The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Question about motor oil

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

talontsiboy24

10+ Year Contributor
868
3
Mar 28, 2009
60457, Illinois
i have a 97 gsx with moderate/heavy mods 128k miles and temps are droppin in the 30s-40s at night out here and my car has been on mobil 1 synthetic 15w-50 for a longtime.

the previous owner told me he used it always so im thinkin its too thick for now so is it ok if i switch to mobil 1 synthetic 10w-40 or will my car feel different? i just dont wanna make the wrong move. they say its better to use thick oil when u have high mileage?
 
Last edited:
Factory recomends 10w30 but the car will be fine. Keep in mind that the first number is for when the engine is cold and the second is at operating temp. I would run 10w30 in cold weather to help lower startup oil pressure, maybe even 5w30 since it gets cold up there. Just do not go below the operating temp range of 30.
 
Oh c'mon. 30-40 F isn't cold. :tease:

but yea, 5W30 would probably be your best bet.

Now, even better would be to plug your block heater in. :sneaky:
 
I would run 5w30. Actually in my old dsm I used to run 0-30 because the lifters were so damn noisie and I was to cheap to change them pluse it was just a daily driver with 234k on it. Also I like to run a lighter fluid in my tranny durring the winter. Makes for easier shifting when cold.
 
Yea, "W" means "winter. I'm a 10w30 all year around.

But, when you think you might really get cold, put a clear 100w bulb in a drop cord fixture and place it under and close to the oil pan during the nights to keep the oil warm.
 
I would use 5w30 since winter is coming soon. The heavier weight oil will not flow as well when you first start the car.
 
I told you last night that 15w50 was too heavy for all seasons, and to run 10w30 oil.

Did you really need to make a thread about it?
 
If the factory calls for a 10w30, then run a 10w30. They don't say if you live in florida run xxWxx, and if you live in Alaska run xxWxx.

These two weights are viscosity ratings. 10w30 for example has a viscosity rating of 30 when COLD and 10 when WARM. 30 is thicker than 10.

These cars are not designed to be ran on oil that thick! Those oils are designed to targed older chevy and fords that have high mileage and are lackig in oil pressure. Running a thicker oil makes up for having sloppy engineering and loose bearings.

RUN 10w30!!!!
 
I thought "W" means "weight" not "winter".

No, W stands for Winter. It means that the oil is a multi-viscosity oil.

Generally they rate oils at 40*C and at 100*C. This means that at 40*C the oil has a viscosity rating of a SAE-10 oil. At 100*C it has the same the rating of a SAE-30 oil. This does not mean the oil is thinner at lower temperatures and thicker at higher temps. It means that the oil will not thin out at a higher temperature to viscosity less than what a 30wt oil would at the same temperature.

Pretty much a 10wt oil that stays a 10wt at both high and low temps.
 
No, W stands for Winter. It means that the oil is a multi-viscosity oil.

Generally they rate oils at 40*C and at 100*C. This means that at 40*C the oil has a viscosity rating of a SAE-10 oil. At 100*C it has the same the rating of a SAE-30 oil. This does not mean the oil is thinner at lower temperatures and thicker at higher temps. It means that the oil will not thin out at a higher temperature to viscosity less than what a 30wt oil would at the same temperature.

Pretty much a 10wt oil that stays a 10wt at both high and low temps.

:thumb::thumb:
 
Thicker oil is typically recommended when bearings are worn down and your oil pressure is low. At that point, your motor should be rebuilt anyways. At 128K miles, your bearings and such should still be pretty close to factory specs , as long as it's been properly maintained throughout it's life.
 
my car has a block heater?

Mine does. I don't know about you Americans though. Check your lower rad hose for a coolant heater (its technically an inline coolant heater but I just say block heater).

but my car has 128k miles and people say to stick with the thicker stuff for higher mileage engines?

128k miles isn't even that much. If it runs good and doesn't have leaks, just run some normal synthetic 5W30 and be done with it.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 91 tsi awd heavily modified
    91 talon tsi. it was modified on the to look like a 1gb (fixed healights). stock rods and...
    • george bromwell
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1g 1GA 91 GSX 5 speed take-out engine harness
    Around 2005(?) my local area was filled with guys buying up DSM’s and breaking/parting out...
    • pma1123
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g Eclipse/Talon Parts lot
    95-99 2G Eclipse/Talon Misc. Parts lot
    • Sdcryan1
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
Back
Top