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Rattling Noise after Rebuild at low RPM

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domenico_169

20+ Year Contributor
428
0
Sep 17, 2002
Edmonton,
K well i just partially re-built my engine, and now at idle it sounds fine, and between 1000 and about 2500 rpm it sounds like there is a weird internal noise on the driver side. around 2500 and above it seems to go away. please throw out any ideas. thanks.
p.s the car drives perfect and i have quaker state 10w30
 
i knew people were gonna bi*** about the partial rebuild, anyways i asked for help, not to start a flaming thread. anyways... timing belt tensioner hey? just those two bolts holding it in you think?
 
Don't start a post and then nag us for wanting more information to help you. Its vital to know what you were ####ing with under your car so as to generalize the problem.


Your an asshat for chewing him out and I would leave your car on the side of the road for it.

Btw your motors prolly ####ed cuz your just retarded.
 
DsMWookie said:
Don't start a post and then nag us for wanting more information to help you. Its vital to know what you were ####ing with under your car so as to generalize the problem.


Your an asshat for chewing him out and I would leave your car on the side of the road for it.

Btw your motors prolly ####ed cuz your just retarded.


hey you, go blow some steam off somewhere else before you get this thread closed, ya facker/ :nono:
 
Anyways enough with all this childish nonsense. Anyone second the idea of it being the tensioner? You think the tensioner just went bad? I dont get it. The sound is definetely coming from the driver side of the engine. And i just cant figure out why it would go away at a certain rpm.
 
Any vibration with the noise? Possible Balance shaft belt that's broke or a front Balance shaft out of phase?
 
no, no real vibration. im gonna change the tensioner tommorow and ill let you guys know. any idead until then please tell me.
 
k i didnt change the tensioner yet, but get this, i think i did something wrong because there is play in the tensioner pulley... should there be? how do i fix it?
 
ok, I didn't mean the "hydraulic" tensioner. I meant the tensioner pulley itself. If you ever read the VFAQ procedure on 1/2G dsms, you'll notice the tensioner pulley is eccentric, meaning the bolt is offset from center, and its not set to the correct preload, therefore causing slack in the timing belt, because the Hydaulic part of the tensioner cannot compensate for it.

There is tons of info in the VFAQ.

I wouldn't drive the car in that condition, and to be honest I would be leary to even start it until I had a better idea of what the problem is or could be.

gsxtacy
 
When I got my car back 900 miles ago, I had everything re-done and brand new except the block. At first, I heard a weird metal sound when I was in gear decelerating around 2000rpms or so, Maybe alittle higher. Is this what yours is doing? You coulden't hear it all the time, But also when I would push the clutch in, Then let it out slowly I was also able to hear it. Now the noise has totally gone away and has been gone for awhile, No idea what it was :)
 
gsxtacy was right about part of it. the noise is gone, and there wasnt enough tension being put on. Noise is all gone and my timing marks are FINALLY right. thank god.
 
1993eclipseGS said:
When I got my car back 900 miles ago, I had everything re-done and brand new except the block. At first, I heard a weird metal sound when I was in gear decelerating around 2000rpms or so, Maybe alittle higher. Is this what yours is doing? You coulden't hear it all the time, But also when I would push the clutch in, Then let it out slowly I was also able to hear it. Now the noise has totally gone away and has been gone for awhile, No idea what it was :)


that would be the throw out bearing.
 
domenico_169 said:
k i didnt change the tensioner yet, but get this, i think i did something wrong because there is play in the tensioner pulley... should there be? how do i fix it?

first take out the hydrolic tentioner, it should be 2 bolts then if you really dont want to take the water pump pulley off two get to the bolt on the other tensioner, get a 14 or 15mm wrench and losen it then pry it with a pipe to give the belt some tension and tighten the screw at the same time then use a c clamp to slowly compress the hydrolic tensioner again and stick a little pin in it to keep it from retracting then bolt it back on and pull the pin and you should be good to go
 
OR use a vice to compress the tensioner, THEN use the correct tool (there is a Mitsubishi/DIY tool to set the timingfor a reason....you know) and torque the tensioner pulley to the specified torque setting.

Do it however, so long as you are okay with it.

gsxtacy
 
I have this rattling noise also, and my motor has -0- miles on it right now. I didnt wanna drive it with that noise, so i just didnt do it. I dont understand what it could be, the head/valvetrain has been re-conditioned, valve job, pressure tested ports, decked/milled to mirror finish, valves are not bent or chunked up. I put the cam bearing caps on with thread locker and torqued it to whatever the specs say, and still noise. I had some horrendous lifter tick for a little bit during the initial warm-up, but it went away quickly, so quick I forgot it was even there. But as for this rattling noise, its just metal on metal sounds, like somethings loose/vibrating but its coming from under the valve cover. Its only at certain RPMs like a previous poster stated, its not valve smack because compression wouldnt be good. I thought it was piston smack at first, but nope...it cant be. I'd really like to know that this wont be a problem that requires me to take apart motor again and fix things, as I havent driven my car for 4 months... I set the tension on the motor and my power enterprise timing belt in accordince with the clearance specs given on vfaq.com, i used a micrometer to figure out which size drill bit to use. Trust me, there is plenty of tension on my belt. The two bolts are tight with thread locker as well, along with all other important things. The best I could get the marks was at 0 * TDC. If you looked on the crank pulley timing mark, its not even a tooth's width off, but with the cover on and the balancer pulley on, its TDC. Im gonna change that with my adjustable cam gears. Oh well, thats my story and logic behind whats going on in my head as far as my new motor's concerned. Please send me a PM with any 'enlighting' info and as to what you did to make this noise go away. Also, tell me what you think it could be related to. :coy:
 
Turbo Talon DL said:
as for this rattling noise, its just metal on metal sounds, like somethings loose/vibrating but its coming from under the valve cover. Its only at certain RPMs like a previous poster stated, its not valve smack because compression wouldnt be good. I thought it was piston smack at first, but nope...it cant be.
Oh but it can be. You would be wise to recheck your cam timing. I've seen the exhaust cam off a tooth or 2 and the valves where taping the pistons. Didn't bend anything as the lifters compressed and didn't fully compress so no bent valves. Compression was 155 across the board but sure enough the cam was off a bit. Plus if you havn't taken your timing cover off a few times yet it will give you more practice. I had a Old oil pump sieze up after I put a engine back together. Didn't put grease in the oil pump gears after the BSE and it just siezed in a matter of seconds. I had everthing off in like 5-10 minutes.

Good luck
 
Ok, so you think my timing being at TDC vs 5*BTDC could be an issue? I had that thing off monday and put it back together after i had the belt off. Somehow, it ends up lining up identically to when I first installed it, and i did it two different ways OMG Oh well, im open to criticism and suggestions
 
before i forget, just wanna thank gsxtacy again, car runs like a dream now an no noise. :D
 
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