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1G Questions about replacing front struts and mounts

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XC92

Proven Member
1,573
362
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
I just replaced the front struts on my '92 Talon TSi AWD, along with the mounts, boots, stoppers and pads. The only parts I reused were the springs and seats, which I cleaned, derusted and painted so it all looks nice and has corrosion protection. I used the strut and mount nuts that came with the new parts. Everything is KYB, except the pads, which were OEM. The struts are GR-2 / Excel-G, nothing fancy.

Thing is, I forgot to swap over the thick top nut washers from the old struts and mounts, and the whole assemblies are now installed in my car. Since the strut towers and steering knuckles are compressing the springs, is it ok/safe to remove the top bolt on each assembly to insert the washers? Or do I have to remove them, compress them with a spring compressor again, in order to safely and properly do this?

Also, while we're at it, I got everything from RockAuto, including the mounts. Only, because each mount was shipped separately, I got 2 different mounts sourced from 2 different makers. Apparently RockAuto does this sometimes. I tried to get them to send me a matching set, but their replacement policy only covers defective parts, so I was stuck with the "mismatched" pair. They're both correct for my car, just not the same brand. One has a fully sealed bearing, the other is open. Both seem fine.

What I'm wondering is, do I have to apply grease to the sealed bearing, under the rubber cap on top, or only to the open one? And what kind of grease should I use? Right now I have Lucas green and red, along with silicone-based brake pin lube. I might also have some white lithium grease somewhere. Would any grease work, or only certain kinds?
 
It shouldn't be an issue to remove the nut to add the washer. Only case where I could see it being an issue is if you have the motor and trans out of the car and there isn't enough weight to compress the spring. As long as the car is sitting on all 4 tires you'll be good.

As far as the bearing I would look to see which grease has better washout properties since you want it to repel water from the bearing as much as possible. I saw a youtube video that ProjectFarm did on testing Lucas red n tacky and it has good washout properties. Marine would be the best IMO but not necessary. I'd use red if that's what you've got. I've never used green but it would probably work just as well. Just look for anything about washout properties on the tube to see what it says.

Also you don't have to apply any grease to the sealed bearing. If you do it won't hurt anything. May help keep moisture out if water was to get under the cap but really strut mount bearings are not something i've seen commonly fail. I've seen the mounts rot before the bearings go bad.
 
Thanks. Common sense tells me that it would be ok to temporarily remove the nut but I prefer the advice of people who have some experience with this when it comes to potentially dangerous situations. Doesn't seem like there's anywhere for either end of the spring to go, but still, weirder things have happened and I like to play it safe.

And I'll use the red stuff. It was what was there in the old mounts.

Actually, I was just thinking that if I remove the top bolt even with the strut installed in the car and the car on the ground (i.e. not on jacks), couldn't the actual strut shoot up through the mount hole, and it would be almost impossible to push it back? Or does the mount take care of that, and with the mount kept in place by the strut tower, there's no worry there?

I'm just trying to play out every possible scenario to avoid a bad situation.

I'll play around with the old struts and mounts to see if this is even possible. I'm guessing not, but I want to be sure before proceeding.
 
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