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Project GST

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itbeatown

Proven Member
53
0
Apr 22, 2013
Boekel, NL, Europe
Just got my 99 GST and started ordering my parts to get to my hp goal of 350-375.

Here's the plan:

HKS turbo back exhaust
aftermarket turbo manifold
injen intake
1g BOV
Big 16g turbo
FMIC
Fuel Pump with rewire kit
AFPR
650cc Injectors
MBC
Wideband 02 and Boost gauges
ECUflash/EVOscan
Openport 2.0
CeddyMods
Clutch Kit
Tokico Suspension
(I know the last two dont help with hp goal but they are there)

So far this is what I have on the way.
Anything else I am missing?
Am I on the right track?

Any other 16g turbos want to comment on the build?
 
Just go with a bigger turbo and some cams. You can throw that injen intake in the garbage and just order a real BEP intake 3" or a 4" fp. Others make them from home depot materials, you can always go that route and save a hundred bucks or more.
 
Just know you're about to spend some money. Holsets are cheap, but everything you have to get to run them is what gets you. I'm still getting mine together

Thats kind of true if you are going with a t3 hotside. Then the biggest cost could be custom exhaust fabbing(vband down pipe).
But if you want you can pick up a used bep bolt on, feed and drain the oil and thats it. Its actually a cheap option as far as turbos go.
 
Not if your doing the bolt on setup buddy.

Yes, it gets expensive if you wanna go t3 or twin scroll.. Otherwise the bolt on setup is quite easy and cost effective.

If your upgrading from stock, no matter what turbo of that size is going to require supporting mods. Thats obvious.

As far as holset goes, it's not expensive to get running.
 
I have a ported Mitsubishi EVO III Big 16G setup on my 1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse GSX with 288 awhp and 271 ft-lb at 18.1 PSI on a Mustang Dyno.

Power Modifications:
PURE Tuned
3" GM MAF
DSM MAF Translator
HKS 264 Cams
680cc Injectors
Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
Updated Lash Adjusters
PURE custom Intercooler Kit
HKS SSQV Blow Off Valve
PURE 3" Intake Pipe
AEM Dry Flow Air Filter
PURE ported Mitsubishi EVO III BIG 16G Turbo
DNP Turbo Manifold (currently replacing it with the Forced Performance Turbo Manifold)
Custom O2 Housing
Custom Apexi' 3" Downpipe
Thermal Research & Development 3" Exhaust with no catalytic converter
GReddy PRofec B-Spec II Boost Controller
Auto Meter Cobalt Boost Gauge
Auto Meter Cobalt Fuel Pressure Gauge

Chassis Modifications:
(Track) Flat Black Enkei RPF1 17X8 +35, Hankook Ventus R-S3 225/45/17 Tires
(Street) Gunmetal with Mirror Face TSW Nurburgring RF 18x8 +35, Falken RT-615 225/40/18 Tires
KW Variant 3 Coilovers
Updated Motor Mounts
Updated Control Arms
Duralast Gold C-Max Brake Pads
Rear Seat Delete
Weight Reduction
Stock Modified Front Bumper
Vortex Generator
Formula One High Performance Auto Tint 30%
Updated Stock Head Lights
Sonar Red LED Tail Lights
Custom Clear Bumper Lights
 
What $100 for a custom oil line, $50 for a feed? Doesnt sound too bad to me.

Not if your doing the bolt on setup buddy.

Yes, it gets expensive if you wanna go t3 or twin scroll.. Otherwise the bolt on setup is quite easy and cost effective.

If your upgrading from stock, no matter what turbo of that size is going to require supporting mods. Thats obvious.

As far as holset goes, it's not expensive to get running.

:confused: Do you seriously believe a bolt-on setup costs $150?

It cost me around $2,000 to switch from a 16g setup to a bolt-on Holset, not including the cost of the turbo. The bolt-on housing is $300 alone. Then there's cost of the wastegate setup, which is another $600 if you want to skip the BS and go straight to a Punishment gated O2 housing. Not to mention you'll need twice the fuel, head mods, larger intake and exhaust, and a strong enough engine/transmission to handle it all.

