XC92
Proven Member
- 1,573
- 362
- Jul 22, 2020
-
Queens,
New_York
I just replaced the rear struts on my '92 Talon TSi AWD and want to make sure I did it correctly.
I got new struts, mounts & bellows/bumpers, all KYB (non-adjustable since I'm running stock). I reused the stock springs, brackets and cups, which appeared to be in good shape, after removing all rust, cleaning and painting them. I've rebuilt strut assemblies before so I'm pretty sure I did it right, using spring compressors of course.
I'm just wondering whether I used the right parts that came with the new struts and mounts. The KYB mount kit, part # SM5091, came with a metal sleeve, washer and 2 bushings, all identical to the stock parts they replaced. These were the parts I used. But it also came with an additional bushing that was slightly higher than the stock one. This is the one that goes on top of the bracket. What's this additional higher one for? Could it be for use with lowering springs, to compensate for the shorter throw, or for otherwise modifying the rear suspension?
The struts also came with a washer that wasn't part of the stock assembly. It was relatively thin, I'd say around 1.5mm. Not sure what to do with it or whether to even use it, I ended up putting it on top of the metal flange on the upper part of the strut rod, that goes right under the metal cap, figuring that it was meant to spread the load on upward rod movement. I hope this doesn't throw everything off. If it's not supposed to be used on 1G DSM AWD's, I'll remove it. I haven't driven the car yet as there's still some other work to be done.
Finally, tightening the top nut was a bit complicated. The supplied nut uses a nylon self-locking insert, and after a few turns it locks onto the threads and turning it further turns the rod. The top of the rod has a rectangular tip with the short ends slightly rounded, that I assumed were wrench flats to secure the rod while tightening the nut. But this makes it impossible to use a torque wrench with a socket. I could have used a crow foot socket but I don't have one in the correct size (14mm IIRC) and using one changes the torque setting. Instead, I used a combo wrench to tighten it by hand, until I felt resistance, where I gave it another turn or so.
I got new struts, mounts & bellows/bumpers, all KYB (non-adjustable since I'm running stock). I reused the stock springs, brackets and cups, which appeared to be in good shape, after removing all rust, cleaning and painting them. I've rebuilt strut assemblies before so I'm pretty sure I did it right, using spring compressors of course.
I'm just wondering whether I used the right parts that came with the new struts and mounts. The KYB mount kit, part # SM5091, came with a metal sleeve, washer and 2 bushings, all identical to the stock parts they replaced. These were the parts I used. But it also came with an additional bushing that was slightly higher than the stock one. This is the one that goes on top of the bracket. What's this additional higher one for? Could it be for use with lowering springs, to compensate for the shorter throw, or for otherwise modifying the rear suspension?
The struts also came with a washer that wasn't part of the stock assembly. It was relatively thin, I'd say around 1.5mm. Not sure what to do with it or whether to even use it, I ended up putting it on top of the metal flange on the upper part of the strut rod, that goes right under the metal cap, figuring that it was meant to spread the load on upward rod movement. I hope this doesn't throw everything off. If it's not supposed to be used on 1G DSM AWD's, I'll remove it. I haven't driven the car yet as there's still some other work to be done.
Finally, tightening the top nut was a bit complicated. The supplied nut uses a nylon self-locking insert, and after a few turns it locks onto the threads and turning it further turns the rod. The top of the rod has a rectangular tip with the short ends slightly rounded, that I assumed were wrench flats to secure the rod while tightening the nut. But this makes it impossible to use a torque wrench with a socket. I could have used a crow foot socket but I don't have one in the correct size (14mm IIRC) and using one changes the torque setting. Instead, I used a combo wrench to tighten it by hand, until I felt resistance, where I gave it another turn or so.
