[RESOLVED] URGENT! Timing belt slip while changing

[ab dsm]

It happened . Worst nightmare, Wisemen needed ASAP.
Anyone in Newmarket/Aurora area willing to help, please text or call my cell phone ASAP : (289)221-3248.
While changing my belt I took every single precaution to make sure the belt did not slip and all marks were perfectly aligned as I KNOW the importance of the belt and how any slight mistake can be a worst nightmare.
Getting down to it, I had presumed the lower section of the belt which loops around the oil pump and crank sprockets needed to be straight and tight, NO tiny loop. By tiny loop, I mean slight slack created when it is one notch looser between the oil pump and crank sprocket. Upon further inspection of video tutorials which I had watched a bunch of times, I see a small loop, (the belt is tight, but not as tight as I had it)... Consequence: when tensioning the belt and at the step of 'turn a quarter counter clockwise then back clockwise to the starting position where all timing marks line up'; I had just started to turn the crank counter clockwise when what seemed to be working stretched the belt a little and due to the slack of the one notch off, the crank turned one extra notch counter clockwise while the belt remained stationary.
In panic, I went to loosen the tension on the belt as to be able to return the crank back into the position it was just prior to slipping the one notch. In doing so, the belt loosened off the cam gears and I think that is when I died inside.
Right now, I have returned the belt onto the cam gears positioned as they were before the belt cam off them, and inserted the jay racing position holder so they will no longer move, but that was some scary sh*t because they moved while I was trying to put it on. They have returned to the correct position now though.
My new problem is this (with the timing belt on the system of gears and sprockets) I am not sure if the oil pump sprocket moved a notch from where it was just prior to slip while I was reinstalling my timing belt onto the cams, and I have turned the crank sprocket what I believe is one notch clockwise again to where I believe is the position it would have been in just prior to slip. BELIEF AND KNOWING are two VERY different things and I'm scared sh*tless of doing anything more without screwing up even more than I have.
I'm kicking myself for not just paying to get this done now and I have no idea where to begin fixing it, or if it can be fixed at all. ANY HELP WOULD BE EXTREMELY APPRECIATED, in person, via forum, anything, please someone help, I am staying by my computer. Even if it is to arrange to come help this week sometime, please call or text, I need help!
I have attached pictures of the CURRENT positions of the cam gears, oil pump and crank sprocket. NOTE: the crank was not turned more than 30 degrees overall (NEVER once around).
My main question here: is the crank and oil pump sprocket in the correct position relative to the cam gears? Or does the oil pump need to be one more notch counter clockwise, and is the crank even near where it should be?
FML please help ASAP

 

[snowborder714]

You can get the oil pump marks closer.
The crank is way off. You can see the notch in the trigger plate at around 8 o'clock. That lines up with the small piece of metal off the bolt that's around 10 o'clock.

 

[ricktb]

there should be a procedure to line everything up when everything else is at random positions, I'd pull the belt off and start from square one. it not like the engine will explode if the timing isnt lined up, you just dont want to turn the engine over like that, or force the crank if it wont turn by hand.. no forcing anything. Keep a cool head, think things through... I think there is a VFAQ on this topic, step by step..

something like, line the two top cams with indicator marks aligned, clamp the belt across the tops with no slack, and then work your way down and around clockwise, one pulley at a time, confirm each pulley is in the correct positions as you go, taking up slack as you go, each one should have its own indicator. The final pulley should be the tensioner pulley with all the slack here, and then once tensioned no more slack anywhere. Final check of all indicator marks once tensioned, and you should be on the money. some pulleys turn 6 times for one turn of another pulley, you have to check each one carefully. I'm no expert, please do more reseach as well.

 

[ab dsm]

Thanks buddy, but I mean my belt slipped while I was changing it. I went to do the quarter back-quarter forward turn to tension the belt in the VFAQ when my belt slipped. The belt slipped one tooth while already being displaced from all timing marks lining up. It was TDC when I started, then everything moved well for a smidgen of turn, then it slipped. Now gotta line up my crank sprocket and oil sprocket with the current position of my cam gears and not sure how...


is it ok if i take the belt off and then line the crank and oil pump sprocket timing marks then re a line the cam gears and start fresh?

