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Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

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I WANT MORE UPDATES!!! Everything looks amazing so far, I have to hand it to you that your dedication is tenacious. I was reading through the posts like I was binge watching a favorite show :thumb:. Please keep up the great work......... because I'm all out of your updates to read........
 
Update: Sorry guys/gals, it’s been really busy these last few weeks, but I did get some work done on Project NBA. I just haven’t had time to post my progress, this will probably be a lengthy post so please bear with me. Here is the rest of my gauges relocated to the HVAC panel.
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I have my boost, fuel pressure, voltmeter, and LC-1 wideband installed in the panel. I also put my water injection arm switch in place of the a/c switch and installed some leds for various functions. The red leds represent my security system and LC-1 calibration. Yellow Led is the meth injection arm function and the green led is the meth injection activation function.
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Next on my list was a stealth way to activate my dual stage boost controller. I found a n/t auto power/economy switch in my parts bin and decided to make it work. Economy will be first stage/ or wastegate psi and power will be the second stage Hopefully I got it right LOL
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Update: So I got everything in for my battery relocation, so it was time for me to tackle this part of the build. I will cover everything in the hatch area (fuel, stereo amplifier, etc.) since I did everything at one time. First I will start with the fuel, I decided to run dual 255 walbro fuel pumps, fuel lab filter, and -08 an SS fuel feed lines, -06 AN will be my fuel return line. I followed Boosted Beavers tutorial on how to build my dual fuel pump hangar and it turned out great.
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Since I’m going for the clean, shave bay look, I mounted my fuel lab filter on the sub frame, maybe I should have let the undercoating fully cure before I tried to install the filter.
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Next I mounted the fuel pump 60 amp and meth injection 40 amp relays on the d/s hatch area, and located the circuit breakers for the starter and auxiliary fuse box on the p/s side. I also had some extra fat mat so I decided to line my battery box with it.
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I also decided to convert all my bulbs to leds, and since I removed my tailgate lock awhile ago, this was the perfect location for a rearview camera.
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Last but not least, as all of you can tell, I’m all about hiding stuff, so my meth injection install was no different. I decided to mount it where my rear lights are behind the interior panels. I’m using the rear windshield reservoir for the meth. Everything fits with a little massaging of course.
 
I'm going to follow this one, it would seem you've taken the wiring to a new level. Although I'm curious about that fuse distribution block, I'm considering this exact one for part of my setup as well (not using any of the stock wiring).
Yeah, the fuse box is marine grade, it's used to add external components to boats. It will definitely suit our needs. Try eBay first, you might can get a better deal.
 
Yeah, the fuse box is marine grade, it's used to add external components to boats. It will definitely suit our needs. Try eBay first, you might can get a better deal.

I found one on Waytek Wire for $137, I'm guessing that's around what you paid? A bit expensive but I think it'll be worth it, I've been back and forth on different setups for my harness that I plan to custom make myself from the engine to the rear tail lights - nothing is to remain original. I saw that you got that and figured, well I'm not the only one trying it, might be a good thing to watch and see how it turns out; you even gave me an idea to use the ground bus as a +12V source, well played.
 
I found one on Waytek Wire for $137, I'm guessing that's around what you paid? A bit expensive but I think it'll be worth it, I've been back and forth on different setups for my harness that I plan to custom make myself from the engine to the rear tail lights - nothing is to remain original. I saw that you got that and figured, well I'm not the only one trying it, might be a good thing to watch and see how it turns out; you even gave me an idea to use the ground bus as a +12V source, well played.
yeah actually I won the fuse box on eBay for 12.87, I guess the stars was aligned because I was the only bidder Lol
 
Update: Well I have been pretty busy with my military duty, school and family, but I did manage to get some work done on Project NBA. Alright let’s begin, so when I had this engine built I decided to paint the engine block red, well it doesn’t really fit the theme of the car so, you can guess what’s next LOL. I disassembled everything, thread chased all bolt holes, stripped the old paint, and painted the block 4 coats of engine ceramic primer, 4 coats gloss black, and 3 coats of gloss clear.
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So since this was my first build, I initially made some mistakes in the beginning, like using the BSE kit with the solid stubby shaft. I took apart my oil pump and replaced that shaft with the oem stubby shaft. I also packed the pump with Vaseline to aid in priming. While I was in there I verified all the torque values and performed the oil port mod on the block. My oil pan was producing some rust so I stripped and painted the pan with vht epoxy chassis roll bar paint ( good stuff).
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I reinstalled my oil pan using Honda Bond HT, and started disassembling the cylinder head. Even though the head was rebuilt and hot tanked, it still looked dirty and unappealing. I also wanted to helicoil all the exhaust manifold studs and thread chase the remaining bolt holes. I also decided to ditch the OBX cam gears for some Fidanza gears. The adjustment marks started to wear off on the OBX gears so they had to go.
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Military, what branch? Seems you're in the same struggle with work and your car, definitely keeping up with this one. Nice progress, if you don't mind me asking what's your completion time for this?
I have 15 years in the Army, my completion goal is to be completely done in 6 months. Paint and body is my biggest set back now. I have no clue what color to get the car painted. I'm also debating color matching the bay or just painting it gloss black.
 
