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[RESOLVED] Dipstick reads zero oil but gauge reads plenty

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sliver

10+ Year Contributor
92
0
Aug 25, 2008
me, Texas
I was chcking my oil levels because I am leaking a little by the oil pan. Dipstick isn't even getting wet on cold engine. But the gauge reads pressure and the needle is right in the middle. Even after it's been running I check the dipstick again, wipe it off, and still no oil.

Anyone know why?
 
I would start by letting the car warm up to operating temperture.
Then check the oil make sure to push the dipstick all the way down.
If there is still no oil on the stick you need to add some.
Also change your oil pan gasket. Leaks are no good.


Dont go by your gauge for how much oil is in there. Your dipstick is there for a reason.
 
My gauge has always been accurate,why would it fluctuate around the mid area so much if there was no oil?

The leak seems to be coming right under the rear main seal housing. As the pan and housin are connected. I just replaced the seal because it was leaking so I really hope the seal isn't the issue. I tightened the pan just enough too.

One of the bolts that connects the seal housing to the block did break off because my wrench had too much leverage.
 
My gauge has always been accurate,why would it fluctuate around the mid area so much if there was no oil?

The leak seems to be coming right under the rear main seal housing. As the pan and housin are connected. I just replaced the seal because it was leaking so I really hope the seal isn't the issue. I tightened the pan just enough too.

One of the bolts that connects the seal housing to the block did break off because my wrench had too much leverage.

Hence why you use a torque wrench. I'v seen a bunch of oil pans all warped from people tightening the pan bolts to much. This could also be part of reason your still leaking oil.
 
The gauge is strictly for oil pressure, it has nothing to do with your oil level. Make sure you have oil on the dipstick. To let you know how bad it suck too, I installed a real mechanically gauge in my car awhile ago, so the stock one isnt hooked up at all, and the needle will go from all the way left to all the way right for no reason, it has a mind of its own even when its unhooked.
 
My 'wrench' was my torque wrench. I used it only on the rear main seal housing bolts. What's weird is it said it needed 100+ft/lbs of torque to it, but heavy duty bolts like the flywheel needed less than half that amount. That's why a bolt snapped on the seal housing. Only the head part broke off the rest is still in there so I'm hoping that'll hold it. Not trying to sound in denial just giving myself a little more hope.

I had taken the transfer case/downpipe off and tightened the oil pan bolts pretty good. put it back on and it's a slow drip now. It's only coming from one area, I had cleaned everything off with brake cleaner so it's pinpointed.
 
That's why a bolt snapped on the seal housing. Only the head part broke off the rest is still in there so I'm hoping that'll hold it. Not trying to sound in denial just giving myself a little more hope.


Time to get out the heli-coil.
 
I'm not sure what could cause a dipstick to read wrong but oil levels is not something you want to guess with. I'd drain what's in there and fill it up with fresh oil and go from there.
 
My 'wrench' was my torque wrench. I used it only on the rear main seal housing bolts. What's weird is it said it needed 100+ft/lbs of torque to it, but heavy duty bolts like the flywheel needed less than half that amount. That's why a bolt snapped on the seal housing. Only the head part broke off the rest is still in there so I'm hoping that'll hold it. Not trying to sound in denial just giving myself a little more hope.

I had taken the transfer case/downpipe off and tightened the oil pan bolts pretty good. put it back on and it's a slow drip now. It's only coming from one area, I had cleaned everything off with brake cleaner so it's pinpointed.

100ft lbs, where did you read that at or did it talk to you? That's way off the rear main seal housing bolts are only 7-9 ft lbs, And the flywheel half that? I hope you don't put your flywheel on with only 50 ft lbs or else say good bye. Your flywheel should be at about 100 ft lbs. Here a link that might help you. Volume 1 is the mechanical and volume 2 is the electrical.
Free DSM manual: Volume-1 Service Manual Plymouth Laser, Eagle Talon 1990-1991.pdf OnlineFreeEBooks.net the most imitated free ebook site
 
Time to get out the heli-coil.

He shouldn't need a helicoil, if all he did was snap off the head. A screw or bolt extractor kit would of fix that in less the a 10th of the time it would to pull it all apart again. I cant conceive trying to justify not fixing it while it was apart the fist time? I tell you what after i got my extractor and ez outs set i kind of get excited when i get to use them.:D
 
I'm not sure what could cause a dipstick to read wrong but oil levels is not something you want to guess with. I'd drain what's in there and fill it up with fresh oil and go from there.
Simple

You could be 2 quarts low on oil and still have proper oil pressure at idle conditions, and even 4000+ RPM highway conditions. The oil pan is baffled/sumped and the oil pump pickup is located at the lowest point of the pan, where all the oil accumulates as it falls. As long as there is oil in this sump, the pump will provide pressure to the rest of the motor.

