Reason for Zero Compression

[BogusSVO]

the dyes are junk.. IMHO, the proper way to check for leaks in a alum head is have it pressure tested..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...how-aluminum-head-pressure-tested-cracks.html

Forked is the PC term for another word that starts with F and will get you banned..

seats get replaced for many reasons, wear,cracking ect..
with the damage that happend on the valve, it could very well be carred over to the seat..
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341297-how-replace-seats-aluminum-head.html

I would almost bet money that your OE installed valve springs are weak, most are that I have tested
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341287-how-test-valve-springs.html
use the specs for the SBI springs for checking yours...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341209-4g63t-valve-spring-info.html
if there is a need for springs, I like the BC1100 springs with stock retainers for used with stock to mid sized cams.

you will need to check the head for warp...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/341627-how-check-head-warp.html

if you do need to have the head milled, I would do this oil port mod before having the head milled...
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/341028-4g63t-head-oil-port-mod.html

It is doubtfull that a MLS HG will seal with out the proper finish on both the block and head ( some to pull it off tho)
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/new...face-4g63t-cylinder-head-mls-head-gasket.html
but no matter what HG you use, the surface finish needs to be about like the one in the above thread.
Also the head thickness needs to be measured after the head is milled, New head thickness is 5.200 and AREA min spec is 5.185, any thinner than 5.185 then you should/need to use a thicker head gasket.

and by no means let the shop belt surface your head.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/cyl...0613-why-not-let-your-head-belt-surfaced.html

 

[Delta Cam]

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Make it shiny, like this one I got YUMMY BUILD !

 

[TalonJohn94]

Wow, thanks a lot for the quick response a tons of info.

While I'm looking into those links and considering my options I'll ask you guys this:

I have a budget of around $700 or so, and still need to consider head gaskets and head bolts/studs. Assuming all of my cylinder head is within tolerable spec (head flatness, valve seats, valve guide bores, no cracks) would you guys suggest I just go out and buy a remanufactured/"stage 1" cylinder head or start pricing out valves, springs, valve seals and keepers?

 

[BogusSVO]

in the head set you get, you should get valve stem seals, they will be ok to use, but not as good as the Viton blue ones.

the prices are for my area, but should get you close...

check ebay for Engnbldr stainless steel valves (about 120 a set or so) you can get the +1mm for the same price too, but may add to the price of the valve job.
brian Crowder BC1100 springs only about $95

3angle valve job, $160
Mill head $45
Pressure test head for cracks $40

seats (if needed $10-15 each)

this is going off that your guides are good and the casting is not cracked, and seats are not damaged.

but with the list above would be about the min that you should have done

 

[Delta Cam]

dont skimp on the parts or you might be in for a much larger headache, I have fixed a bunch of broken parts from said ebayer might spend a few extra $ to rest easy at night knowing you have quality internals.

my .02$

 

[TalonJohn94]

in the head set you get, you should get valve stem seals, they will be ok to use, but not as good as the Viton blue ones.

check ebay for Engnbldr stainless steel valves

brian Crowder BC1100 springs only about $95

3angle valve job, $160

Mill head $45

Pressure test head for cracks $40

seats (if needed $10-15 each)

this is going off that your guides are good and the casting is not cracked, and seats are not damaged.

but with the list above would be about the min that you should have done

So ... your saying the remanufactured heads only come with valve guides and seals ("in the head set you get")?

Or do you mean I should use my head and find a reputable shop for milling and valve job?

 

[BogusSVO]

the head set is the gasket set, no guides will be in it, and guide work should be left to a machine shop, guides come in std, +.001 and +.002 Over size , and a good machinist will be able to tell which ones you will need, plus the seats will need to be cut so they are indexed to the center line of the guide, so the valves will seal properly.

I was talking about fixing the head you have now, a reman head is very general term, it all depends on what a rebuilder wants to do and check.

weater you get a reman head, or have yours fixed will depend on your budget and goals.

 

[TalonJohn94]

Oh, ok thanks for clearing that up.

As I was adding things up it seemed like just getting a "remanufactured head" from a place like SlowBoy or Buschur would be almost the same price and a lot easier. But now that I read your suggestions it seems like if my cylinder head has no structural flaws I should just look for a reputable machine shop and start collecting valve train parts.

I think I'm going to follow your recipe exactly. Last year I remember reading a significant number of your posts/threads and it seems that at least regarding machining you certainly know what your talking about.

I guess the only problem is that I've never heard of a machine shop near Milwaukee that caters to automotive stuff and I don't want someone inexperienced working on it. (I.e. using belt sander to mill the head)