Question about head removal and gasket replacement

[pdc]

I have a 2G Spyder. It has 130K miles on it. It runs strong and all maintenance is done on it. It has a big 16G, 650 injectors and SAFC, 3" exhaust, K&N intake. I just put on a boost controller and want to turn the boost up to about 25psi or maybe more. I'm concerned with that causing the head gasket to fail. Is there any problem with pulling the head installing ARP bolts and a metal head gasket and popping the head back on? Or whenever you remove the head, do you have to have it checked and surfaced? I'm trying to keep the cost down on this job. Is there any other areas of concern for an older motor with higher boost levels?

 

[moto x]

The best way is to get your head and block surfaced. If i was you i would at least get my head surfaced it only cost about 35 bucks.

 

[squeak104]

I'd at least get the head surfaced. The cost usually isn't that much. You don't need to get the block decked, they rarely do need it unless the motor has been through hell. Keeping costs low tends to get you into trouble.

 

[lee101315]

Also, at 130K you should probably overhaul the cylinder head. By that mileage, the valve guides should DEFINATELY be showing some wear. When the valve guides begin to show some play, the valve will not contact the seat properly (in addition to burning oil), and you will lose some compression through the valves. I also hear a lot of talk about installing evo8 sodium filled exhaust valves, but I cant confirm fitment. Rebuilding the head will ensure good running for a long time.

If you are still going to be stubborn, a simple way for you to check the valve seats is to lay the head on one side, and fill the intake or exhaust ports with gas. If the valves allow the fuel to pass through, you should overhaul the head.

 

[pdc]

So, would running a 130K motor at 20psi of boost be certain death for it? It's an automatic and I don't drive it hard often.

 

[winterftbl]

Theres really no way to tell because every motor is different. I personally would just put a thicker gasket on so that way you dont have to get it surfaced. But thats only if you want to keep the cost down. If you can spend the 30 bucks and get it surfaced. And why you have the head out you can port it and gain even more power.

 

[fourreGsixty3]

You will be having a coin toss as to when your engine may go. But as far as installing a HG, ect... It isn't nessisary to resurface (but it is a VERY good idea to do it), but I would check it for warpage by going to a machine shop, or checking it with a cylinder head/block straight edge (specialty tool, a ruler will NOT due), and a feeler guage. Go diagonaly, making an "X", then go the length way on top, and bottom of both the head, and block, the 5 thou shouldn't be able to slide under the straight edge at any spot's. You should have checked the head in atleast 15 spot's total, and the block just as many spot's. You don't have to have a metal HG, the OEM ones are able to hold in upward's of 33psi (with ARP head stud's).Also if you do use a metal HG cooper spray on the HG is a very good idea, also Ive heard through the grape vine that regular semi-gloss spray paint on the HG work's as a good sealant for the HG to block/cyl. head surfaces, but I have yet to try this. I have seen what people flow with 16G's at different psi level's. 21psi is flowing in the 37-39lbs/min level, and 23psi seem's to flow the most (without use of meth injection, or intercooler n20 sprayer's) at 40-41lbs/min. I would also go over your head with a fine tooth comb, and clean the carbon deposit's off the combustion chamber, and visually inspect for cracks.

Personally in my opinion I wouldn't go boosting it past 20psi depending on your knowledge of tuning. The 650's are at the outter limit's of a SAFC, and 20+psi is honestly a little sketchy to me with something the only modifys what the MAF is reading, and only have 2x16 area of "tuning" where as EMS' have 32x32, or 64x64, ect... for fine adjustment's.

If you have any question's don't hesitate to ask.

EDIT**

Theres really no way to tell because every motor is different. I personally would just put a thicker gasket on so that way you dont have to get it surfaced. But thats only if you want to keep the cost down. If you can spend the 30 bucks and get it surfaced. And why you have the head out you can port it and gain even more power.

Don't post something that you don't know about. How will a thicker HG help him if his head is warped, and leaking? It won't, just because its thicker doesn't mean that it will prevent leaking, especially if its a metal one, thestock HG's atleast allow for slight inconsistancy's, but metal ones can be unforgiving. Also don't tell someone they could port a cylinder head themselves if they don't know how to do it. You can take too much material from specific area's of a cylinder head, and you might as well just push it off the table cause you just ruined it. It is an art to learn how to port a cylinder head, and actually gain power, lot's of people who port a cylinder them selves are actually making air flow more turbulent, and slowing it down, thus making thing's worse, and more often than not hurting power.