[RESOLVED] 2g wheel bearing hub removal

[Mikernet]

Hey all,

I'm following this guide:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/art...lace-rear-awd-hub-assembly-wheel-bearing.html

I have a puller attached to the wheel studs, pushing on the axle. I'm trying to crank the puller tigher, but it is so tight that the hub/axle/puller are just spinning now, so I can't get it any tighter.

Is there any way to stop the hub from spinning so that I can crank the puller tighter?


Thanks.

 

[Mikernet]

What do you mean "first"? I haven't actually "tried" to pull the axle through yet, so I was asking if it would just slide through as more of a curiousity question to gauge how big a pain in my ass it is going to be. I didn't unbolt any of the knuckle yet...I've been working on getting the damn bearing to break off the splines. You aren't suggesting I should unhook the axle for that, right?

The puller I'm using is quite heavy duty...I'm cranking over a 4ft bar as hard as I can and it hasn't broken yet, .

Do I need any "special" tools to remove the entire knuckle, or can I do it all with sockets? Can't find a VFAQ or anything on it. Also not too sure how to handle the handbrake line either.

 

[luv2rallye]

The axel (drive shaft) only goes in from the hub towards the diff (it does not come out through the hub). It's splines rust onto the hub which is the problem. But in order to have room to push the axel in it must be disconnected from the diff first. Remove the lower knuckle bolts (holding the trailing & lower arms), and the shock bolt. Now swing the knuckle out while prying the driveshaft out of the diff with 2 large flat bladed screwdrivers (one on each side between the cv joint case and the diff). If there is not enough space to pull it out completely, you will have to remove the toe control arm ball joint with a ball joint separater (or pickle fork). You very well may have to do this (you will for sure if you have to remove the entire knuckle - temporaily reassemble the knuckle bolts to hold it if you must do this.). [Note: You could try removing the other end of the toe control arm instead but this nearly always is completely rusted in place and then requires cutting the bolt out. Stick with the ball joint end, believe me, I've been there already!]. Once the axel is out of the diff push it underneath so it doesn't butt up against anything. Now reassemble the knuckle arm bolts and toe control ball joint finger tight so as to hold the assembly firm enough to use the puller.

 

[housegsx]

The axel (drive shaft) only goes in from the hub towards the diff (it does not come out through the hub). It's splines rust onto the hub which is the problem. But in order to have room to push the axel in it must be disconnected from the diff first. Remove the lower knuckle bolts (holding the trailing & lower arms), and the shock bolt.

That isn't really necessary because of the axles tripod joint which allows in/out movement for suspension travel.

 

[indhp94]

it could be done buy now if you did not wait for people to post trial and error figure it out.

 

[luv2rallye]

That isn't really necessary because of the axles tripod joint which allows in/out movement for suspension travel.

If that works for you on your AWD then great! On my 99 FWD however it wouldn't move far enough so I stated what I had to do.

 

[Mikernet]

indhp94: Yes, trial and error is what I've been doing. I'm not "waiting for people to respond" - I'm working 16 hours days at my startup, so my time is limited, and I usually have a day or two before I can go at it again. I was simply inquiring if I would need any special tools to remove the knuckle, since I rather go and loan them out before I get started if possible.

If you don't want to help, please don't respond.

---

luv2rallye:

It won't move far enough to completely pull it out - that's why I will remove the 4 bolts holding the bearing hub in place once it breaks free. It definately has enough room to "break free" though - the suspension is all the way down, so the axle some has room to push in.

I think removing the whole knuckle and getting it pressed out is the last real remaining option. I've hammered away and torqued the puller as hard as possible with no results.

Thanks for you help everyone. I'll let you know how it all ends up.

 

[Mikernet]

Hey,

OK, so I'm back at it again...one problem - it has what looks like an ABS sensor (black plastic thing stuck in the knuckle with a thick black wire), but what looks like a bolt holding it in has the head busted off. and it won't really budge.

What is even stranger is that I didn't think I had ABS - when you hit the brakes on the car, it just locks up the wheels...so, I'm not sure what's going on there.

I'm still not quite sure what the best way to disconnect the parking brake is...so if anyone has a tidbit of info on that, I'd appreciate it.

I'm going to go drill out the busted bolt (at least I hope that's what it is)...I'll check this thread when I'm back

 

[Mikernet]

OK...well...that was stupid...I drilled out the bolt and while trying to pry it out but it busted in half...but the ABS light doesn't come on...so...I guess a previous owner disabled the ABS, and I could have just as easily chopped the wire.

This is one of the prime reasons I hate getting second hand cars - you never know what someone did to it.

 

[gorf]

OK...well...that was stupid...I drilled out the bolt and while trying to pry it out but it busted in half...but the ABS light doesn't come on...so...I guess a previous owner disabled the ABS, and I could have just as easily chopped the wire.

This is one of the prime reasons I hate getting second hand cars - you never know what someone did to it.

easiest way to disable abs is to pull the bulb from the cluster. the first thing it checks is that the bulb is ok.

 

[Mikernet]

Removed the whole axle/knuckle assembly, dropped it off and waiting to see if the shop can press it out.

 

[Mikernet]

OK, so here is the wonderful conclusion - had to take off the CV boots to slide the axle out with the hub. We then tried a 30 ton press which couldn't get it out

Last resort was mouting the hub vertically and giving it a few massive wallops with a gigantic sledge hammer, and it finally came out! woo!! The end of the axle was mushroomed pretty bad, but I just sanded down the first several loops of the threads.

Finally got the car road worthy and registered, and my new insurance kicks in at midnight tonight...can't wait!

Booked an appointment with a Chrysler dealership to do the ball joint and transfer case recall and didn't have any problems...I know the ball joints are screwed and the transfer case is leaking, so hoorah to some free repairs!