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[RESOLVED] 2g wheel bearing hub removal

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OK...so...I jammed a crowbar into the puller, proped it up against a box so it wouldn't turn and gave it a good crank with a 4ft long bar. The threads were already fairly messed up on the puller I borrowed from canadian tire, and I definately added a bit to the mess. After a couple hard pulls, it just started spinning in one spot...bah...

So, I'm going to return this puller and see if there is a better one at PartSource or another CT location. I'm going to give it one more go with another puller, but I have a feeling I'm going to tear it apart as well.

If I can't get the bearing out, is it possible to pull the axle out with just the bearing hub? I want to leave the rest of the hub in place (i.e. the part that is screwed on to control arms and such) and just yank out the bearing hub and axel together, since I can't get them to seperate.

Thanks,

--Mike
 
I had them loosened so they were just hanging on, keeping the wheel bearing hub from detaching from the rest of the assembly and flopping around...but that doesn't matter for the initial "break off." You can leave those bolts on and you can still pull the bearing off the spline a bit before removing them. The axle has some in-out play that will allow you to push it in without a problem.

The hub didn't even budge.
 
Put some GOOD tension on the Wheel bearing with the puller, then whack the center of the puller with a hammer while there is tension on it. If that doesn't work sometimes you can take a Chisel and hit the edge of the bearing till it seperates from the hub.

Heating the hub around the bearing would help too! Since the bearing is already being replaced it shouldn't matter if you get the bearing too hot.
 
I would try putting two of the bolts in a little diagnally from each other and tapping them with a hammer. It works good if you take the whole knuckle off at once maybe it will work to get it loose for you. When I say tap your going to have to use a little muscle.
 
I did a smack the puller a few times and I also took a torch to everything...also tried heating it up and then dumping water on it.

Damnit, I was hoping this wouldn't be one of the painful cases...arrgggg. I will be the happiest person even if I get this to come apart...otherwise, its time to look for a complete wheel hub assembly and axle from a junkyard.
 
Any two of the for holding it on. I've never done it while the knuckle was on the car so I don't know if there is clearance to tap them with a hammer.
 
The knuckle has no problem popping out - it pulls the axle out with it and pops out about half an inch before stopping (I think the rubber boot on the axle is stopping it). The wheel bearing hub still stays glued to the axle splines though :(
 
This must only be a cold/salty area problem right? I have replaced many hubs on Texas cars and trucks and they slide right off, no rust and corrosion holding them in place. Is this why I am thinking it wont come off? If so I have been able to use and air hammer with a chisel bit and get things that are rusted together apart. If rubber mallet and lots of force dont work, try and air hammer.
 
Why is it still spinning? Is the other wheel on the ground? In gear, etc? That should lock it I believe..
 
I've replaced 3 wheel bearings on my car. Twice i couldn't press the axle out without it just mushrooming. I had to replace the hub AND the axle. When you do replace it, anti-seize is your friend.

Mushrooming is usually caused by HAMMERING. If you are going to HAMMER the axle then it;s best to thread the axle nut on Loose then hammer it. This Will stop it from Mushrooming.

I use and AIR HAMMER/ CHISEL for EVERYTHING. It will take that wheel bearing off in 2.3 seconds :)
An Air Hammer is MORE of a VIBRATION than a POUNDING....It works Every time!
 
Mushrooming is usually caused by HAMMERING. If you are going to HAMMER the axle then it;s best to thread the axle nut on Loose then hammer it. This Will stop it from Mushrooming.

I use and AIR HAMMER/ CHISEL for EVERYTHING. It will take that wheel bearing off in 2.3 seconds :)
An Air Hammer is MORE of a VIBRATION than a POUNDING....It works Every time!

Word that air hammer I bought is the best tool in my shop, after the air compressor of course :D
 
I know this sounds stupid simple, but keep the castle nut on as long as you can so that you do not damage the threads. I learned the hardway. I had to get an old school thread file to fix them.
 
I know this sounds stupid simple, but keep the castle nut on as long as you can so that you do not damage the threads. I learned the hardway. I had to get an old school thread file to fix them.

yup - the only way to keep axles from mushrooming or anything that you have to beat or use a puller on.....
anti seize or a little lithium grease on the axle before assembly will save a lot of aggravation down the road.
 
Mushrooming is usually caused by HAMMERING. If you are going to HAMMER the axle then it;s best to thread the axle nut on Loose then hammer it. This Will stop it from Mushrooming.

I use and AIR HAMMER/ CHISEL for EVERYTHING. It will take that wheel bearing off in 2.3 seconds :)
An Air Hammer is MORE of a VIBRATION than a POUNDING....It works Every time!

I actually mushroomed the space behind the nut on the one. The other axle was trashed because I let my friend beat on it. He hit it crooked and it bent it. From there it quickly just mushroomed.

An air hammer probably would have been a good idea. :thumb:
 
Try a slide hamer to get the hub out. If the axle wont slide through the knuckle then remove the whole knuckle and get it in a vise so that it is strait up and down with the axle hanging. spray a bunch of PB Blaster or Yeild if you can find some. Just let it soak for a while and you should be able to knock the axle out easily.
 
Try a slide hamer to get the hub out. If the axle wont slide through the knuckle then remove the whole knuckle and get it in a vise so that it is strait up and down with the axle hanging. spray a bunch of PB Blaster or Yeild if you can find some. Just let it soak for a while and you should be able to knock the axle out easily.

If you try to take the axle and hub out in one piece, be careful of the ABS sensors (if equipped). They are expensive to replace and can be a pain to "fix".
 
I kept the axle nut on the end of the threads to control any mushrooming.

I wish I had some air tools / a compressor. I think that will have to be my next purchase at some point. What size air compressor is suitable for this sort of hobby work?

I'm going to give a new puller and some solid hammering/chiseling a try, see how that goes. Can you clarify what I'm supposed to chisel at?
 
Well, another round of WD40 and a puller ended in dissapointment...that sucker won't budge. I hammered the crap out of the puller once it was on there SUPER tight...and nothing. I also tried getting it all heated up first.

I was going to try to take a chisel/hammer combo to it but I'm not sure what I should be putting the chisel against. Can someone clarify?

Should the axle slide right through the nuckle? I think the boot might be in the way - is there a way to slide the rubber boots to the middle of the axle without destroying them?
 
...Should the axle slide right through the nuckle? I think the boot might be in the way - is there a way to slide the rubber boots to the middle of the axle without destroying them?

Clean off the cv boot really well. Then you can cut the metal band holding the boot tight. Just keep all dirt out of the joint when you're wiggling the boot around.
 
No disrespect but you did unhook the axel from the differential first right?

Trying to get my FWD axel out of it's hub I ended up having to rent a heavy duty truck hub puller shown here: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=66514&d=1154592925. Only this one (CTA4320 with 1" screw) did the job - others I tryed all bent/broke. I also had tryed solvents, torches, air hammers, etc with no luck. And remember to keep the nut on the end when using the puller or you will regret it (I found this out the hard way).

If all else fails you may have to take the axel/hub/knuckle assembly to a machine shop to have it pressed out.
 
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