Put the screws to my RS60T. It blew. . .

[dsm-onster]

Yea. I've been one yelling about how good AGP RS49T and RS60T turbos are. But here;s the deal. I recorded 56 lbs/min. Good thing is that my new clutch held and my suspension work held my FWD down even in the top of second!!! Then, I heard a "whirrrr, whiiirrrrrr" when revving . Major shaft play and this is the result:

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Needless to say, I'm pissed and I'm bitter. . .

I don't really care about BB vs. journal. I liked the 60-1 compressor wheel. Does anyone have any good info on the new GT-K series turbos? I know they are new. That is why I'm asking. Is there anything w/ these hat are comparable. I'd like more flow through the turbine. I was running a t3 stage 3. Decent spool. But not worth the loss in flow where the compressor was flowing good.

The new Borg-Warner turbos are turning me on. I don't know much of anything about them. So I don't know what is comparable for compressor flow or turbine flow considering the need for a bolt on housing (BEP). I'm seriously tempted to go back to my old 18G combo which I no longer have. I do have a small 16g compressor and center cartage w/ the td05h turbine wheel. No turbine housing. That's way out of the question considering my goals.

I could just get a turbochargers.com refill for pretty cheap. But, I'm not sure I want the t3 stage 3 wheel any more. I'd like to get a t3 stage 5 wheel. Would anyone know where I could get my current BEP housing cut for a t3 stage 5 wheel?

So my questions are:

1. whos running a new T-netics gt-K turbo? What is it and how does it do?

2. Or, who's running a borge-warner turbo? Do you know what turbines and comressors flow what volume per minute? compressor maps? etc.?

3. Or, where can I get my BEP housing machined for a T3 stage 5 wheel?

 

[drivemusicnow]

So do you know what caused the bearing failure? Not enough oil? Compressor surge?

Sorry I don't have any answers to your questions, but I'm just wondering why it died.

 

[dsm-onster]

I have good oil pressure based on the stock oil pressure gauge . But I've never blowna turbo. And i've really pushed the 18g and small 16g. . .

No compressor surge that I heard. And, I could clearly hear the modified 1g bov blowing off. . .

 

[TurboAnything]

I have a borg-warner S258 and im in love! Spool is so fast and topend flow is really good even with the bolton housing. Im reving to 8,000rpm and somtimes i cant tell and i hit the rev limiter cause it's still pullin. and im only at 17psi

 

[brandonzero0]

Project-Tsi has a turbonetics gt-k series turbo... talk to him hes a wiseman. or just search his name.

 

[dsm-onster]

Thanx for the replies.

I'm tempted to just get an SCM61. Garrett shaped bolt-on turbine housing. 56 trim comprssor wheel. Bigger t3 stage 5 wheel. both of which are good for 550+ hp. The wheel diameters are out of the 10% difference 'rule'. So I don't know. I'll have to research the SCM line. I don't want another blown turbo. The center section is turbonetics. Just like the turbo I've just blown.

I'm trying to find the vendor that was selling ballbearing center sections for turbonetics/garrett turbos. At one pont I saw a 60-1 and t3stage 3/5 and bb center section. This was for around $700 (?) and would bolt right in. . .

EDIT: I found them. They're Import Evolution. This I'm interested in too because this cartridge comes w/ a P-trim turbine. Much better for the 10% rule for matching wheels and I've been wanting a bigger turbine wheel. Machining out my BEP housing would not be expensive (I think).

 

[Turbo Monk3y]

The RS60T was one of the worst turbo's I've ever owned.. It blew 2 times and I got it replaced both times under warranty, Sold it to my friend (one of the brand new replacements) and it blew up on him 2 times, they honored the warranty under him, so he sold the 2nd brand new turbo to a guy, which the guy had it blow up on him in under 450 miles, which at this point AGP told the guy to kick rocks... They only reason why people got that turbo is because of the polished Comp housing and 60-1 wheel.. I went 12.0 @ 117 on it before it blew... This was just a bastard turbo that blew significant ass, and all who have one should use it as a Nice table ornament as thats all they are good for....

