The Top DSM Community on the Web

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. Log in to remove most ads.

Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

Please Support Morrison Fabrication

This site may earn a commission from merchant
affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

UPDATE # 2:

The final install of this update will be installation of the turbo components and fabrication of the oil feed, oil drain and vacuum/ boost pressure lines. I can’t wait to see how this turbo performs in the .55 BEP housing. The turbo consists of a 76-mm turbine housing, the O2 housing is an XS power unit that I upgraded with Tial components. The waste gate spring is a 20-psi unit that is connect to a turbosmart dual mbc.
IMG_0600.JPG
IMG_0601.JPG
IMG_0602.JPG
IMG_0599.JPG
IMG_0606.JPG
IMG_0608.JPG
IMG_0609.JPG
IMG_0610.JPG
IMG_0618.JPG
IMG_0619.JPG
IMG_0620.JPG
IMG_0621.JPG


Next installment will consist of all the wiring such as both wiring harnesses, fuse and relay boxes, etc. See you then.
 

Attachments

I’m back with another update, this one is going to be lengthy. I am expecting my 2nd child in the next few weeks so I know work on the build will halt. I have been working on the car religiously so here we go. As I promised I will be finishing up the wiring in this installment. I decided to mount my fuse boxes, relays etc. in the same location, I picked under the dash where the HVAC was previously located. First was to make a card board template for the relays and terminal blocks. Next, I transferred this to an ABS plastic sheet and mounted the components. After that I made 2 gauge quick disconnect cables for my alternator and starter.

IMG_0596.JPG
IMG_0614.JPG
IMG_0617.JPG
IMG_0587.JPG
IMG_0588.JPG
IMG_0625.JPG


You can also see how I routed the main fuse box wiring harness. I routed the harness through the dash instead of under it where I previously had it. Although it will be more work to remove it, I find doing it this way makes it cleaner. I started at the headlights and worked my way backwards, I loomed and mounted the harness so the fenders would conceal everything. I used the factory access hole on driver’s side to route the wires inside the car. I had to drill an access hole on the passenger side, but it all worked out.

IMG_0671.JPG
IMG_0672.JPG
IMG_0573.JPG
IMG_0577.JPG
IMG_0575.JPG
IMG_0579.JPG
IMG_0580.JPG
IMG_0611.JPG
IMG_0613.JPG
IMG_0669.JPG
 
Part 2:

So, after the main harness was installed, it was time to work on the accessory wiring. This included wiring for the AEM gauges, Innovate LC-1 wideband, and the methanol injection. I used a terminal block to make all the connections. I mounted this under the shifter cables. I also installed the LC-1 calibration button and led in the unused coin box. I was always intrigued by the dsm auto power/economy switch so I decided to put it to work. This switch will have 3 functions, activate hi-boost setting on the boost controller, activate the water/methanol injection and initiate a secondary ecmlink map.
IMG_0674.JPG
IMG_0696.JPG
IMG_0699.JPG
Next on the to-do list was finish addressing the engine wire harness. What I found disheartening was I found broken insulation at every connector. I just bit the bullet and purchased the dsm 1990 1g connector kit from Sheridan. I will say money well spent. I finished the harness with new connectors and fire retardant expandable loom. I relocated the power transistor, injector resistor pack and noise filter to the cabin and installed ecmlink and mounted the ecu.
IMG_0623.JPG
IMG_0622.JPG
IMG_0681.JPG
IMG_0687.JPG
IMG_0660.JPG
IMG_0673.JPG

Once the interior wiring was done, it was time to pull the dash out of storage and install it. I bought new hardware and installation was a breeze. Everything fit like a glove. Next on the list was installing the gauge cluster, and fabbing up the AEM gauges in the console. I also mounted up the two leds for the methanol injection. I also did the final install of the main fuse and methanol progressive controller in the glove box. I then mounted my HKS turbo timer and cooling fan over-ride switch in the lower dash panel. Last on the list was to install the NRG quick disconnect steering wheel hub. I will say I was skeptical of these but this unit is beefy.
IMG_0680.JPG

