quest for 12's, got some ideas. what do you think?

[Fryertuck75]

Hi guys im a newbie....but not an idiot. ive built a 12 sec. daytona and a 13 sec. neon. Now i bought a bone stock 1g awd tsi, with the intent to build a 12 sec. daily driver. Heres what I THINK, would be a good start.
Complete engine rebuild, with all forged rotating assembly (is forged necesary?)
DSM link
20g turbo
750cc injectors
hks 272 cams
255hp pump
FMIC
some kind of heavy duty clutch
2g MAF (is this the best choice?)
I know im forgeting some things, but i want to start on the engine right way, so when its out being built, I will go over the rest of this car to replace needed suppension components, and other normal maintainance. Im rather new to DSM's and im just wondering if this is not enough, or if its overkill, for the results that im looking for. Any help is appreciated. Thanks guys!!

 

[PIMking]

Ah good ole lifter tick.. get some 3g (revised lifters) for the vehicle that will stop the ticking.

 

[ApexVIII]

oh yea for sure if he can get E85 that ould be way better,

here in CA where i am there is hardly any E85 stations, i actually have never even seen one :/ so i kinda forget about E85 because i dont think it will be a option for me for alog long time .

and i ment get meth later dowwn the road onc you know how to tune and everything

Please don't take this as an arguement, i'm just stating a better optin for more power at about the same cost as what you mentioned. He would be MUCH better off (IMO anyway) to spend the alky ijection kit moeny and some of what was saved if he doesn't build the bottom end. And instead buy bigger injectors, 1000's or more, keep the 255 and get the AFPR and a 100 dollar -6 tank to rail line set and go E85...the money saved on by running e85 instead of race gas alone would surely pay fo those parts in the first season in fuel savings over c16, and make more power with less knock...corn power for the MF'in win baby!!!!!!!! I was a skeptic, the like a crack addict first hitting the pipe, i fiend for it everytime i find myself agains't a 50k dollar + sports car and want to show him what's up

And if he gets DSMlink ( or any other stand lone) he can have a e85 map for prowling around town, and then load a pump gas map for road trips or when finding yourself needing gas and not being able to find E85 where your at. I'm not sure if the ECMlink (dsmlink) v2 has this or not, but a lot of new stand alones have a switch that will allow you to change maps without a laptop at all... just program the 2 fuel and 2 spark tables as map sets 1 and 2 anduse a toggle to change between them...probably my favorite feature of my new haltech (old haltech i had didn'thave it so i tricked sensors to cut the extra fuel out when going back to pump...problem with that was you had to pick one sensor that had the range needed and then fool it with either a dead short or an open circuit and program the cell it goes into on default to globally trim the calues to where they are needed for "X" fuel whe you change

 

[DarkStarMenace]

All inputs are good. Most are from experience. My experience, don't do 14B or 16G. Not bad turbos, just for what you are trying to attain and possibly build on, look into a 20G or 50 trims. I still stand by opinion that 50-trims are easier to tune. I would say get what your heart desires and get the necessary parts to support. If you go to either of these turbos, look into porting intake and exhaust paths. Don't polish tho. I would say either of these turbos, AFPR, 255 FP, 850cc Injectors, DSMlink, flip a coin on the GM MAF or 2G MAF. Since you aren't spending on the bottom end, you have more room to play with. This setup will get you to where you want and then some. If you do plan to freshen the motor up, do new pistons. The crank and rods can take a beating, but depending on the pistons might require you to get new rods (someone else can chime in on that note). I have mostly dealt with 2G 7 bolt motors. I might be thinking of crossing over parts from 1 gen to the other with the rods. But like I said this setup will get you to where you wanna go and offer expandability.

 

[jrohner]

Now here's a long note on the durability of a wally 255 pump and "the must have theory" of an AFPR to go with it "or else" talk you hear.

I myself have run the same wally 255 from just about day one of owning the car ( 10 years and still going strong) I spent the first year, on a 16g, SAFc 550's, wally 255, a good exhaust and 2.5 IC piping i built. All of this on a stock fuel pressure regulator, stock fuel lines and stock fuel pump wiring (the stock wiring probably helped to limit the fuel pressure over-run.) And i always had a great idle, mileage and plenty of fuel wide open.

I have never actually seen fpr overrun myself. I've tuned my 2g, 1g, and my cousins 2g. None of the three have even so much as had weird fuel trims as any hint of even a slight fpr over run. I'm thinking that E85 helps since you are using more fuel, but I've somewhat-tuned the cars on gas first and seen nothing.

It makes me think that a couple guys had issues, and now everyone spreads that you have to have a fancy $200+ adjustable regulator instead of the stock one that works just fine.

 

[kahl23]

Now with v3 it is seriously easier to use a GM MAF. All you need is a $75 cable from ECMTuning and a MAF. You can either run it in a draw through setup putting the MAF in the stock location or the much more popular blow through setup with the MAF in the upper intercooler piping 6-8 inches before the throttle body. For you there's no real need to get a translator at all if you have v3.

 

[Wicked_Sick]

If that is your end goal than your setup will work well, but if you plan on going faster, you should get bigger injectors since youll be able to tune any size with dsmlink.

 

[Fryertuck75]

What parts in the drivetrain to I need to keep an eye on, that can commonley fail? (i.e.- transfer case, rear diff, trans)

 

[nlzn]

What parts in the drivetrain to I need to keep an eye on, that can commonley fail? (i.e.- transfer case, rear diff, trans)

Shouldn't have to worry about that too much unless you got unlucky with a poorly maintenaced chassis (like i did).
Keeping the fluid fresh in all 3 of them is a great idea. On the track preloading the drivetrain before launch will keep all of it breaking too fast

 

[My1GLaser]

What parts in the drivetrain to I need to keep an eye on, that can commonley fail? (i.e.- transfer case, rear diff, trans)

Center Diff on hard launches when you dump the clutch at high rpms. Mine has held up well for a year now with about 100 12 sec track passes and I have a VR4 tranny. I normally cut 1.7 60ft and have managed a few 1.6, but I don't dump the clutch.

 

[->PrOjEcTGS<-]

Try to locate and swap your 3 bolt for a 4 bolt LSD rear end. Also, if you are having the trans rebuilt make sure to get the 4 spider center diff option. It is very strong and will still let you turn sharply in parking lots as opposed to a Welded Center diff.

 

[dsmnit]

so i have a 92 tsi, i wanted to know if you need an safc if you have a 3 gm maf with translator?or does the translator pretty much do the same thing as the safc.also maf is in blow thru pos

 

[nlzn]

so i have a 92 tsi, i wanted to know if you need an safc if you have a 3 gm maf with translator?or does the translator pretty much do the same thing as the safc.also maf is in blow thru pos

The translator is just what it says, translate a signal that the ECU can read.

 

[abaum565]

I agree with E85. I know there is plenty in the Wausau, WI area, that's what I run and have never looked back.