Aftermarket oil pressure gauge reads 100 psi

[VPrime]

Icon 1 posted June 08, 2006 02:50 PM Profile for Murtaza Saadat Email Murtaza Saadat Send New Private Message Edit/Delete Post Reply With Quote Okay i need some help here.... im 100% sure this isnt accurate as before my oil pressure was under the middle line on the stock gauge.

Any ways heres whats happeneing:
I installed my electic oil pressure gauge + sending unit today. I couldnt get the hex bolts off the oil filter housing and my teacher told me that it could crack if i try really hard, so i gave up there. Then I figured i'd just take my OEM sendiing unit off, and put my aftermarket in its place. So i did that and wired up the aftermarket gauge to the sending unit, and i even put the oem wire on the aftermarket sending unit hoping it would be close enough.
Any ways after turningt he car on the aftermarket gauge goes past the 100PSI mark, and the OEM gauge goes up the the H.

No dummy lights or any thing are on.

before this every thign was fine.
Is there something i could have screwed up on?
Also could I just use my oem sending unit witht he aftermarket gauge and get an accurate result?

Thanks.

 

[carl5463729]

I have a mechanical oil pressure gauge. i took out the stock pressure sensor for mine and mine goes past 100psi also. since i disconected the stock one i can't remember if it ever went up to H. but now i'm just going to get a 150psi mechanical oil pressure gauge.

 

[VPrime]

hmm, but I read that there should only be like 30 psi at idle.. and even my teacher said around 30 psi.

 

[sk8shorty01]

but now i'm just going to get a 150psi mechanical oil pressure gauge.

Well the gauge is going to show you centered if you did that, but it is still not accurate and you would not be able to identify problems as easy when your gauge is showing such a wide scale of pressures. Gauges are worthless if they arent reading correctly and are not accurate so why not just take it out all together rather then buying another gauge that is still going to be wrong? Just wondering because by what you said that doesnt really make sense as too how that would solve your problem. I could be misunderstanding you though. Please elaborate more if i am not catching your drift.

 

[daren_p]

You said you hooked the wires up from the stock gauge up to the sending unit as well? If so disconnet them & see what happens. You may have screwed up the sending unit or gauge by doing this. As for oil pressure you can see 100 psi when you first start the car at higher rpms under load till the oil warms up (especially if the balance shafts are removed) but no it shouldn't be 100 psi at idle, even when cold.

 

[VPrime]

You said you hooked the wires up from the stock gauge up to the sending unit as well?

yes.. thats exactly what i did ... i asked my teacher and he said it would be ok... but i guess not. ill try taking it off tomorrow and running a single gauge until i get a T fitting. hopefully it works

 

[mavisky]

Your teacher is an idiot. Hook one wire to the aftermarket sending unit. You don't need two guages anyways. So long as you didn't unhook the other sending unit your idiot light will still come on as well.

 

[VPrime]

Your teacher is an idiot. Hook one wire to the aftermarket sending unit. You don't need two guages anyways. So long as you didn't unhook the other sending unit your idiot light will still come on as well.

i did unhook the other sending unit (I couldnt get the hex screws or what ever out.. so i put the aftermarket in its place)
Thanks guys i will take the stock wire off tomorrow in class.

As for why i would want 2... really its just that i dont like things not working on my car .... i guess my whole every thing working idea backfired

 

[mavisky]

Look at mine here. The big gold canister is where the old stock guage sending unit used to go, this is the new unit for the Autometer guage and I have only the Autometer guage hooked to it. Just on the other side of the turbo feed line fitting is the sending unit for the idiot light which is still hooked up as well.

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[VPrime]

ohh ic, thanks! makes sense now.
ill report back tomorrow with an update once i get the other wire off. Also... how hot does the oil pan get? because the wire for the sending unit is running just under it... i shouldnt be in any real dangr right?

 

[mavisky]

It shouldn't get so hot as to cause you damage to the wiring. you can see here how I run mine. Right up along the factory wiring harness.

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[VPrime]

Okay took the stock gauge wire off the aftrermarket sending unit and it works. (actually i couldnt get the nut holding the wire on off, so I just cut the wire..)
BUT... my oil pressure at idle when i start up is just under the 25PSI mark, and at WOT it goes to 100PSI (roughly 80km/hr), as i decelerate it goes to 75, than keeps dropping as RPMS go lower. Than after this again at idle the gauge reads like just above 0 PSI.. (its not pointing at 0, but a notch away from it)

any ways is this normal? I thought idle should be 30psi?
I want to get my stock gauge hooked up again to compare........but until then i figure i'd ask here.

Thanks again.

 

[mavisky]

Sounds just like mine. If you've removed the balance shafts and not ported the opening on the oil filter housing then you'll often see pressure above 100psi and as low as 10 or so at idle.

 

[VPrime]

hmm i havnt done that, my car is pretty much stock still. But the car runs the same so i guess it is the same as I was always getting.

 

[daren_p]

The oil pump is rpm driven (timing belt), so the higher the rpm the higher the oil pressure. When the car is cold I see around 30 psi but once it warms up I see about 13 psi at idle. When the car is cold I see close to 100 psi on acceleration, same thing once it warms up it drops abit.

 

[~laser_craver~]

Iono why but ever since I swapped my motor into the fwd it has outragueously high oil pressure. Like the gauge is always at the high warning mark or just to the left or right of it.... Any ideas why? The oil level is perfect and there are no restrictors what so ever....

 

[pnishr]

Is it a new/rebuilt motor, or just in a different car? What oil are you running. when I got my new motor put in, I used the "recommended" 20w50, which obviously was WAY thick, and my pressure was pretty damn high. I switched to 10w40 at the 2nd oil change (200miles) and 10w30 at the 500. It was still pretty high, but I think it finally settled down a bit.

 

[GVR4592]

Did you remove the balance shafts?

 

[dnhieu]

did you remove the oil squirters? are you using a n/a block?

 

[TSIAWDTalon]

I have a Auto Meter Mech. gauge and it reads almost 100 psi at start up, but once it warms up it reads normally untill idle, where it reads about 4 psi. *Balance shafts have been removed* These cars have a reputation for having low oil pressure at idle. Maybe you should get another gauge so you can accurately measure it.

 

[dnhieu]

my buddies built 2g reads over 100psi at start up and when it warms up it goes back to normal...

 

[topstreet]

My motor puts well over 100psi down when cold and above 3k rpm.

 

[oldman]

If this is the result of BS removal, the oil pressure relief valve is being overrun and porting the outlet path of the relief valve will help or solve the problem.

 

[MXD]

Yup mine too is about a hundred at start up and about 20-25 at idle.

 

[~laser_craver~]

Nope i still have balance shafts and this motor was pulled outta wrecked talon had 80k miles on it.... iono what the heck it is. Im runnin 10w40. Someone was telling me the oil pressure sensor could be worn out broken etc. Iono. Im lost, the oil pump looks brand new to me. But id like to get it fixed while i have the whole front side of the motor off trying to build a 02 housing and ext. mount on manni