaking later on. If i dont use flux, and just use the rosin core solder, it doesnt draw it as far down into the wire, which is why i said i like to hold my wire vertical. I get what you guys are all saying, but your probably not gonna change my mind on something that doesnt do any harm and actually helps me solder. If the cons outweighed the pro's id reconsider.

 

[steve]

I get what you guys are all saying, but your probably not gonna change my mind.

We already figured that out.

 

[-Boosty-]

We already figured that out.

I validated my reasoning did i not?

 

[NHerron]

I don't see a problem using additional flux if you want to although rosin core already has flux built in hence, rosin. And as far as the mechanical strength goes that's how most techs are taught through ASE certs or engineering by twisting the wires first in some fashion. The heat is what carries the solder through the wire not flux. Even heard of 'sweating a pipe'? Or what the cause of a cold solder joint is?

 

[bryanwheat]

I don't see a problem using additional flux if you want to although rosin core already has flux built in hence, rosin. And as far as the mechanical strength goes that's how most techs are taught through ASE certs or engineering by twisting the wires first in some fashion. The heat is what carries the solder through the wire not flux. Even heard of 'sweating a pipe'? Or what the cause of a cold solder joint is?

Correct. Twisting the wires together gives it a ton more strength. the wires are separately connected to the wires in the other wire. If you just lay them together than the only thing connecting the each other is a chunk of solder.

 

[-Boosty-]

I don't see a problem using additional flux if you want to although rosin core already has flux built in hence, rosin. And as far as the mechanical strength goes that's how most techs are taught through ASE certs or engineering by twisting the wires first in some fashion.

I agree with this, but the flux does allow the solder to flow better instead of bead up as it sometimes does. I just hear people saying "don't use flux" over and over but not giving me any reasons not to use it, almost making it as tho im wrong for doing so. Is there a drawback to using flux with a rosin core solder? I'm just looking for something to back up the statement.

Correct. Twisting the wires together gives it a ton more strength. the wires are separately connected to the wires in the other wire. If you just lay them together than the only thing connecting the each other is a chunk of solder.

That is surely beneficial in some instances, but I'm soldering something with a connector on it, I could twist those wires till my face is blue and solder them till it's purple the weak point is gonna be where that connector plugs into the male end, not to mention that I don't expect my reverse light wires to see a ton of high stress situations.

 

[NHerron]

Nothing wrong with it, its just time consuming (on the job) and sometimes messy for pretty much no benefit

 

[bryanwheat]

Some rosin solder is more corrosive than others, so extra residue after can lead to the joint corroding over time. I think the point that people are making is that you can use it, but that you can get a perfectly good joint without it.

Also you titled this thread how to solder also. You mentioned that the solder will not stick without flux. That is misleading. You also didn't demonstrate how to make a proper joint between 2 wires. Usually when someone does a write up, the information should be good information.

 

[-Boosty-]

Some rosin solder is more corrosive than others, so extra residue after can lead to the joint corroding over time. I think the point that people are making is that you can use it, but that you can get a perfectly good joint without it.

Also you titled this thread how to solder also. You mentioned that the solder will not stick without flux. That is misleading. You also didn't demonstrate how to make a proper joint between 2 wires. Usually when someone does a write up, the information should be good information.

Title said "quick" how too, not a full on in depth how too, not to mention this was a circumstantial solder, not a general "solder every wire like this" instance. Threw in one small line about it not sticking without flux my bad. That joint is FAR BEYOND the strength it needs to be in this application. I'll get back to this thread in two years and show how well that joint has held up. This was no where near a write up, it was a quick fix and sharing of techniques. If you don't think the information is good then move on. I'm not showing the wrong way to do something, it's a different way, that still nets great results.