OP- My honest advice: Your biting off more than you can chew. You haven't made a drop of power with anything more than the stock turbo, and your planning to jump straight to 500-700hp turbo. Stash the Holset in a corner and stick with the 16g.
 
Yeah my holset setup was on the expensive side, but I went T/S. I would say def. not something you should be undertaking if this is your first time doing osmething like this. If your dead set on it, take your time, read everything you can read on it and make sure that the car is ready for it and that you are ready for little things to go wrong here and there.
 
:confused: Do you seriously believe a bolt-on setup costs $150?

It cost me around $2,000 to switch from a 16g setup to a bolt-on Holset, not including the cost of the turbo. The bolt-on housing is $300 alone. Then there's cost of the wastegate setup, which is another $600 if you want to skip the BS and go straight to a Punishment gated O2 housing. Not to mention you'll need twice the fuel, head mods, larger intake and exhaust, and a strong enough engine/transmission to handle it all.

OP- My honest advice: Your biting off more than you can chew. You haven't made a drop of power with anything more than the stock turbo, and your planning to jump straight to 500-700hp turbo. Stash the Holset in a corner and stick with the 16g.

I didn't say the bolt on housing was 150. I said the oil lines were 150. I also said that the bolt on way was the most cost effective way to run a holset.

Bep.55 bolt on-280 new
Oil lines- 150
Holset turbo- your choice on $ ebay used or cummins new. (I decided on new so mine will obviously be more spendy)

It's much cheaper then going a different turbo of that size. I dunno why everyone bitches about holset being too expensive or too hard to custom fab for, it's really not at all. You can get genuine cores for 250.

I guess i was already switching from a bolt on scm6152 and had a wasteate already. (Which was $200 38mm not $600 for a 44mm) You can run it internally gated though. my cost was only, turbo, bep housing and oil lines. Had everything else from the other turbo. Nothing is cheap if your going from bone stock........

Btw wes, I'm still running a stock intake manifold stock head with cams only, 1g TB, and i was on pte1000s on a wally255 not rewired with the old turbo.
The 2g dsm hx40 record was placed at the same time/run by will stanton when he ran his stock 7 bolt record. Yes he had a built trand and head, )but I'm proving you dont need EVERYTHING your listing to make it sound so expensive. i do recommend a built trans cause i blew one already however LOL


Were talking about the turbo and installation alone here right??..... Supporting mods are a given thing to need when you want big power, holset or not.
 
Good choice with the mhi 20g. I just let mine go for a holset H1E 58mm 8 blade basically hx40. When I had mine I ran it at 22 psi and was logging 46.8lbs/min airflow on link. Everything was calibrated correctly but for some reason I still don't think it's 100% accurate but still goes to show that these turbos are really nice. I'm hoping my holset set up wont cost that much LOL. So far I did strait trade for 20g for the holset. I already have a hafe manifold, 38mm wastegate, -10an oil drain and -4 an feed lines from my 20g set so I think I'm only going to need a bep housing, oh and I got a PR o2 housing that was vband wastegated but I cut it and welded it to run off the manifold.

Anyhow, good luck with the build my friend.

Anthony B.
 
Good choice with the mhi 20g. I just let mine go for a holset H1E 58mm 8 blade basically hx40. When I had mine I ran it at 22 psi and was logging 46.8lbs/min airflow on link. Everything was calibrated correctly but for some reason I still don't think it's 100% accurate but still goes to show that these turbos are really nice. I'm hoping my holset set up wont cost that much LOL. So far I did strait trade for 20g for the holset. I already have a hafe manifold, 38mm wastegate, -10an oil drain and -4 an feed lines from my 20g set so I think I'm only going to need a bep housing, oh and I got a PR o2 housing that was vband wastegated but I cut it and welded it to run off the manifold.

Anyhow, good luck with the build my friend.

Anthony B.

Use a -12 AN drain
 
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