IMG_0679.JPG
IMG_0677.JPG

IMG_0692.JPG
IMG_0697.JPG

IMG_0689.JPG
IMG_0688.JPG
IMG_0693.JPG
IMG_0691.JPG
IMG_0700.JPG
 
Part 3: I moved my attention back to the battery box to finalize the battery relocation. I mounted the circuit breakers on the box to make removal a little easier. Don't mind the Optima battery, it was used for mock-up purposes.
IMG_0597.JPG
IMG_0598.JPG

So I had to take a break from the wiring, I think I fried a few brain cells dealing with it all. I switched back to installing the rest of the drivetrain. I installed the transfer case and applied all the drivetrain fluids. I also decided to replace the 20+ year wheel studs with ARP extended units.
IMG_0629.JPG
IMG_0631.JPG
IMG_0639.JPG
IMG_0627.JPG
IMG_0628.JPG
Next I turned my attention to my shifter assembly. Everyone that owns a 1990 DSM knows that it has quirkiness other DSM's don't have. One being you cant really buy a short shifter for it. I know of one place that sells one but the price tag was a little steep. So I did a little digging and found an article on the Galant VR-4 forums. This consists of a first gen 3000gt vr-4 shifter that has 1 inch cut off the shifter arm. A few other mods need to happen to make this work but I think it turned out great. I also replaced all the bushings with oem units.
IMG_0652.JPG
IMG_0654.JPG

So if you don't know by now, mostly every part of this build will be done solely by me. Other than some welding and all the powder coating, I have achieved my goal. The next stage of this build will be body work and paint and I have talked myself into doing this part also. In the meantime I decided to practice my painting techniques on my 18x9 Rota Boost wheels. The color I chose was Arizona Bronze Metallic from TCP Global.
IMG_0648.JPG
IMG_0649.JPG
IMG_0645.JPG
IMG_0651.JPG
 
Part 4:
In continuance, I jumped back to the engine bay. I installed the upper inter cooler pipe, Greddy type-r bov, 4 inch intake and my valve cover. Of course Detective Coating did the powder coating and everything turned out flawless. I also connected the engine harness and I’m pleased with how it turned out.
AA52E0EC-57F9-408D-B3BD-B140A15A0D94.jpeg
BE105A97-AD27-4AAB-87B8-1B10EE3D886D.jpeg
F9072386-3839-4200-8E87-CE95E100A2E9.jpeg
262BCEBD-F63C-448A-80CC-07AD5684B54A.jpeg
87A9D501-2D10-4F07-948E-803F21906AE4.jpeg
CAE6CA78-2E5F-4766-9CEB-84AEE9C76CBF.jpeg
DB9D969E-5C15-4830-99F3-8C39ECDB0009.jpeg

This is it for now, I have a few electrical bugs to work out before the first start can happen. It’s getting close
 
Good evening fellow tuners, first I want to apologize for the lack of updates, work and new kid has limited any free time I have. I have been working on the car here and there, but really could post any updates. The biggest thing I did was paint the car. Now on to some pics. First thing I did was fill the rear windshield wiper hole. I shaped a piece of abs plastic a little smaller than the rear wiper and attached it with some plastic weld. Next I used 4 layers of fiberglass mat followed by reinforced fiberglass filler.
IMG_0712.JPG
IMG_2674.JPG

IMG_0716.JPG


Next task was addressing all the dents and dings from 20+ years of abuse. This was my first time ever doing body work, so I made some mistakes along the way. The doors wasn't that bad, but the right rear quarter panel was a nightmare. I first used a stud welder to help pull the panel out to its original shape or as close as possible. Next I ground down the studs and applied fiberglass mat since I burned through a couple of spots. Applied fiberglass filler and then sanded it down to follow the contour of the car. This was then followed by some Rage Gold filler and sanded smooth.

