ptesmc61r high 500hp?

[dsmerjosh]

I just bought this turbo. It says it is rated at 680hp. I was wondering if anyone is running this turbo. I am shooting for high 500 hp car. Will this turbo get me there? I have a 2.3 stroker with wiseco8:8:1 eagle rods. Twin walboro pumps, 1250bluemaxx inj. dsmlinkver.3, 3 inch turbo back exhaust, fuellab fuel pressure reg. kit, etc. will this turbo get me there or even low 600hp.

 

[deflator]

It has the potential for sure...as you have already stated. Your intake manifold and stock cams will be holding you back though. And it all will depend on your tuning ability

 

[dsm-onster]

scm61r? What turbine wheel is it. The t350? or the or ptrin? If it is an scm6152r it CAN do it. But it will be much more difficult than with a the bigger scm6176r. All be cause of the bolton housing. A swap to a t3 manifold and a .63 a/r garrett turbine housing will make that turbo sing.

BTW, that horsepower rating is for the compressor. Whether or not the turbine flows enough for you to reach the potential of the compressor is another story. Like the scm6031. It's rated at 590hp. And they're pulling your leg when they say that because 99% of out there can't get 590 hp out of the 31 wheel with the bolton housing on the turbo alone. Basically the limit is about around where the 50-trim compressor wheel peters out. So basically the 6031 is jsut a laggy bolton 50-trim WRT flow and performance. And as well the scm61 compressor needs a much larger turbine wheel than the 52 wheel in the bolton housing to do more than a scm6052.

 

[deflator]

scm61r? What turbine wheel is it. The t350? or the or ptrin? If it is an scm6152r it CAN do it. But it will be much more difficult than with a the bigger scm6176r. All be cause of the bolton housing. A swap to a t3 manifold and a .63 a/r garrett turbine housing will make that turbo sing.

BTW, that horsepower rating is for the compressor. Whether or not the turbine flows enough for you to reach the potential of the compressor is another story. Like the scm6031. It's rated at 590hp. And they're pulling your leg when they say that because 99% of out there can't get 590 hp out of the 31 wheel with the bolton housing on the turbo alone. Basically the limit is about around where the 50-trim compressor wheel peters out. So basically the 6031 is jsut a laggy bolton 50-trim WRT flow and performance. And as well the scm61 compressor needs a much larger turbine wheel than the 52 wheel in the bolton housing to do more than a scm6052.

Off-topic, but how do you keep all this straight? Do you have a turbine encyclopedia, or do you just have one in your skull? I'm definitely going to talk to you again before I choose a turbo for my stroker atx when it's done

Sorry OP. Listen to what this man says

 

[me612]

What dyno are you aiming for these numbers on? There's a world of a difference between 500 2WHP on a dyno jet, and 500 awhp on a dyno dynamics. Hitting mid 500's on E85 or some form of leaded race fuel on a dyno jet is fairly easily accomplished.

 

[jdevil]

I'm running a smc6152e on my car and I was hoping for 500 whp. Is this not posible on the mitsu flange? Can somebody with the exprience clear it out for me?

 

[asrdave]

i have a 5252e, and i was wondering the same thing it says the turbo was rated for like 6 and change but i am only looking for 350-400, it would be nice if someone with experience can clear this up, or point us in the right direction to find an answer -=)

 

[dsm-onster]

scm61r? What turbine wheel is it. The t350? or the or ptrim? If it is an scm6152r it CAN do it. But it will be much more difficult than with a the bigger scm6176r. All because of the bolton housing. A swap to a t3 manifold and a .63 a/r garrett turbine housing will make that turbo sing.
. . .

No one said it wasnt possible.

Here's a whole thread dedicated to sc61 results: click. Let's take a look at the difference in Tim Zimmers results swapping out the bolton housing for a t4 housing with the 6152: 630whp at 32psi. 6psi more boost but 130 more whp (500whp-630whp). It's safe to say that had he kept here at that 26psi, he would have netted a 60whp gain doing away with the bolton housing. Biglady112 posted 590whp results with the bolton 6176 at 32 psi and very high altitude.

Not that dyno numbers from different dynos are good for anything. But you see the trend in that thread: the bolton housing needs a bigger wheel or you need a better turbine housing to guarantee solid 550whp results with a PTE 61. Let alone the OP's goal.

 

[jdevil]

Let's say I have the smc6152e already. I'm looking to make 500 + awhp. From what I understand in this thread it would be easier to achieve if I changed the turbos exhaust housing to the garret. Right?

How much would I be spending
on doing this?

