The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Rear Wheel Bearing

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

blazebolt

20+ Year Contributor
392
20
Jul 29, 2005
San Jose, California
On my way back from snowboarding in my 95 GSX, I noticed a clanging metal sound coming from the rear of the car. Sounds almost like I was draging some small light chains. The sound occurs when I drive over 20mph and doesn't go away. It's not the brakes and I'm almost positive it is the driver's side rear wheel bearing. Is the bearing easy to replace? Any special tools needed? Should I just replace the rear left or both sides? Thanks for your help.
 
This link might help you, since I pretty much explain a little about wheel bearings and what's involved in replacing them: Linky.

To sum up, if the noise is a roaring/grinding noise, there's a good chance it's your wheel bearing. The bearings on our cars are a one-piece sealed design. If it's not seized on, you're lucky and it might only take a little bit of work to get off. If it's seized on, you might be screwed and have to buy a new axle, speed sensor, and bearing.

Your best bet is to have an experienced mechanic replace the bearing and make sure he or she uses lots of anti-seize on the axle/bearing splines.

To check the bearing to make sure that's absolutely what's making all the racket, jack up that corner and put your hands on the top and bottom of the tire. Try to wiggle it like you're checking shaft play on a turbo. If it wiggles, your bearing is shot.
 
It is easy to replace depending on how bad it has grooved itself in there. You will not be able to do this without a press and a puller. If you don't have these tools I recommend taking it to a shop. It will save you in the long run time and money from trying to do it yourself. You can take the hub itself off if you want and just take that to a machine shop if you want and get the old one pressed out and new one pressed in if you like that idea better.
 
Thanks for your responses guys. I put the car up on jackstands and tried to wiggle the tire, but it didn't move in any direction from what I could tell. When I started driving the car (on jackstands) and the sound came on at 20mph. Anything else I should check while it's still on jackstands? How do you check the CV Joints? I'm going to assume the worst and that it is seized on because I noticed the sound soon after I left for home and drove it about 180miles. It was drive it home or wait forever and pay get it towed back home and I wasn't about to do that. Should I do both rear wheel bearings while I'm at it? I am most likely going to take it to a shop because I just sold my RX-7 so I have no spare car. Lastly, how safe is it to drive? I got about 20 miles to the shop I want to take it to.

Thanks
 
The CV joint will usually go out if it runs out of grease. Make sure the boost isn't torn. If there is no up and down movement of the tire the wheel bearing is ok.
 
Ok I figured out what the problem was. It tuns out one of the bolts came out and is rattling around. The problem now is that I can't seem to get it back in because I am unable to align it. The boot is in the way. I'm hoping that I do not have to take everything apart. Is there an easy way to screw this bolt back in?

Thanks
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top