1G rebuild start up questions

[Robert503]

Im finishing up getting my 6 bolt back together, i took a couple year break on the rebuild so getting back into it. I'm sorry if they are answered on here already.

My main question is should i port my oil pressure relief valve before first start? or wait and see what my oil pressure looks like before porting? I've done the balance shaft delete kit with the stubby shaft which will increase my oil psi since i've blocked off those oil holes from what i understand, and i am keeping my oil squirters since its a stock build.
I have a auto meter oil pressure sending unit and auto meter oil psi gauge now so no more relying on factory gauges.
Its a stock rebuild basically making stock power, .010 over, original rods and original crank.

I will also be removing the water to oil cooler, i read a write up about being able to cut down the long hollow shaft that bolts the cooler to the ofh, the red loctite the remaining all thread into the ofh so the oil filter can screw and seal directly to the ofh. i don't plan to run the car hard for now, so this looks like an ok mod.

Any advice and peace of mind would be much appreciated. thanks

 

[dwb]

I didnt bother porting the relief valve when I did the BSE kit. I can't say that I noticed much difference, but I don't have an aftermarket gauge either. Also stock build. These 4g engines don't have a lot of oil pressure to begin with.

First start is the critical time to make sure your oil pump is primed first. Most people spin the oil pump with a drill before installing the timing belt. I packed the pump gears with assembly lube to help it prime. I also slathered all the crank / rod bearings and cams with assembly lube.

 

[Robert503]

I didnt bother porting the relief valve when I did the BSE kit. I can't say that I noticed much difference, but I don't have an aftermarket gauge either. Also stock build. These 4g engines don't have a lot of oil pressure to begin with.

First start is the critical time to make sure your oil pump is primed first. Most people spin the oil pump with a drill before installing the timing belt. I packed the pump gears with assembly lube to help it prime. I also slathered all the crank / rod bearings and cams with assembly lube.

ty for reply. hmm well i might have to try without the port first and see how it goes on the initial break in, hopefully no crazy psi during my first cruise and go from there. I have the pump gears packed with petroleum grease, lots of assembly lube on bearings. Soon ill get the pan on, the turbo and oil system complete so i can prime as described and then to the timing.

 

[miliman13]

I did the relief and smooth out the oil gallery on the block for the front case housing, I also left in the squirters and I run 10w-40, I’m on the looser side of the factory tolerances.

My oil pressure has never been better, traditionally always high before rebuilding with stubby shaft, now it’s closer to factory spec.

This was done because I knew first the existing oil pressure and my tolerance along with the knowledge I removed a lot of restrictions in the oil paths.

 

[Robert503]

I did the relief and smooth out the oil gallery on the block for the front case housing, I also left in the squirters and I run 10w-40, I’m on the looser side of the factory tolerances.

My oil pressure has never been better, traditionally always high before rebuilding with stubby shaft, now it’s closer to factory spec.

This was done because I knew first the existing oil pressure and my tolerance along with the knowledge I removed a lot of restrictions in the oil paths.

Some good info thanks. Half of me wants to leave it un-ported for now and get a base reading of oil psi, but i don't want issues on my break in, I only plan on being between 2000-3500rpm but who knows. It looks like i can get to the ofh for removal after everything is back in the engine bay if i do need to port it.

Does anyone have feedback on deleting the oil water cooler and trimming down the shaft so just the oil filter seals to the ofh? seems legit.