 

[me612]

By running a larger exhaust housing, you may lose a few RPM's in spool time, but it should help you make higher peak HP numbers.

Switching from a Mitsu exh housing, to a T3 housing, well there is no set price. There's various avenues you can take. You'll need a way to bolt up the new turbo. That entails either switching to a T3 flanged exh manifold, or utilizing some sort of adapter plate on your current manifold. You'll need to replace your mitsu flanged O2 housing, with something that will bolt to the new exh housing.

That may be easy to some, and difficult for others.

Again, what dyno are you going to be aiming to reach 500hp on. 500hp is a very vague description. 500hp on a 2wd Dyno Jet, could be more like 420hp on an AWD Dyno Dynamics / Mustang Dyno.

I made 541AWHP on our local Dyno Dynamics. If I went to a Dyno Jet, I "should" be over 600hp.

My recomendation is to not get too caught up in the numbers, because they aren't always comparible when you have different drivetrains, different dynos manufacturers, and different elevations, which are all variables that are going to affect what your print out ends up showing.

 

[jdevil]

I'm aiming for a high 10sec or even a mid 10. My engine and turbo set up is not complete yet, but I do have the smc6152e, evo3 many(ported and coated), o2 housing with w/g flange, oil lines and down pipe. My concern after reading this thread is accomplish a 10sec pass since there isn't a many cars who have done it on this turbo... I actually contacted pte and they sale the t3 housing for 230$ which is not too bad, but I'm still wondering if the t4 would be a better choice for my goal. The thing is I'm investing some good money into this car and don't want to be disappointed.

Who makes o2 housings for the t3/t4 set ups?

What would you guys suggest?

If I kept the mitsu housing will spraying be safe and help?

 

[me612]

If you push 30+psi out of the 61mm turbo (even with a mitsu housing), I think you should have enough power to be right on the verge of breaking into the 10's. Mid 10's may be a far stretch on a mitsu housing. Driver experience, vehicle weight, and traction will also be key factors as well.

FWIW, we had a local .63 AR SC61 run 11.0 at around 25psi on E85. A lot left in her, he just ran out of fuel pump so couldn't run any more boost. Pretty sure he was also on some all-season radials. The car also had a bit of weight reduction done. More boost, better tires, he would have been well into the 10's.

T3 o2 housing, I'm not sure of anyone who supplies that. I've seen different T3 manifolds, all place the turbo in slightly different locations, which could be enough of an issue to make a plug n play part boughten over the internet hard to get. Any decent shop (even a muffler shop) should be able to weld something up for you. Just buy a T3 flange from your favorite vendor, a mandrel bend, and a flange that matches your down pipe flange, an O2 bung, and bring it to the shop and tell them to make it work. Or just have them cut the flange off your downpipe and just have an O2 Eliminator style down pipe that goes all the way to the turbo outlet.

Remember though, you'll also need to find a way to bolt the turbo to a manifold. Whether that be a T3 flanged manifold, or just a simple adapter plate.

Something else I forgot to ask. If you do run the mitsu flanged turbo, you plan on running the internal gate, or an external? If you do run internal, you may run into issues with boost falling off up top, which may hurt you up top.

 

[dsm-onster]

^^^ right!. He'll never keep that flapper closed with a bolton housing and that goal.

... I actually contacted pte and they sale the t3 housing for 230$ which is not too bad, but I'm still wondering if the t4 would be a better choice for my goal.

The only thing a t4 set offers over a t3 setup is different housing a/r options. The flanges themselves really mean nothing about flow. Sure one has a larger inlet than another but inlet hole size isn't a factor with a t3 housing as has been proven. So You need to look for a particular A/R that has been proven with your particular turbine wheel to spool well and still flow up top enough to get into the potential of your compressor. In that case, I suggest the .63 a/r garrett turbine housing. You will reach your goal and have more left. An sc6152 with a real garrett .63 a/r housing is a very potent and proven turbo.

 

[jdevil]

I was able to find an 02 housing with the t3 flange but is kind of expensive (360$). It may cost less to have it made. I also looked at the dnp manys and I do like them better then my evo3. After doing all this research I'm looking at roughly 1200$ more to change my set up to a t3.

I may just keep my set up and try it out, after all I had my exhaust housing coated already and would hate to see that extra money go to waste...

1 more question:

I read on the reference thread that 26psi would be the most efficient boost to get out the smc6152 why?

I do appreciate your help guys, at least now I know if I can't accomplish my goal I can always go back and swap housings and be good to go...

Oh yeah...

I am running a external waste gate (44mm)