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PTE turbos on 2.4l???

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bsbllfit7

10+ Year Contributor
1,104
3
Feb 17, 2009
Salem, Oregon
Hey everyone so i am trying to get some information on what turbo setup to run. I have been contemplating internal gate vs external gate and what not. I would like to stay as internal gate if possible and i dont really have any goals that are too extravagant. I would like a turbo that could get me close to 400 on pump or so. I have been researching about pte's but there are a bunch of different models and i have been confused. Are we able to get these in an internal gate trim and if so what models would be optimal for me. I do have a 2.4l that is built so i wont be needing to go DBB because spool will already be lower thanks to the added displacement. Just trying to get some opinions on these turbos and how well they might mesh with the 2.4. Personal experience would be awesome but technical date is also very welcome. Thanks in advance tuners.
 
I do have a 2.4l that is built so i wont be needing to go DBB because spool will already be lower thanks to the added displacement.
If you're serious about a PTE turbo, you'll want to consider the Dual Ball Bearing turbos for their durability, not just the benefit of reduced lag.

This PTE customer who pushes his 6262 sums it up best:

6262s run great on 38-40lbs of boost!



For about 4 months or less.
 
if i went that route i would rather go with an fp green/red or something along those lines. Id rather stay under 1k if at all possible but if i cant then i cant

and also im not looking for 38-40psi. Im looking more for mid 20's or so on 92 pump gas
 
and also im not looking for 38-40psi. Im looking more for mid 20's or so on 92 pump gas
Doesn't matter....journal bearing PTE's melt down even at 20psi.

Have you considered any of the DSM bolt-on BW turbos sold by Bullseye Power, or even a Holset HX35/HX40 with a DSM bolt-on turbine housing? Any of these can be made internally-gated, although an external gate is highly recommended to prevent boost spikes / drops.
 
ya i have looked at hx series turbos but my main problem with them is the making of an oil drain line. I do not have access to a welder and dont know of any other way of creating a drain that will not blow the turbo
 
im running a PTE SC6176 been runnin it for about 4 or 5 months now on my 2.3L. it is internally gated and it works great. i wish i would have gone with the 6262 externally gated but this setup works for now. im runnin a solid 20lbs on 91 oct no problem. my next setup will be DBB with a custom twin scroll manifold and custom exhaust. the guys that built my car have the shop car spool'n that 6262 at about 3300 rpms where as mine spools at about 4500-4800. mid and high range power feels the same though. ive read alot of post from JUSMX141 and if he says somethin about turbos i believe him. i guess ive just been luckywith my PTE.
 
Reading this thread, I swear I'm having flash backs... I originally went with a FP Green on my 2.4L only to realize that the Mitsu turbine housing was waaaaaay too small and hindered my 2.4L's output (See my Mustang dyno chart for my disappointing 272HP run).

I also wanted to stay with an internally gated setup due to CA's Cops/Smog Nazis... Enter what PTE was calling a '6235R' (basically a 35R DBB with a 62mm machined aluminum compressor & an SP4 compressor housing with anti-surge ports). Add to that a .63 AR turbine housing that allows the 2.4L to breathe a little easier and a custom-mounted internal WGA... and it's good to go.

I wouldn't worry about welding up an oil drain... Just get an oil drain line kit to go along with your turbo and just make sure it doesn't have any kinks in the line and use some sort of thermal insulation sleeve (DEI) for the line itself as it does run close to the downpipe... I did this as well as wrapped my 3" downpipe and I haven't had any issues with it for almost 1 year now.

Hope this helps

BTW, what pistons did you end up going with on your 2.4L? I opted for a set of CP's with 8.5:1 CR on a stock rod length'd Manley I-Beam rods for my build... So far, so good :thumb:
 
thats even a little high for spool haha, im looking for something that spools below 4 on the 2.4l I heard its easier to get away with lower spool on the 2.4l Also i have 9.0:1 compression

i got the manley h beam rods and wiseco pistons 9.0:1. With the hx series turbos i was under the impression that there is not a sufficient line that exists and one has to be made from -12an fittings which need to be welded to the oil pan
 
thats even a little high for spool haha, im looking for something that spools below 4 on the 2.4l I heard its easier to get away with lower spool on the 2.4l Also i have 9.0:1 compression

i got the manley h beam rods and wiseco pistons 9.0:1. With the hx series turbos i was under the impression that there is not a sufficient line that exists and one has to be made from -12an fittings which need to be welded to the oil pan

Nah, the drain line kit comes with an AN-12 bolt-on adapter to a 45* barbed fitting. I used 2 Moroso oil pan studs in the oil pan & an OEM oil drain tube gasket & still no leaks :thumb: Let me see if I have any pics....
 
ya i have looked at hx series turbos but my main problem with them is the making of an oil drain line. I do not have access to a welder and dont know of any other way of creating a drain that will not blow the turbo
Don't let that hinder your decision....both the HX35 and HX40 current timeslip leaders are using -10AN oil drains on their turbos, but they're also using restrictors in their oil supply lines to bring the oriface down to around a -3AN spec.

A few key things to remember:
  • Less oil entering the turbo will obviously not require as large of a drain spec as Holset is recommending. The large oil drain spec is only for those wanting to run full-flow (unrestricted) -4AN or larger oil supply lines.

  • The HX35's used on Dodge trucks are fed with a -6AN feed and have an enormous drain....this is because the oil feed source on those trucks has the pressure 100% within spec. If you were to run a -6AN feed to a Holset on a DSM using a -10AN drain, there would be oil running out of both sides of the turbo as soon as you started the car.

  • You want as much oil volume entering the turbo as possible that will drain properly through whatever size drain you're using. This means that you're better off finding a lower-pressure oil source that gives the turbo more volume than you are a high pressure source and restricting the size down a great amount in order to achieve the correct pressure at the inlet.

  • Every aftermarket turbo has it's own oiling requirements- be sure to understand and abide by these requirements if you're planning on making the turbo last a long time.
 
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do they make more well known -10an drain setups? I have no problem running a restrictor in line with the oil feed. Thats what i would prefer to do is get that setup even if it does cost more. I dont have access to a welder so welding a fitting on would be the last line of defense for me
 
for those of you who want to do stuff to a 2.4L i highly recommend checking this site out for parts and everything... turbo manifolds and stuff for block and turbo kits.. they are detailed and i say check them out. Racing Performance Works

im also building up a NA 4g64
 
ive currently got an evo3 16g on the car. I might just stick with that but ive heard that it will run out of air in the higher rpms. I wont be going higher than stock rev limiter so idk how big an issue this will be for me. My guess is the evo3 is gonna be super torquey on this 2.4l engine. Anyone with experience in the matter?
 
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