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420A Really, Really Rough Idling..

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Razor

20+ Year Contributor
51
1
Aug 7, 2002
San Francisco, California
Hi,

I just changed my valve cover gasket and while I was working on my car I cleaned the EGR valve/ gasket. Then I changed some hoses in connnecting to the EVAP system, since I had a P0442 code.

After I put everything back together I went to get gas- all without a problem. Then a couple of blocks from my house, my car feels like it is running on 3 cylinders... it felt like crap. THe more I try to accelerate my car feels very very crappy... my car shakes bad..

So I parked and checked the plugs... and they were dark like maybe semi- carbon fouled; however, I just changed my plugs and wires like 3 weeks ago along with with PCV valve.

Does anyone have a clue what could be wrong?

Lastly, I have had no major problems before this.

PS: when I was putting on the hoses for the EVAP I added some grease... could the grease have clogged up the EVAP hoses and cause this extremely rough idling??!?

Thanks in advance.
Ray
 
It sounds like you might be running very rich. Make sure the vacuum hose to your fuel pressure regulator didn't come off.
 
Check all hoses/connections for a vacuum leak.

yeah, the first thing I did was check any loose hoses which i maybe forgot the put back on... however, when I was changing the valve cover gasket, I just took off the minimal amount of hoses, but i've been check any loose hoses like a madman, nevertheless I'm gonna check again.

But do you guys know if any of the EVAP hoses are clogged, that it will lead to the engine feeling like its running on 3 cylinders?

It sounds like you might be running very rich. Make sure the vacuum hose to your fuel pressure regulator didn't come off.

My friend said it sounds like i'm running very rich also... I'll try to check my vacuum hose to the fuel pressure reg.

I'll try to update 2m.
 
that would cause it to go lean ;)

Negative. Assuming the car is running well the fuel pressure should rise approximately 10psi when the vacuum line to the fpr is disconnected. Hence more fuel injected with each injector pulse.:)

Edit: Maybe you're thinking under boost conditions and I am considering during idle (vacuum).:thumb:
 
So I gave up and I towed my car to a shop down the street from my house. I get a call today and he says my ignition coils are bad; however, I used the chilton's book and tested the coils using the secondary methods and they were within specs. He says I should have used the primary method... but while he was speaking to me over teh phone, it sounded like he didn't even do any testing whatsoever, but instead just assumed it was the coils.:confused:

My question for future reference is how do i do a primary ignition coil test on a 1997 RS using a B+ pin??

PS. Hopefully, the ignition coil is the problem because he quoted me $385 for coil and spark plugs (even though I changed plugs like 2wks ago). :dsm:
 
I just got my car back from the shop and the mechanic just replaced the ignition coil... total came out to be $328 (150 for coil, 150 for labor, and 28 for new set of plugs). but it is still idling really bad... like it is lumpy idle... and if i just let it idle the car will eventually die out!! However, the code that came up when my car arrived at the shop was P0352: Ignition Coil B Primary Circuit... and the mitsubishi service manual says the probable cause is: ignition coil wiring harness or connector failed. But how would I test those things?
 
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