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Recommend a BC for the EvoIII

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daren_p

DSM Wiseman
4,605
97
Nov 22, 2004
Newmarket, ON, Canada
I think I need to get a different boost controller for my EVOIII turbo. I'm currently running the Turbo XS High Performance BC (has both course & fine boost adjustments) & I don't like the way it works with this turbo. It seemed to work well with the t25 but with the evo I'm getting large boost spikes. If I punch the gas I end up with a 2 psi spike or so, which isn't to bad but if I'm running through the gears I have seen a 6 or 7 psi spike going into 3rd or 4th, which I think is too much, it lasts for about 1 sec on my dsmlink but I don't think its a good idea since I'm on the stock 7 bolt. I've tried adjusting both adjustments & it doesn't seem to make much of a difference, still lots of spike.

So are there any bc's that work well with this turbo & have minimal boost spikes. Don't want to spend a fortune, since I've heard alot of the more complicated ones don't work that well most of the time anyway. A manual one is fine if theres one that works well. Was thinking about getting the greddy profec b spec II but I've heard it works great on some model cars & like crap on others.

So if you could let me know what your running & how it preforms as far as spike & boost drop off that would be great, or if anyone is getting good performance out of the turboxs hp mbc that I already have, let me know how you have it set up.
 
I never did like the Turboxs for it being a bleeder type valve. I'm currently running the Hallman EVO RX with the light weight ceramic ball which moves back and forth really fast. If you're looking for precise boost control and money isn't an issue, it's worth the investment.
 
If you can find a Profec B, the first version, buy it and never look back. I had a manual BC for along time and didnt like it on my FWD car at all. I ended up getting a brand new Profec B and I love it. It is a nice EBC, but it is so simple and easy to use that it is perfect. I would never buy another BC.
 
boostedinaz said:
If you can find a Profec B, the first version, buy it and never look back. I had a manual BC for along time and didnt like it on my FWD car at all. I ended up getting a brand new Profec B and I love it. It is a nice EBC, but it is so simple and easy to use that it is perfect. I would never buy another BC.
Not that he^^^^^needs any backup....LOL But I completely agree.
This is the exact one I run now and have run for a couple years.
It's very simple and works just as it should.
Don't even get me started on MBC's...LOL
I'll never look back with the greddy
Good luck
 
i have an evo 3 turbo and a profec b2. works great. no creep at all, i have it set to 18 lbs, which is trial and error, cause the display on the profec sucks, and is in some furrin language. unless you are looking directly at it, all the numbers look like 8's. and the calibration dont correspond with anything i know of. but, it does work well. i had 3 different mbc's before, and all of them had creep.
 
Thanks for the input, I think I'm gonna look at getting a greddy unit. It looks like all the input was for the older profec b. How is the new profec b spec II? or what about their new profec type s?
 
Yeah, I think I see a lot more Profecs in cars then I do the AVC-R which I had wanted originally. Plus the latter I've been told is hard to set up. Is there any sort of valet feature on the Profecs?
 
daren_p said:
Thanks for the input, I think I'm gonna look at getting a greddy unit. It looks like all the input was for the older profec b. How is the new profec b spec II? or what about their new profec type s?

When I was looking, the Spec II had just come out. I looked around and talked to people and most said they didnt like it. I know Greddy had a few problems with it hence why the Type S came out so soon after. That is supposesd to be a better part, but the original has never had any complaints that I have ever heard.
 
I would stick to a good ole manual boost controller. I have had the same one on my car now for about 6 years and I have not had a problem out of it yet!
 
kraka said:
Not all MBC's spike bad...Joe P's are one of the cheapest you can find and you won't find many people complaining about them

i had one of the first joe p's. it looked like it was made out of an old water faucet. it worked ok, but creeped a lot with my evo turbo. the profec went on after that.
 
ken inn said:
i had one of the first joe p's. it looked like it was made out of an old water faucet. it worked ok, but creeped a lot with my evo turbo. the profec went on after that.
Are you saying that you solved your boost creep problem by only switching from JoeP to Profec B spec 2 and nothing else? I find that hard to believe, how much boost were you running with the JoeP compared to the Profec? Boost creep is a exhaust problem, not a mbc problem.
 
i switched from a big 16g to an evo 3 turbo. no other changes. i was getting creep and spiking with the joe p, and i never had any before. the profec stopped it cold. even before, i would get just a tad creep. with the profec, the boost goes to wherever it is set(18) and stops. i have changed the boost settings a few times, and every time it is solid. easy to change, too. worth the money? dunno. better than any of the mbc's i had, but it is pricey.
 
