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Remove balance shafts or leave them in??

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You will feel more vibration if you remove them...People say it doesnt cause more vibration but it has to or you wouldnt feel any more....they were put in to balance the motor. Leave them in.
 
On a balanced motor, there's very little difference between having them in or removing them in terms of vibration. Any minor vibration happens mostly at idle. I'd rather have them out than potentially have a 1/2" belt take out the timing belt.
 
andymoraitis said:
On a balanced motor, there's very little difference between having them in or removing them in terms of vibration. Any minor vibration happens mostly at idle. I'd rather have them out than potentially have a 1/2" ide belt take out the timing belt.

HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
This happened to my 7bolt! It was ready to go anyway becuase I had to much end play in the crank but damnit man. If I would have removed the BS, the motor would still be alive! Also that bent all 16 valves in the head (so much for uning that head on the 6 bolt). The stupid little belt came apart and wedged itself into the timming belt. BS are just that, BS.
 
Mine were removed when the 6 bolt was rebuilt before being put in. They've been out for about 20k miles, no issues at all. They're in there to meet the NVH standards that all the girls driving Eclipses have.ROFL Do it right, do it with a kit and take both OUT.

I have all 4 poly motor mounts, the vibration isn't excessive. You won't even notice it after awhile, and like andy said, its only at idle. On the other hand, if you have a whiny girlfriend...:cry:
 
I have them out and all the motor mounts too. At idle my car raddles like a tin can. Maybe the 2g's are not that bad but my old 1g raddles like crazy. I think it has more to do with the mounts than the balance shafts though.
 
Coder24 said:
You will feel more vibration if you remove them...People say it doesnt cause more vibration but it has to or you wouldnt feel any more....they were put in to balance the motor. Leave them in.

They were put there to take out the vibration from a transverse mounted engine as felt by the driver. The engine is dampened by crank dampener pulley that runs the accessory belts.
 
Take them out and if you're worried about vibration, which like stated above is mostly at idle, don't get poly mounts.
 
Thanks for the help so far.

I don't under stand, there are 50,000 plus members on this site. Is 30 votes the best we can do? I know we can do better than this! Lets put this mod to rest. Lets give those new members a reason to pull their shaft and know they've done the rite thing.

I'm curious to know, out of all of us, how many have pulled our balancing shafts? How many wont? I think its a good question.

A LITTLE STORY:

I dropped my block off at the machine shop the other day. One of the machinists saw my block and made a comment under his voice. I replied; turbo Eclipse. He continued to mumble something about having worked on lots of mitsu's. I was glad to think there was about to be someone with experience work on my engine. He mentioned owning four of them in the past. He asked me about the balance shaft bearings I had left in the block. I told him I was removing the shafts and using a kit with plugs. He seemed very unpleased.???
I then showed him the diagram of the 1G rods and the 2G pistons I was installing. He again, mumbled something about normaly... they would have also gotten 2G rods. I got his attention and said; I think the 1G rods are a little bigger than the 2G rods. He responded; sure but the 2G's are stronger! I felt like a kid arguing about who's dad could beat up who. Later I found out, someone else Will be doing the modification to my 1G rods; thank god.
Nothing pisses me off more that spending $600 at a place, to end up being treated like I'm just in the way. You could say I was less than pleased with my machine shop decision. Lets hope the rest turns out better than the start.
 
I hate people like that. There's no need for that kind of arrogance, whether it be the Mustang/F-body jackholes that think all "V4's"ROFL are slow or the guys at the DSM shop that act all condecending because I don't have a 10 second car.


I didn't remove my own. It was done buy the shop that did the rebuild (Pruven).
 
I posted about balance shafts before and I will post again in the hope that more people will do the balance shaft elimination the correct way.

The correct way to do the balance shaft elimination is to machine down the rear balance shaft. Why? Becasuse if you do not there is nothing there to support the oil pump drive gears. Which causes the shaft that goes through the front case and attaches to the timing belt oil pump gear to wear abnormaly.

Special thanks goes out to DSMJIM for doing a nice write up with pics. on the modification.
 
JamiesTSI said:
I posted about balance shafts before and I will post again in the hope that more people will do the balance shaft elimination the correct way.

The correct way to do the balance shaft elimination is to machine down the rear balance shaft. Why? Becasuse if you do not there is nothing there to support the oil pump drive gears. Which causes the shaft that goes through the front case and attaches to the timing belt oil pump gear to wear abnormaly.

Special thanks goes out to DSMJIM for doing a nice write up with pics. on the modification.


I agree to a point. Theoretically, it makes sense but at the same time, you still have a shaft riding in a bearing with very little surface area at 13-18k rpm(depending on shift point) which is a recipe for disaster whether the counterweight is there or not. And if it wasnt reliable, mitsu wouldnt have done it on the turbo colt. Most of the better bse kits use factory parts from the 4g61.

And as far as the oil pump, the only gear that is supported by the bs is the driven gear, not the drive gear. The drve gear is self supporting in the front case below and to the righ of the bs. This is the gear that the tb cog is attached to. As for the driven gear which attaches to the bs, it has it's own bearing in the case that the bs or stub shaft rides on. If anything, it is less wear on the pump without the bs because the bearing in the pump doesnt have to support the front of the shaft any more and the weight of the shaft no longer creates thrust on the driven gear so it is less likely to eat into the front case.
 
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2gAWDTalon said:
HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
This happened to my 7bolt! It was ready to go anyway becuase I had to much end play in the crank but damnit man. If I would have removed the BS, the motor would still be alive! Also that bent all 16 valves in the head (so much for uning that head on the 6 bolt). The stupid little belt came apart and wedged itself into the timming belt. BS are just that, BS.


sorta like this here?




i would remove it, to be honest with you i feel absolutely no vibration. its a cheap easy modification that most people do.
 
i know two diferent people that had the bs belt kill the tb pistons and heads got trashed pretty bad im in the process of doing my 6 bolt swap and im taking mine out my buddys did now also one is a 2g gst and one is a 1g tsi awd and vibration is not that bad to me ive rode in both its a little more noticeable in the 1g because it has poly mounts
 
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