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1G Questions about oil change

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XC92

Proven Member
1,561
356
Jul 22, 2020
Queens, New_York
After it sat around for over 6 years without being driven and the engine rarely being operated, I decided that the first oil change on my '92 Talon TSi AWD would be using "sacrificial" oil that would be replaced (along with the filter) after a few hundred miles, to clean out the old gunk that had accumulated in the engine, pan, pump, pipes, etc., before being replaced with oil that would stay there for the regular duty cycle before being changed again (i.e. 3-6 months & 3000-6000 miles, depending on use).

I used Walmart's house brand for this, Super Tech, a full synth 10W-30 oil that had good reviews and was most likely more than good enough for this task. But when it's time to drain it and replace it with better oil, I'm probably going to go with Pennzoil Platinum full synth (as opposed to their Ultra Platinum, which seems unnecessary and overkill for my car and needs), mainly because I can get it for a decent price and right now they're running a $22 rebate on Shell gas if you buy 2 of them, and they go for $22 each, so it's basically a BOGO so long as you're ok filling up with Shell, which I am.

In fact when it comes time to dump out this "sacrificial" oil, I'll probably drop the oil pan and clean things out as best I can, as I don't think it's ever been done on my car before and who knows what junk is in there by now, plus I have to remove all the parts you have to remove to do this anyway, for something else (trans repair). I'm almost too afraid to find out what's there. I intend to seal with Ultra Black RTV, per the FSM.

My questions are:

1 - Any reason to not use Pennzoil Platinum, and go with a different brand and type? I'm not asking if you think this or that oil is better, as this isn't that kind of question. Rather, is there anything known about this oil that makes it a poor fit for my specific car?

2 - Any reason to get the Ultra Platinum instead? It's supposed to run "cleaner" due to extra additives, but I'm guessing that this is only beneficial for highly-modded engines with way more than stock power, run to their limits on a regular basis, as in racing or extremely "spirited" driving (of which I will do neither).

3 - Any tips on cleaning things up as much as possible when dropping the oil pan? (And yes, I will use new gaskets on the screen and return tubes, and of course drain plug.) Should I pour some additive like Seafoam or Mystery Oil into the oil filler opening some miles before dumping the oil, to clean up the engine itself?

4 - I heard that the additives in Pennzoil Platinum tend to settle to the bottom in storage and you have to shake the bottle a bit before pouring it into the car. Is this true?

5 - Other than a slight leak around the oil pan seal, another by the valve cover gasket which is long past needing replacement, and possibly one by the rear seal--all very slight--the engine isn't leaking too badly, or losing oil, and I plan on replacing all of these soon. So should I stay away from "High Mileage" oil, and would using it damage otherwise good seals?
 
I would use the brand you are most comfortable with that meets Mitsubishi's requirements. If you are going to flush your oil system get the really cheap detergent dino oil, run it to operating temp, drain & fill, and keep do this until the drained oil is no longer discolored from any containment, then final fill with your oil of choice.

My personal preference is to stay away from high mileage oils until it is obvious time to switch from regular oil. High mileage oils have extra additives designed to swell seals & gaskets to minimize leaks. This will cause premature wear of good seals & you will not be able to benefit from high mileage oils later when the seals are worn. You will forever have oil leaks switching back to regular oil too.

This is not really a big deal.
 
So maybe another cycle or two of cheap oil (using the same filter I assume?), and only then fill it with the "good" stuff?
 
Maybe add a little bit of transmission fluid to the oil and let it idle for 30min or so in 15min intervals to clean it up, transmission fluid is a detergent, I'm not a fan of Seafoam or any of those snake oils like that, the only one that I can say for a fact that works is a Yamaha product "ring free", other than that some transmission fluid will clean stuff pretty good, then you can rinse the pan out with some mineral spirits. I like Valvoline VR1 in the cars if you dont have a catalytic converter and dont need one, the zinc in that oil will end up killing a converter over time though. For temporary oil its more important to have the right amount and the right viscosity that meets all of the standards in the service manual rather than a certain brand.
 
I would have just started it with whatever was in the engine, then changed it and ran. You aren't really accomplishing anything when you attempt to flush it. Modern engine oil is fantastic at keeping everything clean on its own.

I would never put transmission fluid in my engine.
 
If you are thinking of dropping the oil pan, do it now and start fresh, you will be able to get a better idea of what you have, and then proceed with your oil changes.
Just about any brand oil will suffice for your first or second change.
You could add a quart of tranny oil, mineral spirits even brake fluid, this is nothing new and they will do no harm if used as stated before, then go ahead with your favorite oil.
Mandy
 
Dropping the pan on a gsx seems like a bit of effort, and requires removing several other things first. Not that it’s a bad idea, but perhaps also a good time to check bearing clearance “while you’ve got it apart” ( a phrase that has been known to sometimes bring regret). Rabbit hole alert!
 
Question 1. Assuming you use the currect weight/viscosity I dont see a issue with Pennzoil Platinum in a ''stock'' non spiritied driven car.

Question 2. Ultra Platinum is suppose to be a even "cleaner" oil as you stated. Even more detergents in my experience the Platinum is already a "cleaner" oil then most. the Ultra Platinum also does very good on most oil tests. Beating out and competing with many big name oils. Believe its the factory oil in all SRT vehicles. Hellcats are probably agood real life oil test rig. If you want better protection wouldnt hurt to step up to the Ultra Platinum but probably not necessary for you by the sounds of it.

Question 3. I wouldnt use any additive in the oil to clean the the engine unless you thought it was extremely Dirty. Oil already has detergents in it to clean and pennzoil platinum has a bit to do more then just keep it clean . {might not be a bad idea to put seafoam or whatever you prefer in fresh gas to help clean the injectors and valves tho}. VR1 is a great oil oil but has little to no detergents in it so wouldnt recommend it as a flush/clean out oil. I like to change my oil shortly after any time I do work where the engine is opened up such as valve cover/ oil pan. you can be super careful but a little contamination is bound to find its way in there. No specific mileage but a do like to drive the car to agitate the oil rather then just a fill and drain. Id say you could use the "sacrificial" oil to do this but not so when droping the oil pan. so youll have two "sacrificial' oil changes. depending on what you see in the pan and under the valve cover you might decide to to run Utra Platinum and maybe to do a half life oil change after the second "flush" if you thought it was concerning, the actual oil pan itself Brake clean and wipe it out with something lint free. Make sure the oil pan is good and dry before reassembly.

Question 4. Possibly Ive heard of all oil doing this. I figure walking with it in the store and the car ride home shakes it up enough. But shaking the oil jug before pouring it in isnt going to hurt anything I guess.

Question 5. Ive never used High Milage oil. If your replacing the seals/gaskets it most likely unecessary.

Make sure to check/replace your timing Belt after six years
 
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