THE PROBLEM is that, when you are 2 quarts low, there may not be enough oil that falls back in the sump when you are make right/left turns or if you are under heavy braking/acceleration. This is when you will suddenly lose oil pressure when the pump sucks up air, instead of oil. Not a good thing.

High HP, high traction DSM's have this problem even when the oil levels are within specs. If you were able to datalog oil pressure during a good launch, you will notice that the G's produced in the launch actually allow the oil to be pushed all the way to the back of the pan, and starve the oil pump for a split second.

It is very important for you to have the proper amount of oil in the motor.
 
100ft lbs, where did you read that at or did it talk to you? That's way off the rear main seal housing bolts are only 7-9 ft lbs, And the flywheel half that? I hope you don't put your flywheel on with only 50 ft lbs or else say good bye. Your flywheel should be at about 100 ft lbs. Here a link that might help you. Volume 1 is the mechanical and volume 2 is the electrical.
Free DSM manual: Volume-1 Service Manual Plymouth Laser, Eagle Talon 1990-1991.pdf OnlineFreeEBooks.net the most imitated free ebook site

Haynes Manual 2A-3

Flywheel bolts 94 to 101

Rear main oil seal retainer bolts 84 to 144 in-lbs


The numbers I threw out earlier was just off the top. But I did torque according to specs.
I see where I might have miscalculated..is in-lbs a different reading than ft-lbs? Is it reduced by 12 since 12 inches in 1 foot? Either way after that one got snapped off I used a regular ratchet and tightened pretty good without overtightening.

Thanks for the tips, I'll just replace the oil pan with new gasket material and see if that fixes it. If not I know what it is.
 
very simple,drain oil,change filter.put new filter on,put 5 quarts oil in.pan holds 4-1/2 quarts and filter holds 1/2 quart,see what it reads.if no oil on dipstick,dipstick is bad because someone messed with it.the motor holds 5 quarts of oil period.had it happen before.
 
To let you know how bad it suck too, I installed a real mechanically gauge in my car awhile ago, so the stock one isnt hooked up at all, and the needle will go from all the way left to all the way right for no reason, it has a mind of its own even when its unhooked.

That has nothing to do with the gauge being good or bad, it just means the wire is touching something, grounding it out and making the gauge go up.
 
Just how does a dipstick "go bad"? It's a metal stick. I could understand if someone was to use one that is far to short, or use a dipstick that was bent and couldn't reach far enough, but one going bad? Add some add some oil to that thing, or better yet, change it if your anywhere close to changing time. Then see what your oil level is. Oil pressure and oil level are different things. I bet your just really low, which isn't something that one should mess with. A girl here had a 02 spyder and ran the oil out of it. Ruined the engine. It's just a pretty white car sitting at a car wash waiting for some poor soul to buy it now.
 
Just how does a dipstick "go bad"? It's a metal stick. I could understand if someone was to use one that is far to short, or use a dipstick that was bent and couldn't reach far enough, but one going bad? Add some add some oil to that thing, or better yet, change it if your anywhere close to changing time. Then see what your oil level is. Oil pressure and oil level are different things. I bet your just really low, which isn't something that one should mess with. A girl here had a 02 spyder and ran the oil out of it. Ruined the engine. It's just a pretty white car sitting at a car wash waiting for some poor soul to buy it now.

A metal dipstick does not go bad, because of some dummy modifying the crank or forgets the inner dipstick tube and thinks he knows what he is doing - that is how things get messed up, so he shaves the dipstick down to get it to work.
 
If your dipstick is not reading any oil you are at least a quart low. If you're going to be dropping the oil pan to replace the gasket check for metal shavings.
 
Lol. It was a redundant question. Its funny how stuff happens when someone thinks they know what they're doing, huh? (That was a redundant question as well) Thats why I come to this site before I do anything, because w/o it I wouldn't have a clue. LOL
 
You guys really are trying to kill me, aren't you?

The gauge reads only pressure. You're two quarts low. Re-fill.

100 foot-pounds?

Nevermind. The neighbor's dog says I have to go clean and oil the firearms. Again.
 
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