Gloss black is never a bad decision! If you are going to "2 tone" the body, maybe "2 tone" the block and head as well? I was gonna Panda my motor to match the body. Whatever decision you go with, I don't think it will be a bad one :sneaky::thumb:
 
I have 15 years in the Army, my completion goal is to be completely done in 6 months. Paint and body is my biggest set back now. I have no clue what color to get the car painted. I'm also debating color matching the bay or just painting it gloss black.

Well here's to a fellow service member, and 6 months sounds like a good time frame too - shooting for about a year from now on mine. As for the paint and body, are you considering doing the blasting/paint yourself or having it done at a shop? Although if you're looking for a "suggestion" as to paint I think you should consider the "panda" look - just a friendly suggestion ;).
 
Well here's to a fellow service member, and 6 months sounds like a good time frame too - shooting for about a year from now on mine. As for the paint and body, are you considering doing the blasting/paint yourself or having it done at a shop? Although if you're looking for a "suggestion" as to paint I think you should consider the "panda" look - just a friendly suggestion ;).
Thanks for all your service also. As far as paint and body, the most I would do is the engine bay itself. The rest I'm going to send out. Paint and body will absolutely be the last thing I do. I honestly was thinking about the panda look with a white pearl. I have been researching dip your car plastidip and that seems like a feasible option also.
 
Thanks for all your service also. As far as paint and body, the most I would do is the engine bay itself. The rest I'm going to send out. Paint and body will absolutely be the last thing I do. I honestly was thinking about the panda look with a white pearl. I have been researching dip your car plastidip and that seems like a feasible option also.

Makes sense to do the paint last, completely understand that; white pearl, not a bad look I'd say. I knew of someone, rather a few, that tried the plastidip, didn't come out bad and looked good. From what they said, and if you don't mind doing it, all you would have to do is occasionally re-apply after X-period of time; definitely cheaper than having it repainted but just doesn't last nearly as long.
 
Update: So since I was waiting for the paint to cure on the cylinder head, I decided to tackle the engine bay prep. As I previously stated before I’m going to perform a shave and tuck. Mind you this is my first time welding, fiberglass, bondo, etc. I essentially welded up all the nonessential bolt holes this past weekend. I borrowed a friends’ old flux core 115v welder, so the welds are not the best.
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Next was grinding down the welds, plugging the A/C and wire harness holes and stripping the bay. I used my trusty harbor freight drill, various wire wheels and sanding blocks. As for filler I chose Rage Gold and Bondo.
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I also have been looking for a durable paint product for the engine bay. Researching the hot rod forums, I ran across this product. www.masterseriescoatings.com, I am definitely interested in the gloss black AG111 series. It’s also inexpensive.
 
Nice build, gonna keep up with it. Might motivate me to document mine better.

Thanks for your continuing service. I etsed in 13 following a canceled deployment, and having the state reject my e4 waiver for warrant officer school 3 times. Didn't want to be stuck in an mos with no nco slots in the state, and I couldn't get them to send me to a school. National guard is frustrating like that however.
 
View attachment 313186 Update: Ok, back to cylinder head and engine assembly, like I posted in a previous thread, even though my cylinder head had been cleaned and hot tanked, it still looked pretty dirty. So I painted it with VHT ceramic engine paint.
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Next I started to reassemble the head, starting with the valves, Evo 8 springs and retainers, lifters, Kiggly HLA, and rockers. For all you DIY, checking your rockers is an important thing, I actually had some debris blocking the oil ports. Just make sure you use some thin wire to clean them out. After that I purchased some SS hardware from McMaster Carr to replace the worn nuts and studs. Next I installed my cams and torqued my cam caps. I actually removed my Web cams in favor for some 1994 turbo m/t cams, I would like to see what power I can make before I purchase some Kelfords.
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Next on the list was to prep and install the Felpro composite head gasket on the block. (the flash from my camera made the block look dusty). After that the head was installed on block with ARP hardware and torqued in a 30-30-60-60-60-90-90-90 sequence. Last but not least timing components was installed to spec.
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This car has really come a long way. Great work.

On a side note, the Fel-Pro PermaTorque composite gaskets should be installed clean and dry. Copper spray on a composite gasket isn't recommended by Fel-Pro...Although, I know a lot of people do it anyways for some reason. Hopefully it holds up.
 
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