Problems shifting into first gear

[initialRES]

I have searched like crazy on this but can't find any information about it.

I have a 1998 GSX with a comp 4 puck sprung disc and lightweight flywheel with pennzoil synchromesh tranny fluid.

I have recently been having problems shifting into first gear once my car warms up. When it is cold it shifts fine but as I drive it, it seems to not want to go into first gear. Usually the pedal feels a bit lighter when it doesn't want to go into gear. The problem is not constant, sometimes it goes right in, other times it won't go in without a good deal of effort. If I hold the clutch in and go to second first, it will usually go into first. I bled the entire system but it didn't fix it. The master and slave cylinders are brand new and not leaking. Other gears seem to shift fine. I am kinda stumped here so any ideas would be appreciated.

What I have been thinking is this:

Get a stainless steel clutch line - Perhaps the stock rubber one is getting hot and expanding just enough to make first gear a problem.

Try a thicker tranny fluid - I know synchromesh is very light so maybe go to redline or something

My synchro in first is gone - I hope not because it never has problems like popping out. Also because the clutch seems to get lighter I doubt it is a problem with the tranny.

Like I said, any Ideas are welcome. Thanks in advance

 

[DSMcrazy3]

When you get it in first gear and are at a stop with the clutch in(car still in 1st) does it tend to roll? if so could be the pressure plate

 

[Defiant]

Adjust your pedal free play to ½", and bleed the system again.

 

[initialRES]

The car does not roll nor do the RPMs drop at a stop so I don't think it is that.

As for adjusting it. I noticed that no matter what I do to adjust it, it just changes the travel of the clutch pedal. People say they can move the engagement point but when I adjust the pin on the master cylinder, it just moves the clutch pedal in or out. As it is set now, I do have free play at the top and the slave cylinder looks like it pushes the fork far enough. I am now thinking that maybe the master cylinder is messed up or something. Like I said, I am just stumped by this.

 

[ddavisaf]

Sounds like it's getting to hot. It's been so long since I've owned a manual though.

It feels 'lighter' when the car warms up you said. By warms up to you mean you crush it while it's cold then when the motors been working really hard it's lighter. Or do you mean normal driving or idle warm up time?

 

[kilries]

sorry to ask this but you said "The car does not roll nor do the RPMs drop at a stop" what does this part of it mean "RPMs drop at a stop"

thanks for any information

 

[initialRES]

I just meant that when sitting at a stop with my foot on the brake (so the car can't roll), the engine RPM doesn't drop. Basically, if the clutch was still engaged, it would most likely affect the idle because it would be trying to move forward but can't.

And as for the heating up, it gets lighter as it warms up normally. I can drive it very soft and it will begin to change pressure when the car gets to normal operating temperature. This happens whether I drive the car soft or hard. I was also thinking it could be my throwout bearing but it is not making any strange noises so I don't know.

 

[Defiant]

I just meant that when sitting at a stop with my foot on the brake (so the car can't roll), the engine RPM doesn't drop. Basically, if the clutch was still engaged, it would most likely affect the idle because it would be trying to move forward but can't.

At a stop, push in the clutch, biff 5th (to stop the transmission's guts), and shift into reverse. Keep the clutch in. Shift back to neutral, give it a moment, then try to shift again into reverse without using 5th first. You may hear just a bit of a crunch as the trans is spooled by general lube friction, but anything serious may mean you're not fully-disengaging the clutch. This can be due to pedal (master cylinder) adjustment, air in the system, failing clutch system seals in either cylinder, or a bent clutch fork.

 

[initialRES]

I'm not sure what "biff" means but I found out:

If I shift into fifth, then try to go straight to reverse, I am totally locked out. If I go back to neutral and then reverse it will go. If I go almost into fifth, then it will go into reverse. If I go to fourth, then reverse it will go right in. All this happens with no grinding. Now, most of this was done when the motor was warm but the clutch wasn't as bad as it has been before. I will drive it around a bit more tonight and see if anything changes.

Do you think it could be the tranny fluid? My car started making a slight clicking sound from the drivers side about 1.5 weeks ago. It happens only sometimes when I try to start from a dead stop. I know the tranny isn't over there so I chalked it up to a failing wheel bearing (I checked the tie rods, they are good). Anyway, I thought I would just throw that in and see if maybe it helped.

 

[initialRES]

well last night was kinda cool and I drove the car about 40 miles (mostly on the highway, but plenty through stop lights too.) I found that it did not lock me out of gear but it did get notchier. I'm wondering if it could be something like tranny fluid that would be affected more in the 95 degree heat of the day, but not so much when it is 70 or so at night. I just have no idea.

 

[oldman]

The problem is that you're not generating enough pressure in the system after the fluid heats up, this is what I would do.

1. Check the fluid level, leaks at master cylinder, slave cylinder and the rubber clutch line. make sure you pull back the boot on the slave cylinder when checking.

2. Replace that rubber clutch line like you have planed, worn out rubber line will expand under pressure.

3. Bleed the system again like defiant had suggested, hell flush the system while you're at it. Make sure you use proper bleeding method like described here .

If problem still persists after this, you still have to consider the fact that both master and slave can be on it's way out without any signs of leakage yet causing pressure drop. Good luck.