[RESOLVED] 2g Wheel bearing

[Viper588]

Hello i am in the middle of replacing the front passenger side wheel bearing in my 95 Eclipse GS... I am a little confuse abotu a couple of things....The first is how can i get the 4 bolts holding the wheel bearing hub to the knuckle, there is no room for a socket to fit and tried an open ended and wouldnt budge... The second question is will i need a puller to remove the hub/bearing once i finally get the bolts off? Thanx

 

[bjbaxter]

the smart thing to do is to loosen the nuts up on both lower control arms while the tireis still on and the car is sittin on the ground, that way there is pressure on the ball joint and you dont have to worry about turning the ball joint when you loosen the nuts. just turn the wheel all the way in and reach around it with a wrench. i've done it numerous times and it hasn't failed me yet.

 

[Viper588]

ok well so far all the help has been great =) i have gotten the hub assembly off but it is still attached to the metal piece that it was bolted too even though the screws have been removed ... i see people have posted that it is a PITA to get it separated but what finally worked to get it off for you, tried searching for a puller but the one i see cost more than i paid for the part itself and it doesnt make much sense to me to buy a tool that cost more than the new piece itself rofl...

 

[wret]

So lemme get this straight: the doohicky is still connected to the thingy?

You need to be a little more specific. The hard part for most (easy for others) is getting the splined axle separated from the hub/bearing assembly. Once that's done, and the bolts are removed from the back, the hub/bearing can be tapped out from the back of the knuckle.

 

[luv2rallye]

ok well so far all the help has been great =) i have gotten the hub assembly off but it is still attached to the metal piece that it was bolted too even though the screws have been removed ... i see people have posted that it is a PITA to get it separated but what finally worked to get it off for you, tried searching for a puller but the one i see cost more than i paid for the part itself and it doesnt make much sense to me to buy a tool that cost more than the new piece itself rofl...

The 1" puller CTA4320 is rented for $4 (not bought) from a auto/truck tool rental place but this is to push the axel out of the hub. It sounds like you already have it out and now can't get the hub out of the knuckle. It should tap out from the back as Wret said. Since you're replacing it you can pound on the hub hard (but you must have the knuckle mounted sturdy or nothing will happen - I temporaily reconnected all the control arms and damper fork points to hold it stiff). Here's what the 2 pieces you're trying to separate look like:

 

[Viper588]

So lemme get this straight: the doohicky is still connected to the thingy?

You need to be a little more specific. The hard part for most (easy for others) is getting the splined axle separated from the hub/bearing assembly. Once that's done, and the bolts are removed from the back, the hub/bearing can be tapped out from the back of the knuckle.

sorry wasnt exactly sure of the names ill try and do better next time but getting the axle out of the knuckle and/or hub was very easy for me though i have seen from posts that it can be very difficult...

The 1" puller CTA4320 is rented for $4 (not bought) from a auto/truck tool rental place but this is to push the axel out of the hub. It sounds like you already have it out and now can't get the hub out of the knuckle. It should tap out from the back as Wret said. Since you're replacing it you can pound on the hub hard (but you must have the knuckle mounted sturdy or nothing will happen - I temporaily reconnected all the control arms and damper fork points to hold it stiff). Here's what the 2 pieces you're trying to separate look like:

You are exactly correct thank you very much i tried with a hammer but didnt put too much force into it since i wasnt sure if that was the right way of doing it and if it would work...Thank You again

 

[turbosax2]

Just in case you still haven't gotten the hub out yet, my advice is to try a slide hammer. You can borrow these from auto parts stores. Attach the control arms to the body so everything is solid, stick the slide hammer through the hub, screw on the biggest attachment you have for the hammer and start pulling. A few good whacks should get it out.

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[Viper588]

K well to spite the hell of a beating i gave the hub assembly and the 100 half asses ideas to try and get it out i was unable to get it separated from the knuckle and just ended up bringing it to a machine shop and having them do it. the only question i have now is i dropped it off with both lower control arms connected but they said they had to remove them in order to press the hub out, i know that special fork tool was need to remove it is there a special tool needed to put the ball joint back in?? thanx

 

[wret]

No, just a wrench. Check the boots for damage though.

When re-installing tapered shaft joints, it helps to jack it into place with enough pressure to seat the shaft while you torque the nut. If the shaft spins, you won't be able to apply proper torque. If jacking doesn't help, look for a nut without the nylon thread-locker and use it to seat the shaft, then take it off and use the nylon lined nut.

 

[luv2rallye]

Yes the ball joint shaft (that the nut screws on) will most likely turn on you while tightening the nut. An easy way to prevent it is to put a floor jack (or jack stand) under the control arm and lower most of the car's weight on it so the weight will seat the tapered shaft into the knuckle and keep it from turning while you tighten the nut (and don't put any lubricant on the tapered shaft).

Sorry you had so much trouble on the hub but that's not at all unusual. About 1 in 15 end up taking it to a machine shop to be pressed out. When you put the new one in make sure you put anti-seize around it.

 

[Viper588]

Well its finally all done just wanted to thank everyone for all the great help