IMG_0717.JPG
IMG_0721.JPG
IMG_0722.JPG
IMG_0735.JPG
IMG_0736.JPG
IMG_0737.JPG
IMG_0738.JPG
IMG_0739.JPG


Once the body repair was complete, I pushed her outside to sand and wash her down. I know I did this at least 10 times. Since I was using a single stage urethane paint, I used 320 grit sanding pads. Next I thoroughly washed her using Ajax dish detergent. Check out my craftsman tow rig LOL.
IMG_0741.JPG
IMG_0742.JPG
IMG_0743.JPG
IMG_0747.JPG



Next I let her dry outside since I did this in 90 degree weather, then brought her in to start prepping the doors and door jams for primer and paint.
IMG_0723.JPG
IMG_0724.JPG
IMG_0725.JPG
IMG_0726.JPG
IMG_0727.JPG
IMG_0731.JPG
IMG_0732.JPG
IMG_0734.JPG
 

Attachments

So I had to address the rear bumper and license plate lights. Of course as I started to remove the rear bumper ,all hardware started to disintegrate, this was also the case for the license plate light bracket. So exploring my options, I decided to drill out the remaining old hardware and use M6 threaded inserts. I also built a small abs plate for the license plate lights.
IMG_0745.JPG
IMG_0746.JPG
IMG_2837.JPG


Next I started prepping the car for primer. The usually tape,clean, tack rag etc.

IMG_0748.JPG
IMG_0749.JPG


After I sanded the primer with 600 grit, I started prepping the roof and surrounding trim for the gloss black. I used a two stage base/ clear for this. This is when I realized I should have did a two stage base/clear for the entire car. Next I masked off the roof and trim and proceeded to lay down the white. I laid down 4 coats
IMG_0751.JPG
IMG_0755.JPG


IMG_0756.JPG
IMG_0757.JPG
IMG_0758.JPG
IMG_0759.JPG
 
IMG_2892.JPG
So here is what it looks like as of today, being my first timer I definitely made some mistakes. Paint choice is number one, single stage urethane is on the thin side, so I have runs everywhere, plus my air supply wasn't up to par. I'm going to do a little cut and buff to see if I can make it better. Overall, I think I did a decent job. Next is finish installing trim, side skirts etc., complete the interior, finalize some changes in the engine bay and complete the meth injection (I changed some things around).
IMG_2883.JPG
IMG_2884.JPG
IMG_E2889.JPG
IMG_2882.JPG
IMG_2886.JPG
IMG_2887.JPG
IMG_2893.JPG
IMG_E2888.JPG
IMG_2881 (1).JPG
 

Attachments

So since a big brake upgrade was done, I wanted to get more driver input and brake feel. I replaced the proportioning valve with a new oem unit and STM brake booster delete plate. This is paired with the 3g master cylinder so the pedal travel isn't that bad, of course this could change once I actually drive the car. I swapped my 1450cc injectors for some FIC High-z 1100cc units. I got these brand new for a very good price, I can still meet my HP goals with these. I also fabricated a better short direct throttle cable using a unit sourced from a 1g 1.8 eclipse. Also some of the pics are out of order because some thing were done before I painted the car.
IMG_0709.JPG
IMG_0710.JPG
IMG_2808.JPG
IMG_0760.JPG
IMG_2809.JPG
IMG_2787.JPG
IMG_2670.JPG
 
Hey is your car a pump gas car or e 85, nice brake delete man my buddy made one. Car is looking good I have yet to paint mine, just bay, and decided to put b quiet mat in my car to quite the cabin down. Do you have any more pics of the ptu wiring im doing a wire job too. just have to cut them I assuming and put the connector in the cabin under the radio like you.
 
Hey is your car a pump gas car or e 85, nice brake delete man my buddy made one. Car is looking good I have yet to paint mine, just bay, and decided to put b quiet mat in my car to quite the cabin down. Do you have any more pics of the ptu wiring im doing a wire job too. just have to cut them I assuming and put the connector in the cabin under the radio like you.
Yeah mine will be a 93 pump gas car, I can get more pics of the ptu wiring, I actually just converted mine to a 91-94 ptu because of the locking connector. Mine was broken and kept slipping off.
 