 

[SrKegler]

Cams are about 2 teeth off, crank is off, balance shaft is off.

Heres what I would do.

1. Insert your threaded rod and push the tensioner down until it bottoms.
2. Remove the belt.
3. Position the crank about 1/2 tooth before the timing mark. On a 2G I believe its about 10:00.
4. Remove the piece you have holding the cams in place.
5. Rotate the exhaust cam clockwise until the timing mark is at 3:00 with the dowel pin up.
6. Leave the 17mm wrench on the exhaust cam, then rotate the intake cam until the timing mark is at 9:00.
7. The marks won't line up perfectly, position both wrenches so you can use one hand and squeeze them together until the marks are perfectly pointing at each other, then place that plastic piece in between the cams to hold them in place. Release the pressure on the wrenches and check to make sure they are aligned.
8. Put the timing belt on both cam shafts and feed it around the idler pulley. I usually put a zip tie around the belt and the exhaust sprocket to keep the belt in place.
9. Make sure the oil pump sprocket is in phase and then rotate it about 1/2 tooth counter clockwise.
10. Feed the belt around the oil pump pulling the slack out of the belt. With the belt tight, you will have to rotate the oil pump sprocket back that 1/2 tooth clockwise to get the belt to slide on.
11. Stick the spring type clothes pin between the bottom of the belt and the bottom of the front case to hold it in place.
12. Feed the belt around the crank sprocket. Again pull the slack out of the belt and rotate the crank 1/2 tooth again to get it to slide on the sprocket. Jam another clothes pin between the belt and the housing to hold that in place.
13. Now feed the belt around the tensioner pulley.
14. Remove the zip ties and clothes pins.
15. Here's where I m not too sure on a 2G.
16. You need to apply 2.5 ft pounds on tension on the belt. Most people don't have an inch lb torque wrench.
17. What I do is place a feeler guage inbetween the tensioner top (not on the pin) and the tensioner arm and rotate the tensioner pulley until I feel resistance on the feeler guage. Tighten the tensioner bolt.
18. Loosen the threaded rod and count the turns. If the tensioner is adjusted within specs, it will take 3 1/2 to 4 turns (threads). If it takes less than 3 1/2 turns, the tension is too tight. If it takes more than 4, the tension is too loose.
On my 1G the hole in the tensioner pulley is slightly past 12:00. I believe your 2G tensioner is rotated counter clockwise to tighten so I can't give you an idea where the holes should end up.
19. If everything seems to be in spec, rotate the crank 6 turns and recheck all timing marks to see if they are still lined up. If they aren't you had slack in the belt and will need to redo everything from scratch.
20 Assuming everything is still aligned, wait about 30 minutes, then use the feeler guage and check the clearance. I use the small feeler guages so they will fit into that tight space.

Hope this helps.

 

[DSM1491]

When you have the belt on the cam gears and have them lined up correctly with the belt on, you can put clips on the cam gears so that the belt can stay in place and keeps the cam gears from slipping. And have you considered doing a balance shaft delete? It would make it so much easier for you. In my opinion.

 

[954g63gst]

Ya all those timing marks are off.

 

[SrKegler]

When you have the belt on the cam gears and have them lined up correctly with the belt on, you can put clips on the cam gears so that the belt can stay in place and keeps the cam gears from slipping. And have you considered doing a balance shaft delete? It would make it so much easier for you. In my opinion.

The only problem I found with using the clips was they would pop of when I pulled on the belt. Zip ties are cheap and don't let the belt slip.

I agree on the BS delete. The 1.6 stubby shaft is a perfect replacement. Just leave the front shaft in place. Lot cheaper/ easier than removing both shafts and then having to fight high oil pressure.