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Quick Rod Bearing Replacement Question

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XiKeiyaZI

15+ Year Contributor
6,994
88
Dec 28, 2008
Goldsboro, North Carolina
Well, it seems like every Rod Bearing question is related to Failure so I wanted to make a thread more specific to the question I had. I am not experiencing failure, just a negligent memory as I missed my chance to replace the bearings while I had the engine on the stand. I was too anxious. :p

After reading a thread here and a friend running into a situation where he bought a block, pulled the caps, and the bearings were worn to the copper layer, I figured I would go ahead and pull my pan, T-Case, and caps to inspect my bearings. This Bottom End came out of a perfectly good running 1G without any issues. Compression is 150 across the board. No knocks or anything of the sort - but I figured with the recent rebuild I wouldn't want to risk the contaminated oil it would see during the first few hundred miles of flushing killing potentially worn bearings.

When I found were a gorgeous set of bearings. This engine had around 150k on it. All of the bearings have good wear patterns. No scratches, gouges, or anything of the sort. There are no chittering wear marks and it looks like they have gotten an ample amount of oil flow. My question is - due to the nature of the rods, bearings, and the fact that the crank is looking brand new - a standard set of ACL Trimetals (plastigauging before install of course) should be perfectly fine to slap in and go? I am -not- pulling this running engine to remove the crank and have it checked as I know without a doubt that it is in perfectly good condition. Rods look the same. So assuming that all is well down below - that question stands.

I chose ACL Trimetals over OEM, not for cost, but because I do plan on putting a little power down, aiming for a reasonable 400whp. These should be able to stand up to the abuse? Also, which weight oil should I use during my flush period? I've been running 10w30. Cutting the can open after 3 flushes has resulted in less and less 'dust'. Only a flake here and there in the pan - all aluminum from what must have been missed when the head was drilled and cleaned.
 
Based on your assumptions, I'd say go for it. I'm not usually a proponent of slap and go replacement on bottom end parts but you seem very sure of your crank condition. I would recommend checking the rods for OOR on the big end just for some insurance. Tri-Metals are fine for your power goals, I'm running them on my build and shooting for significantly higher numbers. I've also ran them in a couple of 500+ hp builds without an issue. (non dsm) As far as flushing... I'm of two minds. One side says use a thinner oil with low viscosity to get through every inch of the motor easily and quickly; the other side says use a thicker oil with high viscosity to push particles out of all the crevices and hold them in suspension to remove them from the motor.
 
Based on your assumptions, I'd say go for it. I'm not usually a proponent of slap and go replacement on bottom end parts but you seem very sure of your crank condition. I would recommend checking the rods for OOR on the big end just for some insurance. Tri-Metals are fine for your power goals, I'm running them on my build and shooting for significantly higher numbers. I've also ran them in a couple of 500+ hp builds without an issue. (non dsm) As far as flushing... I'm of two minds. One side says use a thinner oil with low viscosity to get through every inch of the motor easily and quickly; the other side says use a thicker oil with high viscosity to push particles out of all the crevices and hold them in suspension to remove them from the motor.

Trust me, if I felt there was danger to the condition of the engine I would pull it. I'm not keen to the idea of slinging a rod through the block. Haha. I went over the crank journals over and over to see if I could find so much as a hairline scratch and came up with nothing. Bearings, again, are all in great condition. Just want to ensure that they are fresh since I don't plan on doing this again.

That's great news on the bearings. Thank you.

For the oil... you have a point. Perhaps I'll mix it up a bit. This last oil change yielded little to no particles so I think I'm nearing the 'clean' side of things. :)
 
Ended up finding a set of Clevite 77 Trimetals. Decided I would give those a shot instead. Finally received them a day - Took STM 4 days to even process my order. Anywho, Measured them against the old ones, installed them pretty easily, slapped on the rod caps in the proper order/direction, torqued the rod bolts to 38ft/lbs, rotated the crank easily, and calling it done. :)
 
Is this stock engine? 38ft lbs seems a little loose, but then again, i have scats with arp hardware requiring a 50ftlb torque.

Stm has been very busy I'm currently waiting a manifold to be built and they said they couldn't even start for 3 weeks. This was on the first. Oh well wait is fine for quality product, although i jave yet to see anyone run the STM manifold haha.
 
Is this stock engine? 38ft lbs seems a little loose, but then again, i have scats with arp hardware requiring a 50ftlb torque.

Stm has been very busy I'm currently waiting a manifold to be built and they said they couldn't even start for 3 weeks. This was on the first. Oh well wait is fine for quality product, although i jave yet to see anyone run the STM manifold haha.

Depends on which bolts came with the rods. Eagle's have torque values anywhere from 29-72 ft/lbs based on which ARP set they came with.
 
For the record I'm running stock rod bolts. 38ft/lbs is what factory calls for em? I have the pan down, still. I have read to -not- use loctite, but what's the case with that? 30ft/lbs and blue loctite?
 
So I'll be firing her up today. Should I give the rod bearings a set amount of time for breakin, or..?
 
Nope, no break in is necessary. In fact, most people here successfully use the motoman break in method (myself included) where you run your fresh engine hard right from the initial start up!
 
Nope, no break in is necessary. In fact, most people here successfully use the motoman break in method (myself included) where you run your fresh engine hard right from the initial start up!

I actuallu use the motoman method but was more under the impression that break in focused on ring seating. Wasn't sure if bearings had a break in period.

Torquing the bolt to spec stretches it and keeps the nut from backing off.

With 6 bolt rod cap studs, how relevent is the stretching factor? I know that 7 bolt studs aren't as beefy but have heard both positive and negative about loctite on rod cap studs.
 
I actuallu use the motoman method but was more under the impression that break in focused on ring seating. Wasn't sure if bearings had a break in period.



With 6 bolt rod cap studs, how relevent is the stretching factor? I know that 7 bolt studs aren't as beefy but have heard both positive and negative about loctite on rod cap studs.

Bearings do not need a "wear in" or "break in" period. You are correct that break in is for ring seating/sealing. I and many others have used the motoman method with great success over the years. I've never encountered a stretch issue with the 1G rod bolts, unless they were continually over-torqued, you shouldn't have any worries as long as the bearings clearance correctly. You can measure stretch if it really concerns you, my FSM disc burned up or I would grab you the max. stretch values, maybe someone else has that info readily available.
 
Righte-o. Just wanted to ensure there wasn't a short bit in which they should be given time to make their wear, so to speak. :) Now I know and learning is always great.

Fired her up and she purred - save for the damn lifters. Even after bleeding they're just rattling away, shutting up one at a time in a horribly slow way. -exhale- Hopefully they'll shut up in a day or so.

I appreciate all of the information guys! It's been a knowledge filled experience.
 
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