Car looks good man. If it were mine I would have painted the side mirrors and 3 piece wing black. The roof looks like the clear dried too quickly? What type of hardener did you use for the clear? A buff and polish will let that thing spark for sure.
 
Yeah
Car looks good man. If it were mine I would have painted the side mirrors and 3 piece wing black. The roof looks like the clear dried too quickly? What type of hardener did you use for the clear? A buff and polish will let that thing spark for sure.
Yeah I thought about doing a panda scheme, I think the clear-coat came out like that because I was painting when the humidity was too high. I also think my air supply was jacked up. I will definitely be doing a cut and buff. Honestly I see why paint shops charge so much.
 
Sorry for the prolonged update, 2020 has been a hell of a year. I thought it was time to update the build. So first thing, I moved the FP manifold and external gate to my spare engine. I replaced it with a JM Fabrications tubular manifold, tial Mvs wastegate with JM Fabrications external O2 housing. I have to say these are some well built parts and fit very well together.
90A91425-8FA6-4011-8706-04045B77225C.jpeg
40291E90-220E-454C-AB6F-9AE7B0ADE6C0.jpeg
40291E90-220E-454C-AB6F-9AE7B0ADE6C0.jpeg
Next on the list was to ditch the plastic coolant overflow. I purchased a stainless steel unit from amazon and made a bracket to attach it to the radiator.
0EEDF736-D6D3-481A-9AEE-DE91DFFB6E69.jpeg
8C7E86C4-5951-4784-945B-C6D604D0AFDD.jpeg
So to clean up the firewall a little I wanted to mount the AFPR directly to the fuel rail. I went with fuelab mini regulator and it turned out great. Next on my to-do list was tackle some oiling issues. I made an oil relocation using a distribution block for the oil senders. I also relocated the oil cooler to a more sufficient air source.
7639A9F3-F5A2-4696-A412-FC66CC5926A9.jpeg
CFAED9F7-B44A-4DEE-B5E5-5AEE97A2BF3A.jpeg
30C97F1D-6869-4CCE-8B12-C6C417B58DD0.jpeg
94F0E1AD-C56F-405E-9E70-1E2C4545C1E5.jpeg
403F9628-E1B5-48FD-85E7-63AC736A7AFD.jpeg
 
So this update took me out of my comfort zone a little bit. I love the look of a brake booster delete, only thing is I couldn’t find the proper master cylinder that would work well. I tried a 3g master cylinder and this made the pedal extremely hard. I was intrigued by the Chase Bays brake delete kit so I did some research. So to my surprise Honda’s have the same brake booster bolt pattern as our DSM’s. So I ordered a delete plate from MPC, wilwood master cylinder and bias valve with fittings from Chase Bays.
CB505410-3174-43BE-8B18-138591FC54FC.jpeg
B197875C-9D01-4939-B541-C6B039F418B0.jpeg
68334626-6C00-4CD9-84AA-B15CBE4053D3.jpeg
B22C18E3-1CCC-4E98-AE8C-9D3BC35AE72A.jpeg
0624D642-B8BD-4B10-917F-85EF30DA1B63.jpeg
B653D140-8124-43A7-98C0-0B60C109E19D.jpeg
957A5B17-94D7-4664-85BB-0C3E94C1E1B4.jpeg
And this is how everything looks now
76290E98-ACB0-48F4-9D00-2FC7AF63AA83.jpeg
 
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community
Boosted Fabrication ECM Tuning ExtremePSI Fuel Injector Clinic Innovation Products Jacks Transmissions JNZ Tuning Kiggly Racing Morrison Fabrications MyMitsubishiStore.com RixRacing RockAuto RTM Racing STM Tuned

Latest posts

Build Thread Updates

Vendor Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top