recommend spark plugs / wires and fuel injectors

[DDualan]

car is completely stock going to start modding slowly

just replaced my engine with a used 7 bolt with 70,000 miles i purchased from a member of these forums with that i replaced the timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, power steering belt, all fresh fluids ( car was sitting for 2 year ) and my wiring harness

shooting for like 300-350 whp daily driver

going to be running a 14b or 16g turbo not sure on that one yet

my injectors are clogged and its causing my 2nd and 3rd cylinders to misfire so i am going to replace them first figure i would replace my spark plugs and wires at the same time

looking for input on good brands to go with

thanks

 

[007jimmy]

car is completely stock going to start modding slowly

just replaced my engine with a used 7 bolt with 70,000 miles i purchased from a member of these forums with that i replaced the timing belt, balance shaft belt, water pump, power steering belt, all fresh fluids ( car was sitting for 2 year ) and my wiring harness

shooting for like 300-350 whp daily driver

going to be running a 14b or 16g turbo not sure on that one yet

my injectors are clogged and its causing my 2nd and 3rd cylinders to misfire so i am going to replace them first figure i would replace my spark plugs and wires at the same time

looking for input on good brands to go with

thanks

NGK wires are proven and NGK BPR6eS plugs gapped at .028
For the injectors you better stay at 450cc because after that you will need some sort of tuning device. A 14b would work nice on stock injectors.

 

[DDualan]

I have been looking into DSMlink its a little out of my price range at the moment, definitely in the future

thanks for the input

 

[PrimerPLus]

Also one of the first things I did. Ngk wires and plugs. I agree with staying with stock injectors until you get a tuning device.

 

[DDualan]

my stock injectors are bad so i know to go with the stock 450cc injector but which brand is recommended?

 

[007jimmy]

I would change the plugs and wires first to see if the misfiring stops. But as for the stock 450s, you could use any 1g (blue top) or 2g (blacktop) injectors. The OEM 1g injectors have "B450L" written on them and the 2g have "MDL450" written on them. Check on here, ebay and craigslist for a set. Be sure to pick up a new set of upper and lower seals for them. Don't reuse your old and worn seals

 

[DDualan]

how would the stock injectors work with the 16g?

how hard would it be to replace the fuel injectors myself with little mechanical knowledge?

 

[PrimerPLus]

Replacing the injectors is easy. Also stock fuel injectors will suffice with a 16g as long as you run it with stock boost levels. But you will not get all the power out of it until you get bigger injectors, fuel pump(walbro 255), MBC, AFPR, FMIC, Wideband, Boost Gauge, tuning device, etc..

But if you want to install the 16g, and use stock injectors you will be fine.

 

[DDualan]

Anyone know where i could find a guide on how to replace my injectors?

 

[WES_393]

It's very easy. Just unplug each injector (label them if you want), unbolt the fuel feed and return (right and left side of the fuel rail), then unbolt the 3 bolts that hold the fuel rail on and pull it off. I would advise replacing the upper and lower O-rings while you have them out. Oreily's has both for around $5 if I remember correctly.

 

[DDualan]

Thanks Wes,

could you break it down for me a little more then that? from taking out my fuel rail to re installing it after I replace the injectors.

I am trying to teach myself how to work on my car I am not mechanically inclined.

I appreciate the help

 

[WES_393]

Here's the view from the engine bay. Red is your fuel rail, yellow is the fuel feed, and blue is the fuel return. The three bolts on top of this rail will need to be taken out, the fuel feed will need to be taken off, and the fuel return will need to be taken off. I'm not sure what size/kind of bolts they are since mine have been aftermarket since day one. I believe the fuel rail bolts are 12mm or 13mm. You will also need to remove the PCV hose which goes to the valve cover right over the fuel rail on the left-hand side.

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Once you get the fuel rail unbolted, unplug the fuel injectors. Circled in red is one of the fuel injectors, you will have 4 total. Circled in yellow are the connectors. You will have 1 for every injector. You can't put them on in the wrong direction because they are keyed, but you can put them on in the wrong order. I would suggest labeling them with tape and a marker. Start from the timing belt and label them 1, 2, 3, 4. Also be very careful not to lose the little plastic spacers that go in the same spot as the fuel rail bolts. They are essential so if you lose one and can't find it, replace it with a new one.

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These are you fuel injectors. Circled in red is the lower seals. They are usually in the port where the fuel injector sits. Sometimes they stick to the injector, but if you don't see any on the injector check the port where the injector goes. I would advice replacing these as they can cause boost leaks. Circled in yellow is the upper O-rings. You should always replace these while you have the injectors out. Even a slightly damaged injector O-ring can spew fuel like a faucet. Remember, your car has over 40psi of fuel pressure behind those seals so it's important they work properly.

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For reinstall you just do everything backwards. One word of advice though is to grease (yes with wheel bearing grease, axle grease, etc.) the O-rings before installing the fuel injectors. This will make sure the O-rings don't fold or twist when installing them. Grease both the upper and lower. Then just pop the injectors back in the rail, guide the injectors back into their port, make sure you have all your black plastic spacers in place, and bolt the rail down. Once it's all back together, plug your fuel injectors back in (in the correct order), and install the fuel feed & return. The car may take a few extra cranks to start for the first time, but if you smell fuel or the car idles rough, then something isn't hooked up properly. It also wouldn't hurt to replace the fuel feed & return O-rings, but I have personally never had a problem reusing them so long as they were greased before install.

Here's the link for upper O-rings. Just ask about the lower one's and they should be able to help you out.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d..._2857&keyword=fuel+injector+seal!s!o-ring+kit

 

[whyadsm]

This is even better than the one of VFAQ...Awsome man!

 

[DDualan]

That's awesome thank you very much Wes.

while i have my fuel rail out should i replace that also?

 

[WES_393]

No, there is no need to replace the fuel rail unless it is cracked/broken. Other than that, you will probably never have to replace the fuel rail. Even at 400hp.

 

[DDualan]

alright! thanks a lot man I appreciate all your help

 

[95Tallytsi]

can someone tell me a good setup to run about 18-20 psi daily driver sleeper good to drive around but when need be i can push some good hp out any suggestions thinking bout just turning up the stock 14b turbo