murcielago
10+ Year Contributor
- 169
- 1
- Sep 12, 2010
-
Central Jersey,
New Jersey
Hello Tuners,
In About 3-5 days I will be replacing my Stock clutch and flywheel on my 1998 Eclipse GST, for the ACT 2100: MB1-HDSS, with a Streetlite XACT Flywheel.. Also replacing the Fork, Pivot Ball, Throw-Out Bearing Clip, new Flywheel Bolts, Slave Cylinder & Master to Slave Clutchline.. All the parts from Brian Gleason at STM Tuned.(Great Customer Service)
I decided to go with this setup because I'm not planning on going crazy with my car, and i want a nice ride as my daily driver during the summer.
The Reason for this is because at the DSM/EVO Vs. Subaru shootout I destroyed
my clutch (hopefully just that)..With clutch slipping and bad lunch(2.56) I ran a 14.9 at 99mph... After that on my 3rd run I couldnt go into gears, so I shut the car off put it in 1st, turned it back on and drove slowly to the lot. on my way home after 2 hours to see if cooling was the issue, which it wasn't I drove home in 2nd gear all the way, about a 20-25min drive(usually takes 15 minutes) regular driving home from track.. So here are my symptoms, with keys on the off position I can go through all the gears with clutch pressed or depressed. With car engine running/Idling I cannot go into any gears with clutch pressed all the way to the floor, if I try to go into 1st or 2nd, the car starts to move forward(even with clutch pressed down), if i try to put it in reverse* it starts grinding.. I was told that its nothing to do with my transmission gears or lube (Thank God).
. But maybe I destroyed my clutch disc and it burnt very bad. Before buying anything I bled the system very well, many times. I started with 1 man bleeder, and then with my buddy, bled the slave itself also.. And same problem exists. So I decided to order the setup.. What do you guys think?
Why did I create this thread? Because its my first time replacing a clutch, I've read and read the alldata* instructions and seen some videos tuners have provided on other threads and I have asked some of my other friends who have same car but awd, and everything looks and sounds simple.
Now if anyone can provided me some hints and what not to do in some cases, and what i should look for since I have the transmission out of the vehicle..
Also if anyone can let me know how hard it is to replace the clutch lien that goes from Master to Slave Cylinder?
Here is my setup on engine and other bolts-ons: Big T28: 17-20psi(adjustable actuator), FP Exhaust Manifold, ETS FMIC(7" street), 1G BOV, Megan Racing Downpipe, 3" Catback-No Catalytic thou*..Full Upgraded suspension-no Camber adjustment(yet)..A/F AEM WIDEBAND: measuring between :14.5-15.2 at idling warmed up, and at WOT on 3rd/4th gear pull measuring 11.2-3..
I Thank everyone in advance for any helpful inputs..
In About 3-5 days I will be replacing my Stock clutch and flywheel on my 1998 Eclipse GST, for the ACT 2100: MB1-HDSS, with a Streetlite XACT Flywheel.. Also replacing the Fork, Pivot Ball, Throw-Out Bearing Clip, new Flywheel Bolts, Slave Cylinder & Master to Slave Clutchline.. All the parts from Brian Gleason at STM Tuned.(Great Customer Service)
I decided to go with this setup because I'm not planning on going crazy with my car, and i want a nice ride as my daily driver during the summer.
The Reason for this is because at the DSM/EVO Vs. Subaru shootout I destroyed
my clutch (hopefully just that)..With clutch slipping and bad lunch(2.56) I ran a 14.9 at 99mph... After that on my 3rd run I couldnt go into gears, so I shut the car off put it in 1st, turned it back on and drove slowly to the lot. on my way home after 2 hours to see if cooling was the issue, which it wasn't I drove home in 2nd gear all the way, about a 20-25min drive(usually takes 15 minutes) regular driving home from track.. So here are my symptoms, with keys on the off position I can go through all the gears with clutch pressed or depressed. With car engine running/Idling I cannot go into any gears with clutch pressed all the way to the floor, if I try to go into 1st or 2nd, the car starts to move forward(even with clutch pressed down), if i try to put it in reverse* it starts grinding.. I was told that its nothing to do with my transmission gears or lube (Thank God).. But maybe I destroyed my clutch disc and it burnt very bad. Before buying anything I bled the system very well, many times. I started with 1 man bleeder, and then with my buddy, bled the slave itself also.. And same problem exists. So I decided to order the setup.. What do you guys think? Why did I create this thread? Because its my first time replacing a clutch, I've read and read the alldata* instructions and seen some videos tuners have provided on other threads and I have asked some of my other friends who have same car but awd, and everything looks and sounds simple.
Now if anyone can provided me some hints and what not to do in some cases, and what i should look for since I have the transmission out of the vehicle..
Also if anyone can let me know how hard it is to replace the clutch lien that goes from Master to Slave Cylinder?
Here is my setup on engine and other bolts-ons: Big T28: 17-20psi(adjustable actuator), FP Exhaust Manifold, ETS FMIC(7" street), 1G BOV, Megan Racing Downpipe, 3" Catback-No Catalytic thou*..Full Upgraded suspension-no Camber adjustment(yet)..A/F AEM WIDEBAND: measuring between :14.5-15.2 at idling warmed up, and at WOT on 3rd/4th gear pull measuring 11.2-3..
I Thank everyone in advance for any helpful inputs..
