Yay for zero compression!!

[SonySlave]

So I just got my custom EPROM chip and my PTE 680s. The car was running pretty well, but not well enough to race yet. I had my chip, my 680s and my stock regulator installed because my AFPR's adjustment screw stripped out. I was running 37psi base fuel because of stock regulator and the chip was made to run 43psi. So I richened up the whole map 10% on my S-AFC as a base as a temporary solution until I got my replacement AFPR.

The car was fine and I was making some WOT pulls to get my Hi-Throttle settings dialed in on the S-AFC, watching my logger and wideband, while we were driving. I made a 5th gear pull since it had the most consistant boost reading (it would flutter a bit between 17-20psi, any other gear it would creep). I went WOT and my wideband was showing 10.6-11.0AFR and there was no knock, then all of a sudden my wideband shot up to about 13.0-13.5AFR. It literally did that instantly and as soon as it did, I heard my logger go off (I have it set to go off at 9cts.). I hit 23cts. of knock! I got off the gas and coasted for a second then got back on the gas. No power, misfiring, and the car was shaking. ####... Everyone passes me and I'm left by myself trying to get up the pass. The car didn't like that.

I made it into a Schucks, grabbed some new spark plugs and made it to where I was going. I pulled my BPR7ES plugs to find that they were shot to hell. Replaced them and turned the car over. No change. I had a few people look at it and then Lucas English (www.englishracing.net) looked at it and without hesitation said it was a burnt valve in cylinder 3. It wasn't smoking, so he said that he doubted a piston was bad. I limped it home last night and it did ok. I did a compression test this morning to see what it would say. The results were 170ish-0-170ish-170ish. The tester didn't even try to build anything in Cyl. 3. Tried the cap full of oil, didn't help at all, still 0. Now I get to pull the head to find out the true disaster! Fun ####ing shit! But I do have a brand new OEM Mitsu felt gasket and ARPs I can put in...

Just another DSM sob story...

Anyway, I've started looking around at my options. I found a company on eBay that I read about here that has rebuilt heads for about $300 shipped. I only have to reuse my cams and lifters. My cams, caps, lifters, and rockers are all fine in my current head.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&viewitem=&item=250104776541

My current head needs a hot-tanking, resurface for MLS, valves, and stem seals for sure... And I should have the guides all checked out and possibly a valve grind depending on how the seats look.

What does anyone think?? Advice?

Here are some pics of what happened:

 

[Turboeagletalon]

why don't you just pay a shop 250... to rebuild the head for you. Hell man it's easy. you could do it. I rebuild them for a liveing. If you wont to ship it out to michigan. and 200.00 ill ship you back one already rebuild,

we re-deck the head block surface. pull out all of the valves. grind the seats. do an aliminum wash. (you cant hot tank a head, there will be nothing left when you pull the head out of the tank. grind all the valves. Change valve seals. then re-asembole everything

should have it mailed back to you in a week.
or we could exchange you one that we already have done.
shoot me a pm if your interested.

 

[SonySlave]

Well I'm going to a local machine shop on Monday to get a price quote. I appreciate the offer and will most definitely keep you in mind.

I have a 1G 7-bolt and it seems like the damn thing has a mix of 1G and 2G features. It's like it has bigger ports like a 1G, but 12mm headbolt holes and bigger exhaust manifold studs like a 2G. So I'd like to keep mine since that makes things easier...

Now, I have a brand new OEM Mitsu composite headgasket and ARPs ready to go, but I'm going to be running 20psi on the street and more at the track on my Small 16G. Since I already have the gasket, should I just use it? Or should I just give in a get a Mitsu MLS? I'm definitely leaning toward the MLS...

 

[Turboeagletalon]

i would go with cometic. and arp head studs and torque her to 110 but you will have to work your way up there slowly

 

[blcknspo0ln]

why don't you just pay a shop 250... to rebuild the head for you. Hell man it's easy. you could do it. I rebuild them for a liveing. If you wont to ship it out to michigan. and 200.00 ill ship you back one already rebuild,

we re-deck the head block surface. pull out all of the valves. grind the seats. do an aliminum wash. (you cant hot tank a head, there will be nothing left when you pull the head out of the tank. grind all the valves. Change valve seals. then re-asembole everything

should have it mailed back to you in a week.
or we could exchange you one that we already have done.
shoot me a pm if your interested.

Glad you're keeping it strictly in the PM's, but that's one hell of deal