ken inn said:
i switched from a big 16g to an evo 3 turbo. no other changes. i was getting creep and spiking with the joe p, and i never had any before. the profec stopped it cold. even before, i would get just a tad creep. with the profec, the boost goes to wherever it is set(18) and stops. i have changed the boost settings a few times, and every time it is solid. easy to change, too. worth the money? dunno. better than any of the mbc's i had, but it is pricey.
Interesting, perhaps a defective JoeP + higher boost level with ebc and change of vacuum line all played a part, I don't know. I'll definitely keep this in mind next time I run into this type of problem, thanks for the info. :thumb:
 
oldman said:
Boost creep is a exhaust problem, not a mbc problem.

Exactly, I had bad creep even with a nice Hallman mbc and FULL exhaust mods, tubular o2, lots porting and all. Only thing that cured it was running 19psi or more (with supporting mods of course). It would always creep to 18-19psi when I was trying to keep it low on the stock side mount. After I completed the supporting mods it held strong and didn't spike or creep at 18-19psi daily, and now with water/alky injection I'm up to 23-24 and no creep or spike. It's just a wierd housing I guess since the regular b16G guys don't complain about creep nearly as much as we do. I recently had an incident with my housing and many broken bolts so I'm trying a bullseye housing so well see how that combo works.
 
it cannot be mbc the reason why you have boost creep or spike, easy check is. hook your boost directly to the turbo and if you creap over 15psi ... there you go ... you need external wastegate ... experiance dude :thumb:
 
Let's keep this on topic. Boost controller, not boost creep. I'm sorry I started it. :)
 
Spike can be caused by an inefficient boost controller. If the controller does not react quickly enough to send boost to the actuator, boost will spike. I have read a magazine article in SCC or Turbo that show this on a 16G dsm. I know that some of those articles must be taken with a grain of salt and I have no personal experience with this.

It does seem less likely that creep can be controller dependent though. One thought is that perhaps creep is a self perpetuating phenomenon. Lack of gasses being bipassed causes increased boost which leads to higher exhaust volume which can't be wasted and therefore leads to more boost etc... Perhaps nipping this cycle in the butt before it ever gets rolling by getting the flapper open farther and sooner makes the system less prone to creep. Then of course this could be completely wrong. :)

Seth
 
SethA said:
Spike can be caused by an inefficient boost controller. If the controller does not react quickly enough to send boost to the actuator, boost will spike. I have read a magazine article in SCC or Turbo that show this on a 16G dsm. I know that some of those articles must be taken with a grain of salt and I have no personal experience with this.

It does seem less likely that creep can be controller dependent though. One thought is that perhaps creep is a self perpetuating phenomenon. Lack of gasses being bipassed causes increased boost which leads to higher exhaust volume which can't be wasted and therefore leads to more boost etc... Perhaps nipping this cycle in the butt before it ever gets rolling by getting the flapper open farther and sooner makes the system less prone to creep. Then of course this could be completely wrong. :)

Seth


Or it could be the fact that a EBC will have a stepper motor and it will try to keep the boost level consistant no matter what. I also find it very weird, aka BS, that an EBC stopped boost creep. A spike, perhaps, if it was a shitty controller, but creep no way.
 
98spydert said:
Common sense duuude :thumb:
Not quite so. First, defective or poorly designed boost controllers are known to cause boost spike by delaying pressure signal from reaching the actuator/wastegate. Secondly, external wastegate is not the only way to solve boost creep, in most cases.
 
i run a SRP manual boost controller from Ebay on my EVOIII B16g, no spike, no creep. i think they are $15. he happens to be a friend of mine, had it on the 14b and now the 16g, rock solid wherever i set it, less 1/2psi spike in 1st&2nd gear, but 3&4 are solid to wherever i set it. most local guys here run it too, and no problems with their cars either.

i used to get slight creep & about 1-2psi spike with my Extreme Motorsports MBC on my old 14b, but once i switched to this to test it for him, i never gave it back! :cool:

thank god i don't have bad creep, sounds like a PITA to get rid of in some cases!
 
i made one from parts at home depot for like $8... doenst have any problems with my t25 at 14 psi... i gotta go turn it up though. oh and i did two bearings... one on either side of the spring. works like a champ. might also wanna check out an adjustable check valve... just make sure you drill the hole on the output side so that it can bleed air off.
 
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