420A Pulley alignment issue

[badgoose]

I have had some before but to this issue, I’m thinking something is up with my crankshaft pulley.

Car is a 99 Eclipse GS, with 420a. Belts are on the alternator and power steering and ac compressor. But won’t stay on the crank at all. Anyone know what the crank shaft end play and nut torque is supposed to be?

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[BLACK'98DSM]

The torque spec for the crankshaft damper bolt is 45 ft lbs. That may seem low, but it is the manufacturer's specification and I've followed it multiple times - with a dot of Loctite. Never had issue.

For the crankshaft end play:
Standard value: 0.09-0.24 mm (.0035-.0094 in.)
Limit: 0.37 mm (.015 in.)

You won't be able to properly measure with everything fully assembled. Here's a snip from my rebuild manual on how to check/service:

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I would inspect each pulley while the engine is running and look for abnormalities. The crankshaft dampers can come apart as they deteriorate. It will obviously appear out of round while rotating. Another issue I've seen is damaged bearings in the power steering pump allowing excessive shaft play. You can check this by pulling/pushing the pulley inward/outward of the pump - while engine is off of course. There is not a specified value for the end play on the power steering pump shaft, but it should be quite a small amount. If you can rattle it around, it's time for a new pump.

 

[badgoose]

The torque spec for the crankshaft damper bolt is 45 ft lbs. That may seem low, but it is the manufacturer's specification and I've followed it multiple times - with a dot of Loctite. Never had issue.

For the crankshaft end play:
Standard value: 0.09-0.24 mm (.0035-.0094 in.)
Limit: 0.37 mm (.015 in.)

You won't be able to properly measure with everything fully assembled. Here's a snip from my rebuild manual on how to check/service:

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

I would inspect each pulley while the engine is running and look for abnormalities. The crankshaft dampers can come apart as they deteriorate. It will obviously appear out of round while rotating. Another issue I've seen is damaged bearings in the power steering pump allowing excessive shaft play. You can check this by pulling/pushing the pulley inward/outward of the pump - while engine is off of course. There is not a specified value for the end play on the power steering pump shaft, but it should be quite a small amount. If you can rattle it around, it's time for a new pump.

The wild thing is there literally looks like zero wobble at all.

The belt for the PS pump and compressor is misaligned and skipping a rib and the other belt from the alternator to crank is also slipped a rib and every time I pop them back on they slip off it’s like the crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer is sitting a quarter of an inch to far out from the engine.

So ima check the torque on the pulley when I get out of work. I couldn’t really tell if there was play on it. Only other way I know to check it is drop the oil pan so I can shift the crank like we did in school to check the end play. I’m thinking maybe the crank pulley is starting to separate which is causing the belts to jump around. In one of the pics you can see the p.s. pump belt is rubbing the crank pulley. It’s like I need to knock the pulley back in and I’d be golden but I’m thinking it’s separating due to the rubber being old.

I’ll get a live video when I get off work.

 

[DirtMcGirt]

According to the 97-99 FSM, the crankshaft pulley through bolt should be torqued to 105 ft/lbs. I’ve had issues in the past similar to yours and it ended up being that the pulley wasn’t fully seated. I ended up purchasing the Miller tool to install the crank sprocket, and found that it can also be used for the pulley. It is expensive, but it helps to fool proof the install.

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[badgoose]

According to the 97-99 fsm, the crankshaft pulley through bolt should be torqued to 105 ft/lbs. I’ve had issues in the past similar to yours and it ended up being that the pulley wasn’t fully seated. I ended up purchasing the Miller tool to install the crank sprocket, and found that it can also be used for the pulley. It is expensive, but it helps to fool proof the install.

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Yea I was thinking about pulling it off to check its condition and if good try to reseat it. Ima check the torque on it before I pull it, thank you for the info

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

We have a difference in torque values. I'll have to look into this.

 

[badgoose]

We have a difference in torque values. I'll have to look into this.When I was doing previous research thru the forums and online, I was seeing 2 different torques as well. I’m wondering if there is differences in variations of the 420a that would denote that, for example for Hondas d series they have the d16y7, d16y8, d15z1 and so on. As the exterior all looks almost identical they have different aspects. I wonder if that could be the case with the 420a.

 

[badgoose]

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And yes I do have bottom end noise

 

[BLACK'98DSM]

Torque spec according to the rebuild manual- 45 ft.lbs:

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According to the 2G DSM torque specifications guide- 45 ft.lbs:

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According to the FSM- 45 ft.lbs:

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[DirtMcGirt]

I just checked my copy of the 97-99 fsm, and in the section after I pulled that pic from is the same info Black just posted above. Could you check your copy Black? 11C-19 is the page in question. It is troubling to see values that are that far apart. Initially I thought it might be a typo for the info I gave, however the Nm listed is also much higher than what is provided later in the manual.