 

[Reese92tsi]

Nice airflow #s. How much boost were you running on the RS60

 

[dsm-onster]

Why do they break? I just want to be sure I'm not doing anything wrong here. I havn't checked my oil pressure w/ an accurate gauge. I DO have the oil feed coming from the oil filter housing (in fact I'm using the AGP install kit). I run full synthetic to prevent coking. . .

Does anyone know anyone running one of these Import evolution ball bearing CHRAs? I feel that BB should be more durable. But a crap product is a crap product and will break no matter what the technology. . . I'm especially interested in the BB 6076.

 

[dsm-onster]

Nice airflow #s. How much boost were you running on the RS60

31-32 psi. Im looking back at my logs and I guess a 2 looks like a 6 when you're angry at the world. . . I peaked out at 52 lbs/min at my revlimit (8500 rpms). I didn't plan on keeping her at this level. But I sure as he!! wanted the turbo to handle a little over 500 hp when asked to deliver. . . Keep in mind that my MAFT has not been calibrated. . .It could be off. Possibly reading higher than actual. That just makes this turbo an even worse investment.

EDIT: AH! the CHRA I'm referring to is the PTE 6076

I don't know if the bb center section is worth the hastle of having to send off the BEP housing to get it machined when for the same price I can get a complete SCM61.

 

[dsm-onster]

The turbo I should have gotten. I can even get it internally gated and the SP cover all for $900. A 680 hp compressor/cover.

And apparently I'm wrong. I did not realize that PTE uses garrett products in their SCM line. Aside from being assembled by PTE (?), basically this turbo is a garrett w/ a bolt on flange. I always thought PTE used t-netics parts.

 

[pneumo]

Thumbs up to PTE turbos. I've had two, a 50 trim/stage 3 with internal gate that I ran 11.6@125 on, and a GT35 with the SP cover that I ran 10.8 and 133mph so far. I think PTE understands the needs of a DSM. I haven't blown one yet.

 

[dsm-onster]

Your GT35. It has the 56 trim (gt35R/SC61 compressor), of course right? But what turbine does it have, the GT35? And what turbine housing? Ball bearing?

I'm interested in a turbo for sale that used to be a SCM61. But got rebuilt w/ a gt40 wheel (the left side of the compressor map is like the 56-trim but sweeps farther right). Also this ahs the new t350 gt35r turbine wheel. . . I can geta deal on it. It also has the standard 360 degree thrust bearing replaced w/ a screw down 360 degree thrust bearing.

I'd be leary of the higher flowing compressor except for the fact that the gt40 surge line is right on the same curve as the gt35R/56-trim. If I have any problems, I could pick up a SP compressor housing for the gt40, right?

BTW, does anyone know if my turbonetics t3/t4 oil supply and return lines will bolt onto the Garrett PTE (SCM61) turbos?

 

[TurboAnything]

the new SC61's are not working out well my buddie had one blow up on him two weeks ago with only 200 miles on it. And he is not to blame turbo was primed and all.

 

[dsm-onster]

Well, considering that your friend's experience is the ONLY failure that I've ever seen and I've looked at literally hundreds of accounts, I'm not sure that PTE is dropping the ball. I'm not questioning what happened to your friend. But I've seen other garrett turbos just fail for no reason, too. Seeing a trend is really good to know. Do you know or have heard of anyone else? This would definately steer me away. What is PTE doing differently than 1-2 years ago? I see that PTEs come standard w/ a spring held 360 degree thrust bearing. FP likes to use the screw down 360 degree thrust bearing. Is this the problem? What suddenly is different during manufacturing? Why are all the previous spring thrust bearing turbos doing fine?

Also, about my rs60T. Does anyone remember whether or not this turbo comes w/ the large diameter shaft? I'll just rebuild it myself. There is ZERO lateral play. All the play is radial. So I saved the thrust bearing by shutting it off as soon as I did. I can just get the whole assembly rebalanced. . . I'll still sell it. What was happening to the AGP turbos? Why were they going? I'm not smoking out the tail pipe at all.

