Replacing hard lines under car

[AiR]

My car has to have all the 5 lines running underneath the car replaced and I know there has to be an easier way of doing this than pulling off the entire front end from then car right? The lines I am talking about are the 3 fuel lines and 2 rear brake hard lines, the car I pulled them off we had to drop the whole front end and the gas tank please tell me I dont have to do this on my car!

 

[crimsondragon]

Sure, you can just break them off and pull it out. That's what I did with the fuel feed line.

 

[AiR]

Then how am I going to get the new ones in?

 

[Detective Coating]

Personally I would run stainless steel for all of them. It is a lot cleaner and you will have the certainty in your mind that they will never rust through. Stock ones are hard to put back in because of all the bends and curves.

 

[AiR]

I just need to know if there is a way to do it without pulling the entire front down

 

[Detective Coating]

I don't know what you mean as the "front". I'm sure you could run the lines through without having to remove everything. By removing the gas tank it would make it a lot easier for you though.

 

[AiR]

The crossmember that all the control arms and shocks and swaybars mount to is what Im refering to as the entire front (basicly everything but the motor&trans)

 

[boostngsx]

Just break the lines off and pull them out. Save your self the time and effort. Replace them with SS lines that are flexible. You will save yourself a lot of time doing it this way.

 

[DSM Jeff]

If the 2g is like the 1g then you'll have to lower the front subframe to remove the lines and install the lines in one piece. I have my lines removed and have the rear subframe out which may be nessecary as well. I currently have my lines at Classic Tube being copied in stainless. I have tried making my own stainless lines but getting the flares done was a bi*** even with an expensive flaring tool. For the fuel lines I'm running braided stainless to and from the tank.

 

[AiR]

Does anyone know where I can get a flexible set of lines that would replace the stockers I gave up dropping the subframe when I realized that the output shaft coming out of the transfer case is in the way of the subframe dropping and all my steering would have to come out also. Its def worth it to spend the money on stainless please let me know.

 

[snowborder714]

You can get SS line and fittings from here:
AN PLUMBING.COM Earls performance products, Hose ends Hose,Adapters, fittings

 

[boostngsx]

STM also sells SS line by the foot.

 

[crimsondragon]

Ask STM. I bought 14 ft of line from them before. They have stockpiles of it. Also summitracing.com sells hoses as well in SS.

 

[DSM Jeff]

I'm doubting shops are going to have -3 in stock. A 15foot roll is around $50 and that may get you 1 line, so perhaps $100 in just the 2 brake lines. Plus all of the fittings. I believe straight hose ends are around $10 each. Then you need a fitting from that to the regular line or proportioning valve or abs pump, that is if they even make the size needed. Then you'll move onto fuel lines and AN fittings.

So actual stainless hardline is difficult to work with and requires an expensive flairing tool (Around $400) and tubing bender Then you have braided stainless which requires a fair amount of fittings that will add up. Or to just pick up a roll of regular steel thats coated and make new lines and pick up some new fittings that are like a $1 each and drop your subframes. If you decide to go with steel line I would check out, --- protubeonline.com --- this stuff is very easy to work with and does not kink. You won't need a tubing bender and can get away with a cheap flare tool. They also carry fittings.

just my $.02

 

[Detective Coating]

I would just go stainless. They are a pain in the ass when you first learn how to put the fittings on but once you get it down its pretty simple. The best thing to do is get a damn good dremel cut off to use so you have no frays on the line and it should be relatively easy to do. I just did my tank to filter today and was rather easy but I have been doing them for quite a while. I'm sure STM could cut them to length and put the fittings on for you for a few extra dollars.

Why -3? Just go to a -6 for all of it and you'll be fine. Look on VFAQ they show you a complete fuel system done in stainless with AN fittings.

 

[VETTE_50_TH]

Because you aren't going to get any benefit for the brake line going to -6an. The technifit brake lines are at most -4 and then you have to go down to the a flare fitting onto the proportioning valve anyway. It will be very expensive running lines from there to the back of the car. But, ehh, it will be nice and if you've got the money, do it!

James

 

[turbosax2]

Not to disagree with everyone else, but I would stick with the hard brake lines if at all possible. If you have the cash, upgrading the fuel lines with ss braided lines would be good though.

