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problem with idle

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joshjones84

Probationary Member
11
0
Dec 31, 2009
somewhere, Indiana
hi everyone. I'm new here. I am going to trade a kid my 93 honda accord for his 95 eagle talon tsi. on of the problems with it is when you start it up it idles up to 2,100 RPM. it's an automatic so it makes a clunk nose when you put it into drive. I don't know if I should trade him or if he's just hiding something from me. does anyone know what I should look for? or what it might be? thank you.
 
Usually idle surge is caused by vaccuum leaks. What you can look for is rust. Check the turbo for shaft play. Check compression, and boost leaks. Get somebody who knows turbo cars to look at it. This guy seems shady. Why would someone trade a turbo DSM for an older accord? Good luck. If i were you, id trade it. Also listen for any noises from the motor. What seems like lifter tick can turn into rod knock so i heard.
 
Usually idle surge is caused by vaccuum leaks. What you can look for is rust. Check the turbo for shaft play. Check compression, and boost leaks. Get somebody who knows turbo cars to look at it. This guy seems shady. Why would someone trade a turbo DSM for an older accord? Good luck. If i were you, id trade it. Also listen for any noises from the motor. What seems like lifter tick can turn into rod knock so i heard.

for one thing the accord has 243 miles on a new engine .everything is ready for turbo set up on it. I'd would handle 8 pounds just fine. everything in new on the car. you name it, it's new. here's the craigslisting if you want to see it.

93 Honda Accord NEW ENGINE!!!

the engine was fine.i didn't here any knocks. I drove it and it pulled hard. everything in it was stock. how would I look for turbo shaft play? and how would i look for boost leaks? thanks.
 
take the intake off and stick your fingers in the turbo (car off would be a good idea! LOL) give the wheel a little tug and from side to side and see if it moves around alot! For the clunk when putting it in gear it could be a few things, clutch not engaging right or something. +1 for NiKKUH_BOViCE about checking for rust. Look to see if its leaking oil when the car is running and off, make sure there is no smoking coming from the exhaust/motor during and after boosting. Also the vaccum leaks can cause idle problems but so can the BIS(Bass Idle Screw), TPS and Idle Air Control motor.
 
I dont know if I could trust the owner of a turbo car who cannot spell english words correctly, or is careless enough not to make his own car's ad neat. It looks pretty clean, and if it was manual it would be worth alot more. I would try to get the price down a little bit. 91TSIallday was correct about the shaft play, its easy to do. Boost leak is a harder thing to do and its even harder to find the leak. Search the site on how to do a boost leak test. This site has LOTS of great information. You might need someone turbosmart to do it. Dont forget compression, and look at the underside of the car. Underside aways looks f'ed up on all cars, But you can tell if the car will take you where you need to go, or your ass will break through the floor on the interstate.
 
high idle usualy is from vaccum leak chack that check rust and turbo shaft play make sure its a good trade take your time inspecting it if you dont know that much about cars take someone with you who does u dont wanna be stuck with a piece of shit.
 
take the intake off and stick your fingers in the turbo (car off would be a good idea! LOL) give the wheel a little tug and from side to side and see if it moves around alot! For the clunk when putting it in gear it could be a few things, clutch not engaging right or something. +1 for NiKKUH_BOViCE about checking for rust. Look to see if its leaking oil when the car is running and off, make sure there is no smoking coming from the exhaust/motor during and after boosting. Also the vaccum leaks can cause idle problems but so can the BIS(Bass Idle Screw), TPS and Idle Air Control motor.

where is the BIS and idle air control motor located? they sell idle air control valves at auto zone. is that the same thing as the motor? sorry for the dumb questions.

wouldn't the CEL come on if there was a sensor going bad or a leak?
 
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