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1G question for the auto awd users...bad tranny or tcu maby

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mitsubishimanic

10+ Year Contributor
371
1
Nov 4, 2010
clarkston, Washington
so i need some help from the auto awd drivers. im looking in to a new talon for a dd its a 92 awd auto. its super clean and very stock. but the problem is is that it seems to bee stuck in third. i will go into reverse neutral and drive but only into third. i has almost no power till u get going the reason i think its stuck in third is i got it up to 35 in town and it never shifted and was at low rpms. i really want this car but only if its like the tcu or someting simple. any i ideas would be awesome or things to check out. i dont know any thing about autos all my car are 5 speeds this will be a car me and the wife can drive.
 
I got one other question. I snapped the speed sensor that comes up through the rear trans. mount when I was removing the engine. I've replaced the sensor yet my speed-o-meter is still dead. The trans worked fine for many miles this way. Is that the speed sensor that runs the trans? Or is there a separate sensor for that?
 
The speed sensor unbolts on a 2g correct? It's one piece IIRC. It could possibly not be seated on the trans surface all the way or the harness is damaged. I would unbolt it and pop it out. Then re-seat it and bolt it back in.

If it still doesn't work check the harness.
 
The speed sensor unbolts on a 2g correct? It's one piece IIRC. It could possibly not be seated on the trans surface all the way or the harness is damaged. I would unbolt it and pop it out. Then re-seat it and bolt it back in.

If it still doesn't work check the harness.

Yea it does come out its one bolt on the side of the flange. Unfortunately I've had the engine and trans out twice on this car and I know the guys I got it from had it out a couple times as well so its likely that the harness being moved that many times and hung and stuffed outta the way could have broken the wire as well.

On the transmission.

First I would check for continuity between pins 109/104 and pin 51 with the car in park.

Pins 109 and 104 supply power to the inhibitor. The inhibitor then relays shifter location by back feeding that power to Pins:

51 Black-Yellow - Park
52 Red-Yellow - Reverse
53 Black-White - Neutral
54 Yellow - Drive
55 Yellow-Black - 2
56 Yellow-Red - Low

Also check voltage on those pins. Ground one lead on your multimeter and pop the other into either 109 or 104.

It could be that the TCU is not supplying power to the switch, I'm not sure the voltage. Hopefully someone can shed light on it.

On the 2g wiring diagram it shows the TCU and selector switch are powered off the same junction block. I've got no voltage at the two power supplies for the TCU and also no voltage on the power for the selector switch (on the trans). So I'm thinking that the fuse in that block is blow but what does that little sucker look like?
 
1g autos are different than 2g . 1g has a mitsu trans and the 2g has a chrysler and i don't think they work the same way . the 2g has an input and output speed sensor on the front of the trans .the output sensor also works the speedometer .on the 1g i believe the speed sensor is in the rear like you said and it should work the speedo . its set up like the manual trans . try checking your wiring to the sensor maybe that got damaged. how is your fluid does it smell burnt if it does then you have an internal problem . take the pan down and see if there is any metal .
 
1g autos are different than 2g . 1g has a mitsu trans and the 2g has a chrysler and i don't think they work the same way .
They are actually very similar..The lockup converter being the biggest difference..
 
It does seem very likely the harness is damaged. Trust me when I say this, it doesn't take more than just unplugging a connector on these cars. Unless it has 22k miles like a 1g I saw today. I would be willing to bet that your wiring is or was covered in oil and or detergents used to clean the oil off. I've seen those situations, combined with heat, making the sheathing on the wire brittle. And moving that wire once is enough to crack it. And after time they start to slowly fray and eventually break. For us it's injectors.... Those are changed and checked frequently here. And they like to break as often as we like to check them.
 
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