 

[Detective Coating]

Because you aren't going to get any benefit for the brake line going to -6an. The technifit brake lines are at most -4 and then you have to go down to the a flare fitting onto the proportioning valve anyway. It will be very expensive running lines from there to the back of the car. But, ehh, it will be nice and if you've got the money, do it!

James

I understand that but your better to buy it in bulk if possible because it will be much cheaper. At least a lot of places I had got quotes from before.

 

[AiR]

I have set of the lines off a 95 Eclipse GST FWD (stock oem hard ones) that I was going to try and put in but it seems like way too much effort just for some damn brake lines

 

[DSM Jeff]

I would just go stainless. They are a pain in the ass when you first learn how to put the fittings on but once you get it down its pretty simple. The best thing to do is get a damn good dremel cut off to use so you have no frays on the line and it should be relatively easy to do. I just did my tank to filter today and was rather easy but I have been doing them for quite a while. I'm sure STM could cut them to length and put the fittings on for you for a few extra dollars.

Why -3? Just go to a -6 for all of it and you'll be fine. Look on VFAQ they show you a complete fuel system done in stainless with AN fittings.

Ok, first when you use the word stainless for a line what comes to mind is stainless steel hardline. Heres an example of that, a stainless vs. stock hardline.

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Now your saying to use -6 line for brake lines? A stock brake line is 3/16" o.d. which I believe is equal to a -3, maybe -4. Those lines are a braided stainless cover over a teflon liner. I do not even think you can step down from a -6 to meet the stock brake fittings and I think it would be rather silly to have that size line for brakes. It may not even work correctly.

Then for fuel lines you can run a braided stainless line with AN fittings. Once you get the lines out its a matter of deciding which fittings to use off the tank or rubber stock line and then upgrading your fuel filter and picking up rail ends. You could just run a -6 braided line up and then a rubber line back. I personally am going with braided stainless to and from the tank. I also bulkheaded the sending unit to run the line straight from there. If you're going with a big set up you can even choose to run -8. It all depends where you're going with the car.

To the original poster, You really need to determine what your plans are with the car. If you plan to keep it for a long time and everything is in good shape, I would suggest going through the hassle of making full new lines. If you have 1 bad section look into repairing just that 1 section. I have purchased hardline from ProTubeOnline.com and it is very easy to work with. You maybe able prebend it, work it into place and straighten it back out while in place. Fuel lines, there are many vendors who have fuel line kits or can help you put a kit together.

 

[Detective Coating]

When you say stainless lines, what comes to my mind is the stainless steel braided rubber lines. It's because thats all I have ever worked with therefore we both have different perceptions of what the words mean. You could easily adapt a -6 to a brake valve. With the assortment of fittings made by earl's you can adapt to damn near anything. I have seen plenty of brake line kits that are stainless steel braided rubber lines and they look to be at least -4AN.

As for the fuel, -6 will work just fine as that is what I did with my car and also drilled into the sending unit to run fittings out of there. But I used Stainless Steel braided rubber lines so that I never have to worry about them rusting and getting a leak. But to each their own.

 

[crimsondragon]

Not to disagree with everyone else, but I would stick with the hard brake lines if at all possible. If you have the cash, upgrading the fuel lines with ss braided lines would be good though.

Grats on the wiseman promotion!

 

[AiR]

Ok I have decided to replace the stock lines with 5 new ones i pulled out of another car a 1995 GS-T My new questions are:


1) Will the lines out of the FWD Work on my AWD?

2) Does anyone have tips about lowering the subframe? As I see it now I have to remove the driveshaft, Exaughst, steering column from steering box, steering rack, all shock mount bolts rear engine mount, sway bar and im sure other random things Is there anything im forgetting or any tips or tricks to help me out?

3) I already attempted this once and gave up because I had the transfer case off and the driveline out and the center diff shaft looked like it was going to be in the way of the frame coming down is this going to be an issue?

4)Once all this is removed and reinstalled am I gonna have issues with something not lining up correctly or throw off my alignment or anything funky that I might overlook or is everything I have to remove simply bolt on.

sorry for so many questions this is just turning into way bigger pain than I figured it would have to be.

 

[turbosax2]

1. Yes, they will work.

 

[AiR]

And have all the same mounting and routing spots? ^