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rebuild issue

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studabaker

Supporting Member
207
2
Nov 1, 2008
Sacramento, California
I have started up ok and repaired one oil leak from the rear main seal. I am now getting to work on the second oil leak from what appears to be the oil sender sensor unit on back drivers side of block. I am getting a high idle when it starts but sounds pretty good otherwise. I am thinking about getting bolt with the same threads or a after market oil pressure gauge. I have read these oil pressure gauges pop occasionally however I fear excessive oil pressure is causing it. What could cause excessive oil pressure? in a rebuild. rtv excess.? ps a 1 1/16th deep socket gets that guy out and a 1/2 " ratchet would be easier but not necessary from underneath.
 
I plugged the oil pressure sender but it doesnt start now. The disconnected sensor must cause it to not start. Im going to change the oil filter and see what that does...
 
Upon further consideration the oil pathways need to be primed. I believe my oil pump is primed if the pressure is busting the sender units however he grease in the pathways from the rebuild need to get pushed through. I have a bolt in the oil sender unit spot and I plan on just turning over the engine to press the grease through. I am calling this priming the oil pathways which may be part of priming the oil pump, which I did not do.
 
I don't think the OPSU has anything to do with your no-start condition. It's just a switch that's normally open (not a real pressure sensor), so taking it out basically has no effect. Plus, the ECU isn't even connected to this sensor; it's only connected to the light in the dash.

It's been a while since I built my engine, but I definitely remember priming the oil system before starting for the first time--it was especially important because I had a turbo I didn't want to be oil-starved. Hopefully you used a good quality moly assembly lube which will dissolve once oil reaches the extents of your engine.
 
I can easily get at the cam caps and I will inspect those to see if the grease is dried. That is my assumption of where it is having an issue. This is a relatively easy step compared to cleaning the crank. I will put better grease on the cams and see what that does. Thank you so much. I have spent a lot of time on this so far and I appreciate you helping me do this correctly.
 
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All the smaller cam caps appear to be lubricated fine and any grease is still soft and minimal. I took off the cam position sensor cap and there appears to be an oil pathway that is not flowing. the inner hole is dry with a q-tip and the other one has a bit of oil. I am thinking that I sealed off these grooves that must spray oil out? This is still easy enough at this point. I have read that the head gasket cant go on wrong and that was my recollection. So the yellow circles are corresponding locations. There is sealant where these grooves are on the surface of the head. I am going to clean and reassemble it and try again. So glad just top issue, hopefully. I found a diagram of oil flow( for a 4g63 i think) it showed the rough idea of this being how oil flows into the head.
 
So I wish i did this without removing the timing belt but I finally got it back on. I think I could have but I did not know that until after. I could have taken caps off one at a time but there is tension on the timing belt and i guess i did not want to strip the threads from in the head. My favorite new tool this time around is my endoscope, a camera on the end of a wire for 15 bucks from amazon (from china but sometimes you cant resist the value). I was able to set top dead center before I torqued down the cams or even installed them at all. I have seen a picture of marks on cams set differently and I also included a picture of correct cam mark location. I installed the rear cam sprocket and then the front which took some prying on the coolant housing, better than the cam cover. Not best practice but just be careful, I did also use a rubber mallet as I lined up the pin that last little bit. Gonna finish putting everything else back on and report back.
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OK so shes not starting again but my timing might be slightly off. It will be easier this time since I can set tdc before I remove the belts as I should have the first time. I have a picture of the head gasket when I installed it and seems fine thought he oil path seems small relative to the hole int the block. I have not found any other gaskets with a different hole in that location. She turned over with no ignition which could be my gas which half has been in there a while. A fresh gallon is put in. It revved high the one time it started before so I am going to try to get the timing perfect, or check if its off slightly...
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My gas was several years old... lift the seat and pull the vent hose and took that gas to the recycle center and with new gas it started.
I still have this sender issue leaking. I put the sensor back on and I will try with the plug in there bu the problem :
it is stalling out at idle. It spins up nice and smooth and sound good but have to be on the gas.and even then it does not seem really happy. I think one of my spark plug wires is loose. I'm gonna mash it down for a bit better fit. yes!!! kinda
 
You do know that the thread is a BNPT not a standard American thread, right?
 
I'll be darned. Because it's not a Mitsu engine or something? They sure changed things up didn't they? Well I didn't want the OP to cross thread a oil port as that could be a leak forever. Thanks!
 
Yeah, exactly--it's a Chrysler motor. Most all drivetrain parts are completely different from 4G63 models, but a lot of the chassis and suspension parts are the same.
 
So, thank you for that information. I have been working on my last oil leak and a wierd idle which i thought was timing. I have disconnected my pcv hose to attempt to reduce oil pressure to stop blowing sensors. Yesterday it turned on for a second and i turned it right off. I appears that it would not start due to the blown oil sensor. I needed to ground the connector for that to work but it is still idling high for some reason... i feel that it may be that the synthetic i put in my fresh engine is different. Im going to try regular oil. It is making this kind of louder ticking like synthetic does. It just doesnt sound the same. I never ran full synthetic before. Fixing the idle should prevent sensor failure....

Thnx
Stu
 
I did not change the oil from synthetic to conventional. That seemed weird. What I did easily tonight after cleaning for a few days and found the AC power steering belt. It idles much better especially with the pcv hose connected. My only concern now is this weird spinning when it is shut down. like an old ouga horn. Im not sure on the condition of power steering or ac compressr one might be empty.
 
So, thank you for that information. I have been working on my last oil leak and a wierd idle which i thought was timing. I have disconnected my pcv hose to attempt to reduce oil pressure to stop blowing sensors. Yesterday it turned on for a second and i turned it right off. I appears that it would not start due to the blown oil sensor. I needed to ground the connector for that to work but it is still idling high for some reason... i feel that it may be that the synthetic i put in my fresh engine is different. Im going to try regular oil. It is making this kind of louder ticking like synthetic does. It just doesnt sound the same. I never ran full synthetic before. Fixing the idle should prevent sensor failure....

Thnx
Stu
Pcv has nothing to do with oil pressure
 
After researching i have found that I think it was when i put locktight on the cam cap bolts. I am going to clean those kne at a time and clean the threads and see what happens because i guess oil passes through there somehow and the locktight maybe blocki g the oil flow. This makes sense why my oil pressure sensor is popping. And leaking oil. I thought loctight there would be good idea.
 
your problem with the oil pressure sensor isn't from excessive pressure. there is a bypass valve on the oil pump that opens to bleed off excess pressure. did you put thread sealant on the sensor before you installed it, did you give it time to cure before trying starting the car?

its okay to put loctite on the cam cap bolts.
 
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