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Quick! plugs look messed up???

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faulkner

Proven Member
191
1
Apr 22, 2013
spring lake, Michigan
I took off my valve cover because i have a lifter tick all of a sudden after
doing a 3rd gear pull? anyways i wanted to check my plugs and see this..
only one plug looks normal what caused this are they bad now? help quick
please

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And would these work better? look better condition?

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try to reload the page, the filament or whatever inside the plug that comes out has something around it,
or should. and it looks like only one has it and on all the others its broke off

http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r720/farkusgizzard/IMAG0554_zps7ec00576.jpg
these are the ones i just pulled and look broken
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http://i1363.photobucket.com/albums/r720/farkusgizzard/IMAG0556_zpsc390df10.jpg
these are ones laying around that look a little better LOL
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Wow man that sucks! All the ceramic insulator pieces went through your engine. I wouldn't use any of those spark plugs; you need to get a NEW set of NGK BPR6ES or BPR7ES plugs. They shouldn't cost you more than about $8 for a set, and then replace them every year minimum.

And by god man, whatever you do, don't put Champion plugs in your engine again.
 
Do you have oil leaking in the plug well? That yellowing is cause by oil contamination. The third plug from the left looks heavily worn, the rest of them look like you have some knocking going on. Possibly too lean under wot?
 
i have no idea i think it was from no safc or wideband at 24 psi. now i have both installed and boost down.
will NGK R BPR6EKN work for a 95 gst??
 
i have no idea i think it was from no safc or wideband at 24 psi.

Bingo :thumb: I would agree with that statement. Maybe the ticking lifter has something to do with whatever the ceramic chunks contacted on the way out.





now i have both installed and boost down.
will NGK R BPR6EKN work for a 95 gst??

You may as well experiment with them and find out for us. :tease:
What else do you have to lose? Besides, the right plugs are like $2 a piece.:rolleyes:
 
Ya I agree with statements above there is a cause for the breakage of the spark plug they do not just fall apart enless you break them putting in or taking out which can happen time to time. just get some new ones that are made for your car and take a good look at the lifters and when you do an oil change look for contaiments in your oil. if you replace one lifter I would just replace all of them at same time. that's what I was always taught while working on cars. make sure your oil levels are good also lack of oil will cause lifter noise. you probally already know most of this just thought I would chime in since its right down my ally with experience.
 
You're definitely destroying those plugs running that boost and no tuning. Heat is gonna crack/errode the ceramic away in no time. You need to change the plugs, go back to stock boost until you can properly monitor your AFR's and wouldn't hurt to change heat range as well.
 
You got off easy, friend with his Honda had a chunk of his spark plug come loose and killed and nearly seized one of his cylinders/piston, ultimately giving him rod knock. Wait are you hearing light tapping or knocking?
 
i've had a rod knock before. its not that. and great..pistons and everything were just replaces. i have a wideband and safc right now with the boost down. trying to tune my car in. just confusing to me.

it sounds like a rod knock at idle..but when im driving say 2100 rpms its gone. only at idle it ticks
 
How long ago did you change your oil, what weight and what's the temperatures like right now where you live? After you get everything sorted out and the ticking is gone do a compression and leak down test on your cylinders for good measure..

And to clarify, when my friends Honda ate the sparkplug, it took everything under the insulator tip, the bridge looking thing and all. We suspect the piston made direct contact with the plug THEN broke it (used some generic plug where the threads were longer). And his car ran really bad after replacing the plugs (despite the knocking at ALL rpms) Hope you get everything sorted out
 
Its going away. I've been using rotella. Going to change it later and see if I find
Any surprises. I think I just need help tuning it...

Been about 2k miles since oil change. And I live in Michigan so temps vary from 50-75 every day LOL
 
Im not a fan of rotella, and I know this is mainly personal preference but since you're just about up for an oil change go with a synthetic Mobil 1, Id suggest 10W-30 since it will be getting warmer, and in the winter use 5W-30. Use a good oil filter, the walmart ones are crap. Get that taken care of asap and see if the ticking goes away.

And Google a tuning shop see if there are any places around to help you, maybe even search around the Michigan forums (maybe dsmtuners has one). A good tune is CRUCIAL to a healthy motor.
 
Sad to say the world we live in before you buy stuff get it checked out by a professional if you don't know what your doing.
 
I feel ya on the buying a modded one and it being a bag of issues, for the whole 15 day temporary registration I've had I've had to rewire every marker light, get a rear spoiler with 3rd brake in it, rewire a horn, try and find a full stock windshield washer fluid system with nozzles... still haven't finished and got it to pass safety yet. Been fun fixing a hack ass wire delete when someone takes all the important ones out...
 
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