 

[pneumo]

I'm almost sure my GT35 has the GT exhaust wheel, not the T350. It's been a while since I got it so I'm not 100% sure. The turbine housing is T3 5 bolt, .63AR, which has a larger nozzle than the bolt on PTE housing. The bearings are journal bearings. I went with the SP housing because the compressor map shows it might surge, plus there were a few reports of surging on street driven cars, and there was no extra charge for the SP housing when I ordered it.

If you're worried about random mystery turbo failure, make sure the oil supply line is clean, make sure the fittings are clean, and make sure the oil inlet on the turbo is sealed shut until you're ready to install the oil feed line. In fact, before you remove the oil feed line from the old turbo, clean it with brake parts cleaner so any dirt that might be on the ouside of the fitting doesn't fall into the line or fitting. Yeah, I'm serious about keeping the innards clean and working right.

 

[dsm-onster]

I've read through your thread on reaching for tens. Great stuff. Good read! one reason why I was interested in your turbo .

About the clean turbo thing. . . I think I may have forked my self. I've been running w/out a properly functioning pcv system for a while now. I have both valve cover vents lined to a vented catch can. There is no vacuum sucking out the crankcase smog and smut as it gets churned up in the crank case. My oil gets dark quick. Considering that these particles eventually fall back into the oil (thus the dark color), I think that this may have assisted in its failure. I've gotten a couple of good logs w/ this turbo last year, and she held together fine. I put only 2K on the oil. It's now dark. And, suddenly the turbo goes. . . I think I made a MORONIC mistake.

I surely am going to get this correct before installing ANYTHING else. Also, i'm going to look at my oil pressure as well as installing an inline oil filter for the turbo oil feed line.

 

[pneumo]

I've read through your thread on reaching for tens. Great stuff. Good read! one reason why I was interested in your turbo .

About the clean turbo thing. . . I think I may have forked my self. I've been running w/out a properly functioning pcv system for a while now. I have both valve cover vents lined to a vented catch can. There is no vacuum sucking out the crankcase smog and smut as it gets churned up in the crank case. My oil gets dark quick. Considering that these particles eventually fall back into the oil (thus the dark color), I think that this may have assisted in its failure. I've gotten a couple of good logs w/ this turbo last year, and she held together fine. I put only 2K on the oil. It's now dark. And, suddenly the turbo goes. . . I think I made a MORONIC mistake.

I surely am going to get this correct before installing ANYTHING else. Also, i'm going to look at my oil pressure as well as installing an inline oil filter for the turbo oil feed line.

You're welcome. I'm glad you found my thread helpful. I tried to show how all the details and info interrelate with each other.

About your dirty oil, when you change your oil put a jack under the passengers side and tilt the car a little. It should help drain out a little more dirty oil.

I think a vented catch can might make the oil dirtier if there is excess blowby. My car has the valvecover vent plumbed to a catchcan, then to the intake. Lower crankcase pressure helps the rings seal, so it reduces blowby a good ammount. For example, before I ran the hose back to the intake my dipstick would pop out every time I hit boost. Now the dipstick doesn't lift at all.

 

[blcknspo0ln]

I didn't read the thread at all, but 56 lb/min. HOLY SHIT

 

[fwdeclipse]

He actually misread it and it was 52lb/min.

 

[dsm-onster]

You're welcome. I'm glad you found my thread helpful. I tried to show how all the details and info interrelate with each other.

About your dirty oil, when you change your oil put a jack under the passengers side and tilt the car a little. It should help drain out a little more dirty oil.

I think a vented catch can might make the oil dirtier if there is excess blowby. My car has the valvecover vent plumbed to a catchcan, then to the intake. Lower crankcase pressure helps the rings seal, so it reduces blowby a good ammount. For example, before I ran the hose back to the intake my dipstick would pop out every time I hit boost. Now the dipstick doesn't lift at all.

Well, I don't think I have excessive blowby. I have not done a leak down test. But, the recent compression test read 154-56 accross the board.

Considering, the pcv valve let's the intake vacuum drap the vapors out of the crank case during normal driving, I assume that this is better than just letting th vapors make their own way out. My pcv was was all gummed up so I hjust drilled it out and decided to do asimple vent. When the pcv valve WAS working, my oil was tan light brown by 3000 miles.