Proper head setup and short block advice

[dwdsm]

I want to finish my project but obviously there is a problem... A year ago after I finished my suspension and all the brake lines, bearings, and ball joints I went motor hunting. I saw an ad for a 6-bolt with pauter rods, weisco pistons, clevite bearings, apr head studs, and a stock rebuilt head with 3G lifters.. All for 1,400 and the guy threw in a fidanza flywheel and a act clutch... I went and looked at it (5 hour drive) and it kinda looked like it was sitting a long time under a shelter by his garage. I should of turned around there and left but I bought it... It was already in his 2G that got cranked in the rear end for 5,000 miles. When I got home and tore it apart the cyclinders had water sitting in them. Now what....The head also had rust around the intake valves.. So here's where I stand yet another year later with some cash saved and I need to finish it. I need options within my budget... Where to go and who to talk to... I am going to call JAM tonite to see if they would just do a hone and valve job on it but some options I've thought of.
I have $7,000

Must have:
FP3052- $2,000 after everything
Shep tranny, $1,800
$2,000 in misc parts,(stainless valves, (for 20+psi) injectors, fuel line, sensors, etc.)

Already Have:
AFPR
exhaust
intercooler
dsmlink
etc.

Options:
1:Hone and re-ring bottom end myself... (taking chance of oil blow by) and get local shop to do a valve job.(cheaper but how trust worthy?)

2:Have Jam do what ever they need and charge the difference on a credit card.(wife wouldn't like this one!)

3:Have local shop do it all. (kind of a happy medium)

Slowboy is out of the question even though they are close... because they won't assemble used parts... I'm not about to ditch the pauter rods....

thanks, I hope a hone will get this out! (the specs are just carbon buildup I knocked off the pistons)

 

[flyinghighlm]

IMO..take it to a shop have it decked...acid dipped and a PRESSURE CHECK...that will help you on the head and tell you if its still good..

Options:
1:Hone and re-ring bottom end myself... (taking chance of oil blow by) and get local shop to do a valve job.(cheaper but how trust worthy?)

How good is your local shop, do you have any around you would trust..at least if the build it and there is an issue you have a warranty to cover your ass and your money well spent

 

[dwdsm]

IMO..take it to a shop have it decked...acid dipped and a PRESSURE CHECK...that will help you on the head and tell you if its still good..

Options:
1:Hone and re-ring bottom end myself... (taking chance of oil blow by) and get local shop to do a valve job.(cheaper but how trust worthy?)

How good is your local shop, do you have any around you would trust..at least if the build it and there is an issue you have a warranty to cover your ass and your money well spent

The local shop did my boy Mario's car and it dynoed 350 on a Mustang and he's had no problems.. One's 60+ and the other is in his 50's. So they aren't up to date with the new kinda stuff... Well I guess a head is a head...

I also don't know if they acid dip...

 

[SBR Chris]

Sir,

We will actually assemble your used parts if you'd like. We can bring the block into our machine shop, and do all of the necessary work on it. It might even hurt your wallet less then your local machine shop!

Chris Boone
Slowboy Racing Inc.
[email protected]

 

[njc1064]

I believe that machine shop your speaking of is SMO over in washington. Well, ive heard good and bad things, but my first experience was a NIGHTMARE with them...They put together my bottom end and apparently forgot to tighten one of the rod bolts...Needless to say, the engine threw a rod 112 miles into the break in....They did not warranty it, i paid for a new bottom end... Your call...Mario seems to do good business with them and i guess you can say accidents happen, but seriously, you forgot to tighten a rod bolt?

 

[TSIMonsteR]

I'd go SBR for the work. I would trust a DSM specialty shop, over the local domestic loving Mom&Pop.

 

[TSIfreek]

The cylinder wall you have pictured looks good to me and would sure hone out but do as little as possible since the piston to wall clearance will change.
I would have a reputable shop hone it with a torque plate, clean it and you re assemble it with all new bearings rings might be something to replace as well to get a nice seal with a fresh machined bore. If you dont feel confortable putting it together have someone else do it but it not that hard. You should be able to finish it with the 7k you have available but spend it wisely things pop up.

 

[dwdsm]

I believe that machine shop your speaking of is SMO over in washington. Well, ive heard good and bad things, but my first experience was a NIGHTMARE with them...They put together my bottom end and apparently forgot to tighten one of the rod bolts...Needless to say, the engine threw a rod 112 miles into the break in....They did not warranty it, i paid for a new bottom end... Your call...Mario seems to do good business with them and i guess you can say accidents happen, but seriously, you forgot to tighten a rod bolt?

Yes, your right SMO and oooo sorry to hear that...I actually had someone else tell me the same story with a small block 350...


I've been talking to Slowboy and It sounds like it will work out....UMPH I don't know. Mabe whoever I talked to before missunderstood me... I truly have had nothing but good experiences with them....so it makes sense.

I'd go SBR for the work. I would trust a DSM specialty shop, over the local domestic loving Mom&Pop.

Yes....Always, but most will not assemble old parts....Most sell plenty of their packages so why bother with the few that the packages don't fit... Props to SBR for stepping it up for the cause! (and the locals!)