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Rear Camber

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bigdog225

Probationary Member
19
0
Apr 18, 2008
Houston, Texas
My recently purchased 2g is lowered im guessing 2inches. I can fit 2 fingers between the tire. Has 18's on it. Well Just realized that after driving it for a month the two rear tires are worn big time on the inside and still look new on the outside. Before I go buy a kit or bolts and washers I wanted to make sure there is not already an adjustment made or an adjustable kit on it. From Eyeballing it the camber looks good. After an inital 2inch drop was it very noticeable to those whom have done it that your tires were way off? Also do the factory camber plates sit fluch againt the body or is there a gap. I reached back there and there is a gap. Felt no washers but maybe a rubber bushing of somesort. I have an integra dropped 2 inches but the camber area is way different. Ive done all the reading of the older posts but saw nothing regarding the factory plate and if it sits flush or not. Thanks for reading.
 
$25 DIY rear camber FTW.
Go all out on some grade 8 (or 10+) bolts and some appropriate washers.

There is no factory adjustment for camber on a DSM.


Exactly. Rear 2g camber kit

Might take a little trial and error, make friends with a guy that works with conrads or NTB and have him check the camber for you or just eyeball it and see what you come up with.
 
That kind of wear is not caused by camber. I've been running for years with over 1.5 of negative camber in the rear and never had the slightest bit of accelerated wear on the inside of the tires. Inside wear is caused by toe issues. Did you have the car aligned after you changed the suspension?

That said, you should still bring the camber back near spec; there is a VFAQ for DIY camber since it's not adjustable from the factory. How are the front tires looking?

I don't know how people with 2gs slam their cars so much. I had mine dropped and had all sorts of alignment issues that could never get fixed because every shop I went to said they couldn't align my car (because it was too low). I finally said "**** it" and put on a set of Tein Basic coilovers and now I have a good inch or so gap in the wheel wells. Drives a hundred times better, tires don't wear like crazy, and it looks just fine (I'm running 16" wheels though). And I can actually clear ground obstacles. Sacrificing handling and tire wear for looks just sucks IMO.
 
Thanks for all the suggestions guys.

For the answers I can remember to questions from reading the comments. The front tires are doing great and show no signs of uneven wear. I assume a front camber kit was put on. When trying to take a peek under I couldnt tell since the car is so low. As I stated I purchased the car this way. I like how it looks being slammed and assumed that it was all camber fixed since when I purchased it all the tires look less then 5% used. An from eyeballing it the camber looked fine. Made me an a%$ out of assuming. And now a costly one at that. I dont know how much these 18's are gonna cost....

I actually have a friend that works at NTB and lucky me today is his day off and he is coming to pick up the car and take it up there and hopefully get it taken care of. 2 new tires for the rear and fix the camber in the rear and get the whole thing aligned properly. I am gonna send him to stop by Home Depot first to pick up the bolts and washers listed in the Rear 2g Camber Kit Install. Im hoping for a good day.
 
By the way, as the suspension compresses (as the car lowers), you get more negative camber and toe out. Toe shouldn't be a problem to correct, but camber adjustment is limited, so if the car is too low, there's a chance that even with a camber kit you might not be able to get it back into spec.

But personally, I'd worry a lot more about the toe than the camber. Like I said, my biggest problem was I couldn't find anyone who could fit my car on their alignment machine (I used to have to drive the car on blocks just to fit a floor jack underneath it).

It does look great, but just keep an eye on the tire wear to make sure you don't run into any issues.
 
Well good news and bad news. Good news is my buddy at NTB pulled out boards and everything else to get the car onto the alignment rack. There was already a rear camber kit on there and I get to take my bolts and washers back and got two new tires on it.

He began doing the alignment and it was all kinds of jacked up. He got the back the best he could. Even with the camber kit he couldnt get it perfect but its okay. Bad news is the front camber is off and there was no kit on it. Minor problem til next week. Ill need to get the kit for that. But the toe issues are solved and they were not good. Im gonna try to attach the before and after shot.
 

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Well good news and bad news. Good news is my buddy at NTB pulled out boards and everything else to get the car onto the alignment rack. There was already a rear camber kit on there and I get to take my bolts and washers back and got two new tires on it.

He began doing the alignment and it was all kinds of jacked up. He got the back the best he could. Even with the camber kit he couldnt get it perfect but its okay. Bad news is the front camber is off and there was no kit on it. Minor problem til next week. Ill need to get the kit for that. But the toe issues are solved and they were not good. Im gonna try to attach the before and after shot.


Something is either damaged or installed incorrectly in the front for your camber to differ by so much between the wheels.

Your caster is equal too, maybe the previous owner flipped the inboard compression bushing on the driver's side for you. This is a good thing.

Your rear camber is slightly excessive. Aim for roughly half that of your front camber. I'm not sure how your alignment guy setup your rear end but he definitely got a little excited there, seeing how damn near zero the camber started out to be.

You need to find out exactly what parts are on your car and what type of camber kit you're using in the rear. As for getting a camber kit, I highly recommend the SPC eccentric bushings.
 
Not sure what kind of camber kit is in the back they all kinda look the same to me but it is maxed out. He said there was no more adjustment. Should I add the bolts and washers to get more?

I ordered the front ingalls camber kit. Will this be enough to correct the issues you see or is there more that I need to do after getting this installed and aligned?

Thanks for the help
 
I would remove the rear kit and sell it off, if thats the case. Pick up the bolts and washers for nearly unlimited adjustment, though it IS going to be trial and error. Maybe your alignment shop buddy can make that less painful. Fortunately for me, I got mine right the first try.

But something about this doesn't seem right. SOMEHOW the camber kit was set up nicely to give you near zero camber (I like the sound of -0.7* or so, if the front camber will be -1* to -1.5*) so was your alignment guy trying to max out the adjustment to give you the MOST negative camber? If so smack him and use the kit as it was intended - to remove camber and get the reading down to a nice -0.7* or whatever your heart's desire. General rule of thumb is roughly half the camber in the back than in the front.

The ingalls will probably be fine, but with such a huge drop I'm not sure. The reason I don't recommend any of the ingalls kits is because they're outrageous in price and they have a tendency to interfere with the normal range of the suspension. Sometimes, because of the ingalls kit, the upper a-arm will hit the fender over bumps. Not good.

But your mileage will vary, and since you've already ordered you might as well try.

Once more, what kind of shocks and springs do you have? Please fill out your vehicle profile.

EDIT: Depending on the type of rear camber you have it may need to be adjusted properly still, since I find it hard to believe that with it properly maxed out you still have -2* of camber, or maybe if it IS adjusted correctly all it needs is more washers. of course that depends on the type. Most rear kits are based on the bolt + washer mod.
 
From what you can read on the before and after does it make any sense that now from looking at the car from the rear it looks like the camber is worse now then before. I noticed this yesterday. To me it looks like the tires are sitting way more on the inside then before the adjustment. But he was saying if it makes it into the green its in spec. Not that they wont wear but in spec.

Also sucks to here the front camber kit I just bought may cause problems with the fender rub. Not looking forward to that at all.

Not sure about the shocks or springs. I know that they are coilovers but not sure of the brand as I bought this car already like this.... :(
 
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